How do you Prime the Water Pump

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

To make you feel better, I just got a call from Toyota that my water pump is leaking and needs replacement. Parts and labour come to $1,010.78.

For that amount, I think I would change it myself. Water pumps are generally not that expensive. It must be "buried" and they are charging you a lot of labor.

[gbaglo]

To fill the water heater, I connect to city water and open pressure relief valve ( top, centre of pic ) until water comes spurting out for a while. Allows air to be expelled and is visual indicator that it is full.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Mucram

Thanks Carl. I'm @ home & filled fresh water tank. How does the hot water tank get filled?

Hook it up to city water, turn the water on, and open the hot water faucet. When it stops spitting and coughing and you have a good stream, the hot water tank will be filled. Disconnect city water and try the pump again.

[Mucram]

Thanks Glen. Will try that. Still doesn't explain why cold not flowing with full tank either. Might I have a faulty pump?

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

To fill the water heater, I connect to city water and open pressure relief valve ( top, centre of pic ) until water comes spurting out for a while. Allows air to be expelled and is visual indicator that it is full.

Glenn, I have had pressure relief valves on water heaters start to leak if they were repeatedly operated, necessitating replacement. Perhaps you have never had this happen, but I always open the hot water faucet whether filling or draining rather than the relief valve.

[gbaglo]

My trailer is eight years old so not sure about my advice here.
If somehow, debris got into the faucet aerator, the water pump won't work. It operates like a gas pump. When it senses back pressure, it shuts down. Debris in the aerator can do that.
I'd unscrew the aerator and take it apart carefully, noting what goes where, and clear it of any debris blocking the screen.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

Glenn, I have had pressure relief valves on water heaters start to leak if they were repeatedly operated, necessitating replacement. Perhaps you have never had this happen, but I always open the hot water faucet whether filling or draining rather than the relief valve.

Yup, I've had a drip, but I don't think that's from operating the valve. My advice was based on info I got from Reace.
Advantage is you don't fill your grey tank.

[Mucram]

So remember I'm new to the finer rv things like hot water heaters. Pretend you're teaching a newbie. I had an 89 scamp w pump so it worked or didn't. Never have had a brand new trailer 700+ miles away from manufacturer. Sad with window issues & now pump issue.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Mucram

Thanks Glen. Will try that. Still doesn't explain why cold not flowing with full tank either. Might I have a faulty pump?

Dumb question, but have you turned on the water pump?

[elongest]

If your trailer has the winterization option there is valve and a clear plastic hose near the pump input. If the valve points to the plastic hose it will suck air ( The hose is used for antifreeze pick up.) and it will not let you pull water out of your fresh water tank. My valve was hidden behind the pipe and hard to see.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Mucram

So remember I'm new to the finer rv things like hot water heaters. Pretend you're teaching a newbie. I had an 89 scamp w pump so it worked or didn't. Never have had a brand new trailer 700+ miles away from manufacturer. Sad with window issues & now pump issue.

Do you hear the pump trying to run or just get nothing at all when switching the pump on?

1. Fill fresh water tank.
2. Ensure all valves are in proper position. Lever inline with pipe is open; lever perpendicular to a pipe is closed. Winterization line valve on open ended tube near pump suction must be closed. Hot water bypass can be open or closed and pump should still work. You can fill the hot water tank from the fresh tank with the pump but it will take awhile as it is 6 gallons and need to bleed the air out.
3. Check 12V pump fuse in power center.
4. Check that pump inlet strainer is clean and no kinks in lines. Strainer is 50 mesh which is quite fine and can clog if water quality in tank was ever less than ideal.
5. Turn pump on at monitor panel switch. Pump is self priming by design.
6. Open cold faucet. If you think kitchen faucet aerator could be clogged then open bath faucet. Can try hot too but it makes no difference. Pump should be coming on either way.

If nothing is happening the pump is bad or there is a bad electrical connection. Pump cycles on demand and is designed for cut-in (on) at 40 psi and cut-out (off) at 55 psi.

Hope this helps.

[gbaglo]

Excellent summary.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Do you hear the pump trying to run or just get nothing at all when switching the pump on?

1. Fill fresh water tank.
2. Ensure all valves are in proper position. Lever inline with pipe is open; lever perpendicular to a pipe is closed. Winterization line valve on open ended tube near pump suction must be closed. Hot water bypass can be open or closed and pump should still work. You can fill the hot water tank from the fresh tank with the pump but it will take awhile as it is 6 gallons and need to bleed the air out.
3. Check 12V pump fuse in power center.
4. Check that pump inlet strainer is clean and no kinks in lines. Strainer is 50 mesh which is quite fine and can clog if water quality in tank was ever less than ideal.
5. Turn pump on at monitor panel switch. Pump is self priming by design.
6. Open cold faucet. If you think kitchen faucet aerator could be clogged then open bath faucet. Can try hot too but it makes no difference. Pump should be coming on either way.

If nothing is happening the pump is bad or there is a bad electrical connection. Pump cycles on demand and is designed for cut-in (on) at 40 psi and cut-out (off) at 55 psi.

Hope this helps.

Twice my water pump has failed to pump water . Both time the pump screen on the suction side of the pump was plugged .
Cleaned screen and all was well ( See note #4 above.)

[Steve Clark]

Originally Posted by Mucram

Need advice please. Filled the water tank for the 1st time & with bleach to sanitize system. Turned on pump, no water. Tammy said to remove top of pump & push the check valve. It easily pushed in & popped back out as she said it should. Well, still no water. Can't do that sucky thing to the faucet as it is the new one. The stopcocks are not in bypass position but in the horizontal position which is "normal" according to owners manual. In addition, I don't completely understand how the water tank fills....here is how I think it works, open faucet to hot, turn on pump & hot water tank should fill? Also, if pump working correctly, turning on pump with faucet on cold should expel air & then start water flow correct? Well none of that is happening. Frustrating to a new novice owner. Sure could use your expert advice. Thank you! Julie
PS, I assume those "stopcocks" when turned in line are in direction of flow?

Julie, You mention the water heater bypass valves are in the "horizontal' or "normal" position. Horizontal may not be normal. As Rubicon mentioned, make sure the stopcocks are "IN LINE" with the water pipes. One water pipe may me horizontal, but the other may be vertical. Good luck!

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Steve Clark

Julie, You mention the water heater bypass valves are in the "horizontal' or "normal" position. Horizontal may not be normal. As Rubicon mentioned, make sure the stopcocks are "IN LINE" with the water pipes. One water pipe may me horizontal, but the other may be vertical. Good luck!

Steve: Horizontal is "normal" according to the manual and from what I recall in the trailer, but you make a good point. If one of the valves is left in bypass and not the other you would be deadheading the pump on the hot water side. If the top valve was inline the pump should have still come on to fill the hot water heater though. If all steps I outlined above are followed and both hot and cold faucets are tried and the pump is not coming on then something is most likely wrong.

[steve dunham]

It is also possible that the pumps pressure switch is bad or the contacts are stuck in the open position , not allowing the pump to run.

[Mucram]

Here are the troubleshooting actions I have taken:
1. connected to pressurized hose, filled hot water tank, ran both hot & cold water successfully
2. Disconnected pressurized hose, tried pump again, it will make noise but nothing is happening.
3. Removed filter & cleaned (there was a bit of plastic debris)
4. Removed top of pump for 3rd time & made sure check valve went in & out smoothly
5. Tried pump again with faucet open, no water but pump makes noise like it is trying. All valves are in correct position.
6. Now will youtube & see if there are any other tips but it sounds like a faulty pump

Question: wouldn't Escape quality control have checked that the pump worked correctly prior to handoff?
Thanks to all who took the time to answer my questions. Am trying to get on the road but would like this resolved prior so I have water. Julie

[steve dunham]

You could have a bad pump diaphram .
1 ) Is the vent on your fresh water tank plugged ?
2 ) Did you check to make sure that the piping /pex tubing feeding water to the suction side of your pump is plugged ?
3 ) Is there a valve ( tank drain / pump feed ) on the output of the fresh water tank ?
4) Do you actually have water at the suction side of the pump ?

The pump is designed to be self priming. If your water tank has sufficient water then gravity should cause the pump to flood.
If you pulled your pump filter with the tank full of water and didn't flood your trailer , that would be a good indication .

[rubicon327]

Is there any chance the inlet and outlet hoses on the pump are reversed? There should be a flow arrow on the pump housing.

[gocamp]

"Should Escape check that the pump worked?"


(Edited to save glenn's forehead. If not.....)I'm thinking hard freeze headaches for them after folks hit the road. That toilet valve can be a delicate rascal if all the water is not out. Hearing back from customers, i'm sure they know the odds favor a working pump for the vast majority.