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Old 07-14-2014, 07:47 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Fran or Dave
What's the logic behind turning the unit off for travel? I've noticed more then just you folks doing such.
I'm not speaking for Fran or Dave, but many people turn their refrigerators off of propane operation for travel for one of at least three reasons:
  • They want the propane supply valve on the tank closed so that in a collision there is no open propane line to feed a fire; with no propane supply, the refrigerator can't run on propane.
  • They need all propane appliances to be off when pulling into a gas station (because an operating appliance can ignite gasoline fumes), and don't want to do this (or remember to do this) at each stop, so they just leave it off.
  • The flame blows out - or they are afraid it will blow out and they don't trust the valve to shut off flow - with the air movement of highway speeds, so they find propane operation while towing to be unworkable.

The 12V mode (if you have one; larger RV refrigerators normally don't) is for use while towing, but some people find that if they use that their trailer battery doesn't recharge.

I started this reply, then got sidetracked for a while. In the mean time, Baglo posted essentially the same first two reasons - we're saying some of the same things.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:50 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
It is considered a safety issue. Should you become involved in an MVA, there is no open flame and propane to become involved.
And, you have to shut off the fridge prior to stopping for fuel, going on a ferry or through a tunnel. So, stop, shut down, get fuel or through a tunnel, stop, restart fridge. PIA.
Is this restriction just for propane usage or does it also applied electrical power to?
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:52 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
That maybe the solution, a small sun shade for the vent for those sunny spots. Should reduce air temperature enough to keep a draft going.
Yes, but if you want that draft to really work, I think you want the shade open at the top, rather than directly against the trailer wall. It seems like an awkward thing to set up, but if it makes your refrigerator work maybe it's worthwhile.

I've seen this shade idea discussed before, perhaps in this forum.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:57 PM   #84
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A Sun shade may reduce surface temps but not ambient air temps.
That may be true but when the metal access panels on my 17b get direct sun it gets hot, very hot. When it's in the shade it stays cooler. Do these units draw in air from these panels?
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:57 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
It is considered a safety issue. Should you become involved in an MVA, there is no open flame and propane to become involved.
And, you have to shut off the fridge prior to stopping for fuel, going on a ferry or through a tunnel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by markvt View Post
Is this restriction just for propane usage or does it also applied electrical power to?
By "restriction" do you mean the ferry/tunnel rule? This is only for propane, because the hazard being managed is a propane leak in an enclosed space, not the ignition source.

The collision (MVA) issue could be about both the fuel source (leaking propane from ruptured gas lines) and about the ignition source (appliance flames). Powered circuits in the trailer could be considered ignition sources, and would be if they shorted due to cable damage, but I've never heard of this (like electrical systems in trailers) as a serious concern... in part because fuses blow and cut off shorted circuits.
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:11 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by markvt View Post
Is this restriction just for propane usage or does it also applied electrical power to?
Doesn't apply to electric, but running on 12V while driving deprives your trailer battery of charge, because the fridge is using all the tow vehicle can deliver. Not a great solution.
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:14 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Fran or Dave
What's the logic behind turning the unit off for travel? I've noticed more then just you folks doing such.
We just don't feel comfortable having the propane running while travelling...we know most folks do run the fridge on propane while travelling and are not worried about it but it just makes us nervous.
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:15 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Doesn't apply to electric, but running on 12V while driving deprives your trailer battery of charge, because the fridge is using all the tow vehicle can deliver. Not a great solution.
Neither is leaving the fridge shut off while traveling if you have refrigerator temp control issues.
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:48 PM   #89
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Our Casita's 4.1ci fridge would freeze food sitting on the beach in Florida and Casita' s have terrible venting. We have the 4.3 in our 19. I think Dometic has missed the boat on this new series and the fridges cooling system is inadequate for the size.
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:05 PM   #90
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I would echo Jubal's comments. The 4.3 in our 19 just does not work when it's hot outside. Elevation had nothing to do with it as far as I could tell...we were headed west across Nebraska and it was as bad in Omaha at 1000 feet elevation as it was in Scottsbluff at 3900 feet. We just carried a cooler in back of the Traverse with a new block of ice every other day. I'm also eager to see what Reace has come up with.
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:20 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by J Mac View Post
I may be wrong but so far the 17', the 15' and the 13' trailer with the fridge on the same side as the awning (for shade) don't seem to be having the problem with cooling.
Don't remember anyone with a 3.0 Dometic complaining about temperature; we never had a problem with ours- and used our awning once in 100+/- days. Bigger not always better of course.
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:29 PM   #92
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That's pretty much what I'm saying Rossue.
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:37 PM   #93
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It would be interesting to hear from any of the 17, 15 and/or 13 foot Escape Trailer owners on this topic.
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:45 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by J Mac View Post
Does anybody think the fridge on the "no awning" side like the 5TA, the 21 and the 19 have more issues with cooling then the 17 or the 15 or 13?

Just asking.
Is it possible to run a forum survey maybe asking if you have experienced refrigerator cooling problems while camping in hot areas and then somehow add trailer type
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:11 AM   #95
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Hi lefttee,
Can you recall what your temperatures were, fridge setting, any mods? Any details might help us help you. There are some things you can do and check which might improve your refrigerator performance. The power of sharing detailed experience and knowledge on this forum is often priceless.
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:47 AM   #96
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Traveling on 90+ days our 5 cf frig has no trouble maintaining 50 if I set the control all the way over.

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Old 07-15-2014, 08:52 AM   #97
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Good morning Dave and Sandy...
As of now everything is "stock"... just as it came from the factory except for the baffle in the back of the fridge that we removed per Reace's instructions. That made little if any difference. I picked up a small interior fan yesterday and may consider a fan for the coils and space behind the fridge. I haven't made time to get the manifold pressure checked yet. We are headed for Glacier and parts north next Monday and temps are 80+. I expect a rerun of our experience last summer. Appreciate the collective wisdom on the forum. I suspect the real issue is the technology. Always harder to find a cure when you have to treat the symptoms and not the disease.
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Old 07-15-2014, 09:14 AM   #98
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there seems to be two common denominators here. The cooling issue, so far, seems to be with:
1) the larger fridge...4.3 & 6.7
2) fridge on the sun exposed side ...opposite side of the awning.
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Old 07-15-2014, 09:31 AM   #99
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Traveling on 90+ days our 5 cf frig has no trouble maintaining 50 if I set the control all the way over.
Not exactly a ringing endorsement.
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:03 AM   #100
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and the 5.0 in the 5th...
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