How to remove a furnace for repairs? Late 2014, '21 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 07-03-2018, 09:26 AM   #1
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How to remove a furnace for repairs? Late 2014, '21

It was a rough 10 miles of washboard that did in my furnace, and a few other items, all of which I have been able to repair with the exception of the furnace.

The mounting bracket that supports the combustion chamber blower was attached by some small tack welds that all failed. I think I can reattach the bracket using small bolts or sheet metal screws but only after removing the unit. This is where I am stuck.

At this point I have removed two wood screws from the front of the furnace that held it to the seat frame. Also, separated the gas line from the main valve. Wires will be next if I can get past the sticking point. The front (where the warm air exhausts) can move up/down, left/right about 1/4 of an inch and nothing seems to be obstructing the unit. But I can only pull it towards the interior about 1/4 of an inch before it stops. My thought is that something is restraining the unit at the rear where the combustion gas exits the trailer. On the furnace is a rectangular box that appears to be attached to the fiberglass - but I do not know this for certain. Should this part remain attached to the trailer?

Should I attempt to use more force - by means of a wood wedge or pry bar at the rear or is there another fastener somewhere that I am overlooking?

Thanks everyone.
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Alan
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Old 07-03-2018, 09:51 AM   #2
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These pictures are probably no help to you. I can't remember how I did it but don't recall having to do anything but pull the unit straight out. It may have caught underneath on cross bracing. For me the most important thing was labeling the wire connections to get them right when re installing. Forcing the exhaust to nest back into the exterior flue was also hard to do. Good luck.
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File Type: jpg furnace.jpg (111.1 KB, 37 views)
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Old 07-03-2018, 10:09 AM   #3
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These pictures are probably no help to you.

Actually they give me some confidence. In the (right) photo of the unit standing upright there is a rectangular opening above the blower. I am guessing that there is a matching rectangular pipe attached to the trailer that stays in place?
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Old 07-03-2018, 11:15 AM   #4
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I read somewhere to remove the exhaust bezel from the outside to make it easier to reinstall, wonder if that joint may be the stuck connection, not that I've had mine apart.
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Old 07-03-2018, 11:19 AM   #5
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Right. It nests inside the part that goes outside and is a very very snug fit. The first time I pushed the unit into it was easy. Then I had to pull the furnace out again (needed to run wires along the outside wall) and it was a total miserable bear! Don't know why - but the unit jammed -got binded?) in there a tad too proud for the front face.
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Old 07-03-2018, 01:09 PM   #6
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Here is a link to a photo of the floor after removal. It shows the need to remove the support board under the furnace.

How to replace sail switch ? (Atwood 8012)
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Old 07-03-2018, 03:43 PM   #7
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Agreed, probably --- I wasn't wanting to drill out the rivets.
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:15 PM   #8
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Agreed, probably --- I wasn't wanting to drill out the rivets.

Success!!!


Didn't have a support board since it is installed on the floor of the '21.
Didn't need to drill out the rivets of the exhaust bezel.


Yes, it was a bear to remove but a tad bit easier to reinstall now that I know what goes where.


Photos and more description later tonight. Hopefully someone can benefit from my sweat and colorful language episode.


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Old 07-04-2018, 09:08 AM   #9
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Here are the gory details and some photos:


It appears that what was preventing the unit from being pulled away from the wall was some double-sided sticky tape. Guessing that the purpose was to make an airtight seal around what I am calling a flue "box". That tape deformed and bunched up requiring two of us pulling at the same time to make any progress. I removed the bunched up section of tape and things went together a bit easier.

After discovering that the furnace was non-functional I made a visual inspection and easily noted that the spot welds had failed. These support the motor and blower fans. Also, the combustion air pipe had fallen off the fitting and air was not flowing over the Sail switch. The switch however proved to be functional and was not replaced.

After pulling the unit I was able to drill some holes in the sheet metal near the welds and place some short 6X32 bolts to take the place of the welds. This seems to be working fine. I also attached bullet connectors on the 3 wires that I had to cut (no photos). Reassembly went rather smoothly and I tested the gas connection with soapy water.

Quite the learning process, and I think I saved a bundle of $$$. At least that is what I told Susannah to justify buying a nice 13/16 combination wrench that I needed to remove the gas line. It's a good project that requires at least one new tool.

--
Alan
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File Type: jpg IMG_3214.jpg (327.7 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3215.jpg (199.9 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3217.jpg (259.7 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3219.jpg (138.4 KB, 21 views)
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Old 07-04-2018, 09:34 AM   #10
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Gotta have tools

Glad your project worked out. I was a little disappointed that you stopped with only justifying one additional wrench. That job should have been good for at least a set of wrenches and perhaps a new battery powered tool. Gotta think big.
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