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10-01-2019, 12:18 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Trailer: 2020 Escape 17B "Voyager"
Posts: 2,661
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Furnace won't light and possible wasp problem
2011.
The furnace won't light. It comes on, blows, I hear the ignitor trying to go, then a blinking red light (under the cover, cover off) comes on and it stops.
I can't see where the ignitor is from inside, so looked outside to see what vents are there, I can see what I think is the propane vent above the heater, some vent over the fridge, and fridge access door. (Fridge is to the right of the heater in the 2011 Escape 15A).
I see a wasp crawling into that vent.
First question- possible nest in fridge vent. It has lots of screws to remove to get to the cover but it is possible there is a wasp's nest in there. (I think it is a yellow jacket but I'm not that good at IDs). I don't dare remove it in the daylight as obviously now the wasp or hornet or bee is active. We had seen activity in that general area but hadn't found the nest.
Second question-The furnace worked two weeks ago. Luckily I decided I should warm up the trailer with electric plugged in (but my mom is borrowing my space heater) so tried it before leaving for a camping trip today. What might be wrong and how can I fix it?
I have a Mr. Buddy heater I could take along and use (I would turn it off at night as I do the propane one.) So trip may be on unless I'm concerned about wasps being in that vent and somehow getting into the trailer.
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10-01-2019, 12:25 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Trailer: 2020 Escape 17B "Voyager"
Posts: 2,661
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And one more question- if it is a wasp's nest, can I put some window screening under that cover without it interfering with function? (Also under the other cover while I'm at it!)
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10-01-2019, 12:42 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 11,023
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THIS is your furnace vent Bobbie.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward
2014 Escape 5.0TA
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10-01-2019, 12:46 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Trailer: 2020 Escape 17B "Voyager"
Posts: 2,661
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That's what I thought. If there is a yellow jacket nest in the fridge vent is that going to cause short-term problems?
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10-01-2019, 12:46 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,234
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Maybe cut a piece of clear plastic visqueen big enough to cover the vent. Tape it over the vent all four edges. Cut a small slit at the bottom and jus before dark when they’ve all returned for the day, put the hornet spray nozzle in the slit and give them a shot. Let it set overnight. Observe next day. Thump it a couple times to see if you can see or hear any. If not slowly remove plastic and tape and vent cover. Let everything air outFor a couple hours before attempting to relight or further examination of the internal workings. That’s what I would do. Your results may be different from mine. Remember on hornets that they are
Unionized and if you mess with one, you have them all.
Iowa Dave
__________________
Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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10-01-2019, 12:49 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Trailer: 2020 Escape 17B "Voyager"
Posts: 2,661
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That's a good idea.
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10-01-2019, 12:54 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbie54
That's what I thought. If there is a yellow jacket nest in the fridge vent is that going to cause short-term problems?
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The upper white vent with all the screws is for the refrigerator. It vents your heat from the condenser coil and combustion gases from the flue. The bee looks like a yellow jacket. It is highly unlikely that there is any harm that will be caused by the bees. Probably just a small nest in there that needs to be taken care of.
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10-01-2019, 01:04 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Trailer: 2020 Escape 17B "Voyager"
Posts: 2,661
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OK- so the vent is the fridge, round vent is heater, how do I get to the back of the heater and what might be wrong?
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10-01-2019, 01:44 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,123
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Based on the year of your trailer you should have the Atwood 8012-II furnace. You mentioned a blinking light in your first post. That is on the control board which you should be able to see from the front with the cover off as you indicate. What is the pattern of the blinking? Does it correspond to any of the patterns on the attached chart.
It was just working two weeks ago so I would start simple. I've heard that some compressed air blown into the wheel area can help dislodge a dust ball that might hang up the sail switch. Make sure your propane line is clear of air too. This is easily done by lighting and running the stove for a minute.
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10-01-2019, 02:12 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Trailer: 2020 Escape 17B "Voyager"
Posts: 2,661
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What do you mean, "into the wheel area?"
The light was flashing (I think) but can't recall so when I take the cover off again I'll check it out.
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10-01-2019, 03:01 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbie54
And one more question- if it is a wasp's nest, can I put some window screening under that cover without it interfering with function? (Also under the other cover while I'm at it!)
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I did that on my refer and water heater vents in the past, make sure it is metal and not plastic screen.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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10-01-2019, 03:11 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbie54
What do you mean, "into the wheel area?"
The light was flashing (I think) but can't recall so when I take the cover off again I'll check it out.
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By wheel area I mean the squirrel cage fan wheel that blows the air into the cabin. The sail switch is down in that compartment. A good blast into the large opening at the front of the furnace could do the trick. I'm not 100% positive as I've never done it personally. I've heard that it has been done or at least suggested by Tammy at ETI years ago. This thread may help.
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...html#post96415
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10-01-2019, 06:49 PM
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#13
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,119
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on my 2014 21, I had to remove the furnace to access the squirrel cage area. when I removed the sail switch, there was a little dust bunny of some sort of poly insulation fiber, probably left over from manufacturing. I removed this, and also vacuumed out any other debris in the compartment the heater is installed on. putting the heater back on, and getting the vent properly aligned was tricky, and required someone on the outside to help by leaning on the exhaust plate to prevent it from popping off the trailer.
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10-01-2019, 07:12 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Trailer: 2020 Escape 17B "Voyager"
Posts: 2,661
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And after a 30 minute tow to our campsite- it works! I came equipped with the Mr. Buddy but thought to try the furnace first and it came right on.
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10-01-2019, 10:54 PM
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#15
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 - "Felicity"
Posts: 2,945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbie54
And after a 30 minute tow to our campsite- it works! I came equipped with the Mr. Buddy but thought to try the furnace first and it came right on.
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In the Navy, we used to call repairs like that the "FM" fix..... as in F-ing Magic. Well done!
__________________
Charlie Y
Need custom storage to your design? Don't drill holes!
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