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Old 07-14-2014, 03:18 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveandsandyclink View Post
Hi Parker,
It's not much. Just a trial at this point. I took a large sheet of heavy duty Reynolds aluminum foil and fashioned it loosely around a 4" tube. Then taped and slid it off. I just loosely slid it over the top of the chimney. The Dometic chimney has a baffle inside to help with heat absorption. My thinking was to exhaust this heat out close to my upper side vent. I am not sure if it has helped. Maybe a fraction.
Careful with extending the burner exhaust stack - the vent topper is plastic, which melts/burns, not fiberglass.
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Old 07-14-2014, 03:29 PM   #62
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I have had my 21 plugged into house AC for 4 days. The 6.7 fridge has been on and set at 5.. After initial cooling overnight the fridege was readig 34 (lower 90's outside). Today it is 97 and the fridge temp is 40. I have been opening the door to check once or twice a day and the fridge is empty.
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Old 07-14-2014, 03:36 PM   #63
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As others have already surmised, the performance appears to be based upon locality causing temperature differentials. But with 49 states and the entire Canadian Provinces which more doubles the land area, I'd say the the problem may only encompass less than 5% of the useable land mass. With acceptable performance in 95% of the known useable area, it can be said that the product works as designed. Perhaps a disclaimer, similar to high altitude labels might be applicable but one may have to accept what you have.
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Old 07-14-2014, 03:42 PM   #64
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non refrig

In hotter weather I'm lucky if it gets down to 50 F.Dometic should be ashamed of themselves , Maybe we need a class action suit and lots of bad publicity . Herb
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Old 07-14-2014, 03:42 PM   #65
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The 4.3 frig in our 2013 Escape 19 has not cooled adequately except when ambient air temps are below 70 degrees F. We have improved the cooling on the average, 7 degrees F. by removing the freezer compartment. It is best to use a well insulated cooler with ice to store perishables, especially meat (fowl). Very disappointed, but this is our first experience with absorption refrigeration and it physical limitations. I think the problem is the lack of ambient air moving across the exterior cooling heat exchanger to displace heat that is absorbed in the refrig box. Physically, higher ambient air temps cannot be overcome to displace heat that is absorbed inside the frig.
I believe the problem is anywhere the ambient air temps are above 70 degrees F. despite the geographic location. It is not a matter of temperature differentials but ambient air temperatures.
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:00 PM   #66
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Charlie if you are referring to my upper refrigerator vent, mine was not built with the new style roof vent. This 5.0 SA has a aluminum side vent. But good point for others.
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:17 PM   #67
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Jack,
Wish we were there to join you. Two years ago before we bought your Escape 19 we went to the South Dakota Badlands and the Black Hills. It was an extremely hot summer. We put a chunk of dry ice in our cooler and covered it with ice. It worked very well. We didn't buy ice for 4 days! Have a great time! Rita and Dave
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:23 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by daveandsandyclink View Post
Charlie if you are referring to my upper refrigerator vent, mine was not built with the new style roof vent. This 5.0 SA has a aluminum side vent. But good point for others.
Maybe that is the cause of your issue, side vs top venting?
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:30 PM   #69
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I have experienced problems with my 4.3 in hot weather and have made numerous tweaks to help the poor cooling situation. I am sensing that the problem is especially noticeable with the 19' model, both refrigerator sizes. I think it starts with the oversized area behind the refrigerator (trailer design issue) that is not to factory specs....hence the baffles added to help. I am looking forward to Reace's baffle instructions.
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:39 PM   #70
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Does anybody think the fridge on the "no awning" side like the 5TA, the 21 and the 19 have more issues with cooling then the 17 or the 15 or 13?

Just asking.
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:41 PM   #71
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We had a difficult time getting things cooled in our 5.0 cf fridge on the trip home from Chilliwack in summer of 2013...it was really hot and we couldn't get the fridge to cool much on either propane or electrical. BUT we were not running it while traveling and we were changing locations every day. It did cool some overnight. Since then we have been out a few times and it still struggles to keep cool in warmer temps...recovering at night.

We recently added a homemade 'curtain' to help retain coolness when the door is opened to take or replace items from the fridge. Kind of like they do on big commercial coolers that people are coming and going into frequently. We did one section for the top shelf and another for the lower shelves. Not sure yet if it has made a difference...but it was a cheap and easy attempt...just duct tape, twist ties and remnants from the shower curtain we cut up for the Escape bathroom.
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Heat Loss Curtain.jpg   Heat Loss Curtain Top Shelf.jpg   Heat Loss Curtain Main 2.jpg  
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:41 PM   #72
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We are heading to a local lake tomorrow. Plugged in the fridge today(it is in a storage unit).

We have a thermometer in the freezer and fridge. They will read out on a digital thingy we can keep in the car. This is our experiment. We will let you know how it does in a couple of days. We do have the Texas fan. This is our first summer outing and we are anxiously keeping an eye on the temps. Picked our 21 up in March.

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Old 07-14-2014, 06:32 PM   #73
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Fran or Dave
What's the logic behind turning the unit off for travel? I've noticed more then just you folks doing such.
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Old 07-14-2014, 06:43 PM   #74
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A short search on the internet shows that problems with inadequate cooling on the absorption type fridges is a common thing -- and it's not limited to the southern or hotter climates, although it is more prevalent there.

I don't think it's the manufacturers fault, but the technology's fault. Jim's right -- they do work as designed. It's just that absorption technology has it's limitations. I remember my great grandmother's refrigerator when I was a child. Basically a big rectangular chest with a large cylinder sitting on top -- the absorption heat exchanger. Yep, same technology as the RV fridges of today. And, when you stood next to the fridge, you could really feel the heat coming from that cylinder on top. But, they do allow being off grid for extended periods of time and still having a "fridge".
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:08 PM   #75
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Brian, where did you get those nice chairs?
We bought ours from Costco several years ago. The brand is Tommy Bahama. They are a seasonal item so sometimes not in the stores.

They are very comfortable and fold up compactly for storing or moving.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:16 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Fran or Dave
What's the logic behind turning the unit off for travel? I've noticed more then just you folks doing such.
It is considered a safety issue. Should you become involved in an MVA, there is no open flame and propane to become involved.
And, you have to shut off the fridge prior to stopping for fuel, going on a ferry or through a tunnel. So, stop, shut down, get fuel or through a tunnel, stop, restart fridge. PIA.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:17 PM   #77
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I may be wrong but so far the 17', the 15' and the 13' trailer with the fridge on the same side as the awning (for shade) don't seem to be having the problem with cooling.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:22 PM   #78
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That maybe the solution, a small sun shade for the vent for those sunny spots. Should reduce air temperature enough to keep a draft going.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:26 PM   #79
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Hi Robbie,
Finally...It's great to hear from someone in my area evaluating their refrigerator performance. Looks like mid 90's in the shower free areas tomorrow. Good test conditions for your 6.7. I would like to hear of your temperature control setting, ambient temp, inside refrigerator temp, and your over night recovery temp.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:36 PM   #80
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That maybe the solution, a small sun shade for the vent for those sunny spots. Should reduce air temperature enough to keep a draft going.
A Sun shade may reduce surface temps but not ambient air temps.
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