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Old 10-17-2019, 09:10 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Yes, once you turn on the switch, the pads come on at 30 degrees and off at 40 degrees, automatically. There is a switch under the bed by the pump, looks like the silver disconnect switch under the front dinette.

Found it - but it is under the front settee on the drivers side. Our 19 has the raised U-shaped dinette. I do recall seeing the switch after I located it again. I wondered if it was for the heaters. I will label it now so there is no guessing.

Thanks again, Jim.


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Old 10-17-2019, 01:39 PM   #22
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Thanks, Jim and Steve.


Steve, it's where you suggested. I have an on/off label and it's in the on position, probably forever.
You may want to turn that switch off if your tanks are empty.
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Old 10-17-2019, 01:42 PM   #23
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suggestion for those Escape owners with heated pads, Escape 21, Escape 19 and Escape 17. I suggest you install a red LED indicator light to prevent you leaving the pads on inadvertently. If I recall, I installed mine under the E19 bed and ran the light to the outside bed compartment. I had trouble finding a ground for the LED to operate but eventually did.
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Old 10-17-2019, 01:55 PM   #24
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Go to post #83 here in this 2012 thread where I show the indicator light install
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...-a-1657-5.html
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Old 10-17-2019, 04:29 PM   #25
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The tank switches on my 21 look exactly the same as the battery switch. bad news that!
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Old 10-17-2019, 10:51 PM   #26
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Heated Tanks

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Originally Posted by 75thRanger View Post
The tank switches on my 21 look exactly the same as the battery switch. bad news that!


We repurposed our tank heater switch for our bed ventilation fans then replaced tank switch with one with a pilot light.
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Old 10-18-2019, 12:53 AM   #27
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We have heated tanks but find them to be unhelpful as the dump valves are outside the heated space. Even if you keep the contents of the tank's liquid, they will be trapped behind the frozen valves.
This is useful information for sure.
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Old 10-18-2019, 07:13 AM   #28
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We repurposed our tank heater switch for our bed ventilation fans then replaced tank switch with one with a pilot light.
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I've read many posts about condensation problems in our Escapes. Is that why you installed bed fans? Are they actually under the bed? Are they vented somewhere or just sort of move air around?

I read a post about some sort of material one could put under the bed for condensation. I can't remember the name of the product but I bookmarked it.

I like cool weather camping so this is something I'm going to have to look at.


I have a GE de-humidifier I got for my Holiday Rambler. Hard to believe the water that thing pulls out of the air.
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Old 10-18-2019, 07:16 AM   #29
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Hypervent was the name and there are now alternatives. On edit. here is an alternative
cost about $100 for a queen https://www.mattressinsider.com/matt...revention.html. What is important is air around the outside mattress perimeter that touches the outside walls as well as underneath.
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Old 10-18-2019, 07:23 AM   #30
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Quote:
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I've read many posts about condensation problems in our Escapes. Is that why you installed bed fans? Are they actually under the bed? Are they vented somewhere or just sort of move air around?

I read a post about some sort of material one could put under the bed for condensation. I can't remember the name of the product but I bookmarked it.

I like cool weather camping so this is something I'm going to have to look at.


I installed Hypervent under our mattress and around the exterior perimeter to allow air circulation, then added two fans that draw air around and under the mattress then into the space under the bed where I installed a powered dehumidifier - all to help with condensation/mold/mildew prevention, primarily in cold/winter conditions.

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Old 10-19-2019, 02:27 AM   #31
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I have the heated tanks and am very glad I do, but I also made significant upgrades to the batteries and solar (500Ah and 360W) that mitigate the power draw pretty well. I've done a fair bit of cold-weather camping (down to about 2F) without major issues. Any colder would probably be bad, but certainly in the 10-20F range things work smoothly.
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Old 10-19-2019, 08:03 AM   #32
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I have the heated tanks and am very glad I do, but I also made significant upgrades to the batteries and solar (500Ah and 360W) that mitigate the power draw pretty well. I've done a fair bit of cold-weather camping (down to about 2F) without major issues. Any colder would probably be bad, but certainly in the 10-20F range things work smoothly.
Elliott: Have you had any issues with the tank outlet piping freezing as others have stated can still be an issue even with the tank heating pads?
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Old 10-19-2019, 08:15 AM   #33
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Lets be clear, the heated pads are only on the fresh water and grey water tanks, your black tank is inside and heated by the furnace. Your black and grey outlets outside are not heated. But that said, your black tank contents will be heated and that outlet should function. The grey tank dump may freeze without the pads. So, if you make provision for the grey waste or limit your use you should not have any problems, with or without the pads.
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Old 10-19-2019, 09:23 AM   #34
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Yeah, I've definitely had some outlet freezing issues. The first time I hit really cold weather, I just dumped some windshield washer antifreeze (cheap and sold at truck stops) into the black and grey tanks. That worked quite well. The next time, I didn't do anything and got a little freezing at the dump valves. Not enough to cause damage, but enough to stop things up. Luckily the grey tank was almost empty, so running hot water into it freed it up and then I used hot water in the hose to thaw the black valve. I'd definitely suggest the antifreeze route if going below about 10-15F overnight.
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Old 10-19-2019, 09:28 AM   #35
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Yeah, I've definitely had some outlet freezing issues. The first time I hit really cold weather, I just dumped some windshield washer antifreeze (cheap and sold at truck stops) into the black and grey tanks. That worked quite well. The next time, I didn't do anything and got a little freezing at the dump valves. Not enough to cause damage, but enough to stop things up. Luckily the grey tank was almost empty, so running hot water into it freed it up and then I used hot water in the hose to thaw the black valve. I'd definitely suggest the antifreeze route if going below about 10-15F overnight.

Interesting...that’s another good argument for the driver side exterior shower: thawing frozen dump valves. Hope to never need to do so, but that’s a good trick to remember.
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Old 10-19-2019, 10:18 AM   #36
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But that said, your black tank contents will be heated and that outlet should function.
Not at 2F! The tank is in the heated space but the outlet piping from where it leaves the trailer to the dump valve is exposed to cold ambient air.
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Old 10-19-2019, 11:04 AM   #37
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Not at 2F! The tank is in the heated space but the outlet piping from where it leaves the trailer to the dump valve is exposed to cold ambient air.
In our 21 the black tank , black tank drain piping , water heater and the fresh water lines to the bathroom are in the enclosed space under the bed . The mattress along with sheets , a blanket and comforter sit on top of the mattress and act as an insulating barrier so how much heat from the trailer actually enters the area ?
The main area of the trailer may be heated to well above freezing but that’s no guarantee that the area below the bed is above freezing
I remember from years ago that the plumbing lines under our kitchen sink would freeze in cold weather . When it got really cold we would open the cabinet doors and place a milk house heater under the sink so the plumbing wouldn’t freeze
I would believe at some point even with the heating pads that the gray and fresh water tank could still freeze
The water lines to my home are buried 10 feet down to prevent freezing and we cover our septic drain field in the winter .
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Old 10-19-2019, 11:38 AM   #38
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I'm sure someone will figure out a way to measure the contents temperature....
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Old 10-19-2019, 11:39 AM   #39
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I'm sure someone will figure out a way to measure the contents temperature....


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Old 10-19-2019, 11:40 AM   #40
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We just got back yesterday from a trip which started on September 11. It took us to Victoria, BC through central Washington to Pullman, down the 95 in Idaho to Boise, through central Oregon to the Bend area and up the 97 home. During the trip we had a couple of cold fronts move in for a number of days during which saw temps drop to minus 10 C. We have foam insulation underneath, I always travel with my fresh water tank as full as possible because we mostly dry camp and used our fresh water and grey and black tanks as normal. We camped mostly with no hookups in elevations up to 8,000 ft. and never once had a problem using the on board water system as we would in the summer. We dumped during the day when the temps got above freezing and again never had a problem. I don't use any chemicals in the tanks in the shoulder season and the bacteria in the tanks will raise the freezing temp. for less problems dumping. We camped at Bryce Canyon this past March with temps going down to minus 12, again with no problems and again with the fresh water tank full.

I think people over think this, just because it goes down below freezing for 6 to 8 hours at night your water system is not going to freeze solid in that time, or even freeze at all especially if the trailer is heated. We travel the west from March to November and I've never once thought about draining the tanks to travel, the residual heat in the trailer and the warmer temps in the day will keep all the fluids fluid!

If we happen to be at a hookup site during a freezing night before I go to bed I just turn the water off, undo the hose and drain it and then hook it back up without turning on the water. In the morning I just have to go outside and turn the water on to use it for the day.
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