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Old 04-23-2019, 06:39 PM   #1
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Help Needed - Fridge Fuse?

Ok, I like to say that I know just enough about a variety of things to be dangerous, and I need some help sorting out this one.

While installing my new wired fridge fan I think I shorted the 12V positive to the bracket that holds the terminal block for the fridge. I know I should disconnect the 12V when I do stuff like this but every time I just tell myself that I’ll be careful, but almost every time I end up replacing a 15A fuse. I have a whole box of them.

So I get it all hooked up, and no 12V power to fridge. But when I check the WFCO, every 15A and 20A fuse is good. I pulled every one, visually checked then checked them for continuity ye old multimeter.

So...help. Where do I check next?
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Old 04-23-2019, 07:06 PM   #2
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There is an in line fuse back there, if my memory serves me right...
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Old 04-23-2019, 07:11 PM   #3
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Here is a picture of my E19 fuse in the rear
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File Type: jpg IMG_1119.jpg (179.5 KB, 41 views)
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Old 04-23-2019, 07:24 PM   #4
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This may help.
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File Type: jpg frigTop.jpg (98.3 KB, 37 views)
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Old 04-23-2019, 07:31 PM   #5
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So, you may have both, one in the rear and one in the front?
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Old 04-23-2019, 08:31 PM   #6
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I found a 1A and a 30A fuse in the back of the refer. They’re both good. I don’t think the problem lies with the refer, however. I don’t seem to have 12V going to the refer itself, measured at the terminal block. Which is why it seems like it’s a WFCO fuse situation. My Fluke shows 0.1V at the terminal block, which is also consistent with a blown WFCO fuse.

Funny thing though. I pulled four 15A fuses and one 20A fuse at the WFCO to check them, but when empty, only two of the 15A slots illuminated the red lights that normally show when you have a blown fuse. What?
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Old 04-23-2019, 08:54 PM   #7
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Bummer & hope you find an easy fix quick. Gotta say thanks though for reminding me to not fix what ain't broke. Just spent all day doing maintenance items: r & r stabilizers as they creak and such. Paint them plus r & r step to paint also along with waste tube & rear bumper. All day! I have that dual fan and was going to install that, yet now am not. I still remember reversing the flex tube covering the burner down the flue from outside mod that did more harm than good.
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Old 04-23-2019, 09:09 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Bummer & hope you find an easy fix quick. Gotta say thanks though for reminding me to not fix what ain't broke. Just spent all day doing maintenance items: r & r stabilizers as they creak and such. Paint them plus r & r step to paint also along with waste tube & rear bumper. All day! I have that dual fan and was going to install that, yet now am not. I still remember reversing the flex tube covering the burner down the flue from outside mod that did more harm than good.

I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the fan, Ross. Just dingbat me failing to shut off the DC before tinkering and now causing a problem somewhere else. Just not sure where, or what to check next.
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Old 04-23-2019, 09:12 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by sclifrickson View Post
Funny thing though. I pulled four 15A fuses and one 20A fuse at the WFCO to check them, but when empty, only two of the 15A slots illuminated the red lights that normally show when you have a blown fuse. What?
The blown fuse indicators probably work by bypassing the fuse with an LED and resistor. The resistance is so high that little current will flow, but for some current to light the LED there must be a load on the circuit... meaning that something is turned on. If there's nothing connected to the circuit (or everything connected to it is completely off), then there's nowhere for current to flow and the LED won't light.

No guarantee, but that may be what is going on.
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Old 04-23-2019, 09:14 PM   #10
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Scott- isn't there a reset button for fridge?
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