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Old 05-27-2014, 11:32 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by ChuckS View Post
The anode rod is used in steel water tanks. The 2010 Escape 19 I owned did not have a anode rod. They must have changed the type of water heater.
Chuck
Our 19 is a 2012 so I'm not sure if/when the change to aluminum tanks happened. Our anode has much more "meat", as Jim B. calls it, than the one in the photo so I guess we're ok for the time being.

Doug
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Old 11-17-2015, 07:09 PM   #12
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Here's a photo of my 14 month old(from pickup) anode. Does it make sense to just go ahead and replace it as the cost is less than $15? From one online review it seems they can get to the point of becoming hard to remove. Mine did have signs of rust beginning on the outside most threads & on the teflon tape. We have hard water here and have spent a bit of time in AZ & UT where they have pretty hard water as well.
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Old 11-17-2015, 07:13 PM   #13
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Just clean off the old teflon tape and re-wrap, reinstall. Looks fine to me.
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File Type: jpg Anode and teflon.jpg (146.4 KB, 11 views)
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Old 11-17-2015, 07:15 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Here's a photo of my 14 month old(from pickup) anode. Does it make sense to just go ahead and replace it as the cost is less than $15? From one online review it seems they can get to the point of becoming hard to remove. Mine did have signs of rust beginning on the outside most threads & on the teflon tape. We have hard water here and have spent a bit of time in AZ & UT where they have pretty hard water as well.
You could remove that one and keep as a spare. That should last a little longer for when you suddenly need one and don't have a new one handy.
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Old 11-17-2015, 07:32 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Here's a photo of my 14 month old(from pickup) anode. Does it make sense to just go ahead and replace it as the cost is less than $15? From one online review it seems they can get to the point of becoming hard to remove. Mine did have signs of rust beginning on the outside most threads & on the teflon tape. We have hard water here and have spent a bit of time in AZ & UT where they have pretty hard water as well.
You might have 25% wear, so it is good for another couple years anyway, but still good to check annually regardless of winterizing. Sure it is only $15, but if you changed it every year, instead of every 4 years, these kind of costs add up. This one will work just as good as a new one.
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Old 11-17-2015, 08:15 PM   #16
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My 2008 has a anode. So, when did they change from what to what? I'm confused.
Anyway, here is a picture of an anode that needs replacement. I've not replaced mine yet, but we have soft water on the west coast. If you live in an area with hard water, you may have to replace the anode much sooner.
Actually, soft water is more aggressive with anodes than is hard water. Soft water can chew up a magnesium anode in short order. Soft water is also more aggressive on copper or galvanized pipes. There are advantages as well as disadvantages to having soft water.
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Old 11-17-2015, 08:19 PM   #17
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Seems to me that Baglo's 8-year old anode is in about the same condition as my barely year-old one. In any event I agree that it still has life left to it. Interesting to hear my kids go on about vendors wanting to completely junk this or that vs. fixing the just the root issue.
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Old 11-18-2015, 11:16 AM   #18
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The wear on the anode is not predictable unless you use the same water source all the time. I checked mine after the first year & it looked like Glenn's. Pulled it after the third year (I spent the 2nd year in the southwest & didn't winterize) and all that was left was the wire. I suggest checking it every year...
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Old 11-18-2015, 11:19 AM   #19
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Which you would do if you winterize your unit and drain the water heater. Good idea...
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Old 11-20-2015, 02:59 PM   #20
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Just clean off the old teflon tape and re-wrap, reinstall. Looks fine to me.
I see that you have several threads of teflon tape showing(probably most of what was wrapped on?). When first removing the anode, the nut head was flush against the tank. Due to deposits on the tank's threads it doesn't want to go back in all the way. The gunk on the threads is pretty tough; anyone have success using anything to safely remove? Does it matter the rod doesn't snug down as originally as long as it doesn't leak?

In one search it shows someone putting six gallons of vinegar in the tank and letting it sit overnight. Something tells me that is probably overkill, yet that is not unlike the instructions for my annual maintenance for an on-demand water heater I have in a room over my garage.
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