furnace sail switch

[Rossue]

Really, the thermostat is wireless? Replacement same it would seem? If true, I would want a wire run anyway during build.

[cpaharley2008]

If you are blaming the thermostat, it is wired to both your furnace and overhead a/c.

[Mike Lewis]

Having an older trailer should not give one comfort over the possibility of furnace problems. The sail switch in my 2014 Escape 21 failed during a long trip in 2015. I took it to four different RV shops before someone could (1) correctly diagnose the problem and (2) order the correct part.

Now the furnace is failing to fire intermittently again, and I guess I'll need to have it serviced before the next long trip. If an air filter behind the furnace grill (on the inside) will help prevent this problem, then I'll try that. But it's unclear to me so far in this thread if it would help. I have the Dometic 8012-II furnace.

[Rossue]

Mike- your furnace is the same as mine and located under driver's side dinette bench. I would try the blast of compressed air fix for this model first.

[Mike Lewis]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Mike- your furnace is the same as mine and located under driver's side dinette bench. I would try the blast of compressed air fix for this model first.

Okay, I will; thanks. Do you think a filter of some kind behind the furnace's front panel would keep the sail switch from getting dirty again? Or is the switch on our furnace controlled by air coming in from the outside?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Tam2004

I honestly feel like some are lemons - and couldn't that have something to do with the fact the the thermostat is not wired to the furnace - like in the "old days"? The message is flying through the air and there must be software to provide instructions? Is this a nutty idea?

The thermostat doesn't do anything other than tell the furnace whether or not heat is needed. All of the control of sequence of steps to start and run (including checking the sail switch status) is handled by the control board within the furnace, so problems communicating with the thermostat seems like an unlikely source of problems to me.

[Upfisk]

We had the dreaded sail switch failure yesterday. It was noon and fairly cool at Milo McIver state park near Estacada, OR. Watched Reace's video and headed out with the Escape screw driver and an everything Gerber plyers kit. In about 10 minutes the switch was pulled and our cat is fully responsible for the failure. It was about 1/3 covered with grey to black short cat hair. After cleaning the switch had a satisfying motion side to side. Reinstalling was slightly more difficult as you have to turn the switch several directions to slip it back in.

We are sure glad we have a late Sept 2018 build with the external door. Total time from start to finish was 30 minutes for cleaning and reassembly. We likely would want to sell the trailer if we had to pull the furnace to replace the sail switch.

We have a cabinet door failure and plan to visit ETC before the rally to get that warranty item fixed, now we'll add a spare sail switch to our purchase.

[Tam2004]

If you mean hard wired - it isn't - it sends a "radio" signal. But, you are correct, both the air conditioner and the furnace are a "unit". I always am startled when I forget to put the air conditioner's fan on auto. That causes havoc.

[RoryDoss24]

Our problem is the sail switch, for dometic furnace, is flat. When the blower kicks on its hit or miss on whether the switch will close or lean forward. I have had to bend it where it looks like an airplane wing, so that it will catch air and close the switch. But over time it flattens out and has to be reshaped. So far I have had to do this 6 times this winter in freezing weather, really frustrating to say the least.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by RoryDoss24

Our problem is the sail switch, for dometic furnace, is flat. When the blower kicks on its hit or miss on whether the switch will close or lean forward. I have had to bend it where it looks like an airplane wing, so that it will catch air and close the switch. But over time it flattens out and has to be reshaped. So far I have had to do this 6 times this winter in freezing weather, really frustrating to say the least.

Metal weakens when it is bent - maybe after all that bending, it's time for a new switch?

[Tam2004]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Metal weakens when it is bent - maybe after all that bending, it's time for a new switch?

As an intense sufferer with the Sail switch problem right after we picked up the Escape - I learned there is a higher quality Sail switch you can buy. Though I don't remember the name of it - pretty easy to research. We had such severe problems that Dometic gave us a replacement furnace and it has worked perfectly over the past 2 years.

[brucephess]

Just picked up our new 19 here in Alaska. Our fist night with temperatures in the lower 30's the furnace stopped working. It made for a uncomfortable night and a bad first impression. Did the research and determined the problem is the sail switch. There was no dirt, dust or anything interfering with the switch operation. When I pull the switch out and manually operate the switch I can get the furnace to work however when I reinstall the switch it will not operate. It seems there is not enough air pressure to close the switch. Anybody have any ideas? The battery is charged.

[brucephess]

After fiddling with the sail switch I did what someone else suggested in an earlier post. I put a very slight bend in the paddle and now the switch is closing. We shall see if this is a long term solution.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by brucephess

Just picked up our new 19 here in Alaska. Our fist night with temperatures in the lower 30's the furnace stopped working. It made for a uncomfortable night and a bad first impression. Did the research and determined the problem is the sail switch. There was no dirt, dust or anything interfering with the switch operation. When I pull the switch out and manually operate the switch I can get the furnace to work however when I reinstall the switch it will not operate. It seems there is not enough air pressure to close the switch. Anybody have any ideas? The battery is charged.

Can you take the front grille off and stretch the flex duct as straight as possible and then try it? Taking the grille off reduces the resistance on the supply and return. The duct should really be hard sheetmetal.

[MasterRVTech]

I've read this entire post, and think it's time to give out some accurate information. The problem with Dometic sticking sail switches can be caused by pet hair accumulating on the paddle, true, however the real problem is that the Dometic furnace fan can cause a "swirling" airflow in the furnace, and if the swirl forms just the right way, the sail switch can be sucked further closed instead of being blown open, when this airflow swirl occurs, the sail switch is "sucked" further closed and it sticks that way. Dometic recognized this issue and in January 2020 came out with a re-designed sail switch kit to correct the issue. The re-designed kit is for the "A" or "DF" models. There are 2 kits, depending on the size and model of the individual furnace, the Dometic part numbers are 33081 and 33082. The kit includes a re-designed sail switch AND a redesigned mounting bracket. The re-design will not allow the sail switch to be sucked closed and stick. As to pet hair, dust bunnies etc., that is just cleaning and maintenance. I have personally diagnosed hundreds of Dometic furnaces with the old style design sail switches stuck. Yes, when you do have the exterior door, the sail switch replacement takes less than 10 minutes. Rather than trying out homegrown remedies, such as bending the switches, please just get the re-designed sail switch kits and make the correct repair to the furnace. PS, the replacement bracket MUST be used, even though it looks really similar to the original bracket, or the re-designed switch itself will stick in the open position.
If you are out camping and the the switch sticks (before you get the re-designed switch) you can turn on the thermostat and when the fan starts up, use your hand to bang very hard and rapidly on the exterior black door, next to the silver vent, and in most cases, this heavy vibration will cause the stuck switch to pop free, the furnace will then lite up. You may have to go back inside and reset the thermostat and bang again if the fan stops prior to the switch popping free, which is a preset 30 seconds. I hope this will help all of you with the Dometic stuck sail switch issue. PS, there is a 2 year warranty on these furnaces, and Dometic is well aware of the issue and ACTUALLY DO have a RE-DESIGNED KIT to cure the issue.

[oldwave]

2017 escape 21, do you know which kit this one needs ?

[Centex]

Just FYI / FWIW these Panther RV Products pages list the compatible furnace models and serial number range for each of the replacement sail switch PN's mentioned by MasterRVTech in post #95

Dometic™ Atwood 33081 OEM RV Furnace Air Flow Sail Switch - AFS Series

Dometic™ Atwood 33082 Furnace Sail Switch With Bracket Upgrade Kit

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Centex

Just FYI / FWIW these Panther RV Products pages list the compatible furnace models and serial number range for each of the replacement sail switch PN's mentioned by MasterRVTech in post #95

Dometic™ Atwood 33081 OEM RV Furnace Air Flow Sail Switch - AFS Series:

Dometic™ Atwood 33082 Furnace Sail Switch With Bracket Upgrade Kit

Thanks, I have the old style install with no access port, so I guess I have to pull it to find out the serial number, I doubt it it was recorded on the docs.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by oldwave

... I guess I have to pull it to find out the serial number, I doubt it it was recorded on the docs.

Thanks for the reminder, now added to my 'upon delivery Do List" ...

One thing I've realized from this forum - it'll likely be worth the effort in the long run to, promptly upon getting my new Escape, do whatever it takes to find, photograph, and archive every model and serial number placard I can find on every component from the axles to the Maxfan / rear bumper to hitch.

All too often I read of folks having questions about replacement parts and service tips that are dependent on that info, and more than a few cases where the labels have been rendered unreadable or lost to the ravages of time.

If ETI provides some of 'em that's swell, I'll run with the 'trust but verify' philosophy

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Centex

Thanks for the reminder, now added to my 'upon delivery Do List" ...

One thing I've realized from this forum - it'll likely be worth the effort in the long run to, promptly upon getting my new Escape, do whatever it takes to find, photograph, and archive every model and serial number placard I can find on every component from the axles to the Maxfan / rear bumper to hitch.

All too often I read of folks having questions about replacement parts and service tips that are dependent on that info, and more than a few cases where the labels have been rendered unreadable by the ravages of time.

If ETI provides some of 'em that's swell, I'll run with the 'trust but verify' philosophy

Right, I have had to replace a hot water heater control panel early on, etc.