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Old 07-11-2014, 06:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickM View Post
Jim, you can easily add 12 v to the interior by running wires through the grommet that houses the copper supply line. Then, from the outside access panel connect the wires to the junction block. This link should make it more clear.



Refrigerator Light
Thanks for the link, I had forgotten about this one. Something I am going to look into for sure, even if not just for the light.
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Old 07-19-2014, 03:09 PM   #12
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Well, I turned my 4.3 refrigerator on 120 VAC with the new fan system on yesterday evening and this morning at 9:00AM the temps were 1 degree F in the freezer and 32 in the refer with the fans running, temp set at coldest (5 lights) , no load inside and 87 F degrees ambient when measured. I measured 1 degree warmer at the door verses in front of the cooling fins so the fans seem to be mixing the air well. I will be camping starting next Monday in the Eastern Sierra Mountains of California at 7,000 ft for two weeks and will keep you updated. I plan to occupy a full-sun camping space with the trailer tongue pointing South so I will have the sun baking on the fiberglass surface behind the refrigerator until about noon. The weather forecasts predict temperatures from 80 degrees F to 100 F with intermittent thunderstorms. The fans inside the refer will be running full time. I will be watching and reporting how well the refrigerator handles those high temps and temp swings...but of course fishing, barbeque and alcohol will be the priority and not necessarily in that order...

Steve
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Old 07-26-2014, 11:54 PM   #13
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I just returned today from a week of camping at Silver Lake at 7,000ft near Mammoth in the Sierra Mountains of California and wanted to update you on the operation of the two fans I installed in my 4.3 refer. Before I left I cooled down the refer empty with the fans running and I think it took about the same amount of time as without them to cool the unit down...maybe 6-7 hours. The next morning I packed the freezer full and lightly packed the refer and left. When I got to camp the freezer was around 20f and the refer around 45f. I traveled while the day was still cool. This didn't make sense because I was it wasn't over 80f and the unit had always operated better than this in the past. After messing with loading for a few days I learned that once I moved the items in the freezer away from the fins so that nothing was actual toughing them the unit starting cooling significantly. Nothing else changed including the refer load nor weather. Originally, in the freezer, I had two plastic bags with frozen chicken jammed against the fins (packing it full) along with other goodies. The one change that had a dramatic positive impact on cooling was moving that chicken away from the fins. The rest of the week the refer unit worked fine and I turned it down a notch. Although I have no scientific conclusion on the impact of the cooling fans I believe that they help recirculate the air so that items in the door are colder and keep the cooling fins from icing up. I also don't need to small battery operated fan anymore.

On the way home I drove through the desert along the mountains for about 300 miles of the 400 mile trip at 95f to 100f and the refrigerator temps climbed to 20 in the freezer and 47 in the refer. Unfortunately, the hot climate cooling issue is still with me.

Steve
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Old 07-28-2014, 06:35 PM   #14
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The chicken didn't happen to be spicy habanero wings? That could certainly affect the temp! Cool ranch might be a better choice.
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Old 07-30-2014, 02:04 PM   #15
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I need help with the Fridge-Fix fan installation.

I have the new, large fridge - Dometic 8555.

1) The Fridge-fix (fan/light) works fine when connected to 12V.

2) My interior fridge fin appears to be NOT grounded. (Fan red on +12V, black clip to fin - nothing. Digital VOM shows open circuit between interior fin and known good 12V ground.)

3) My fridge light power wires are VERY tiny. They show about 11.5V when the fridge interior LEDs are off and 10+V when on - I am not sure it is safe to use this to power the fan.

4) The thermistor exits behind the fins and comes out the back high up behind the baffle - essentially impossible reach without R&Ring the fridge.

5) It is possible (but not easy) to get 2 wires out the condensate drain but they will come very close to totally blocking it.

Plan A: Someone here comes up with a solution - or shows me the error of my ways.

Plan B: I contact Fridge-fix Mike and ask for a longer black lead. I drill an additional hole from the inside near the bottom of the fridge, run a pair of wires to the back for DC power, and caulk it shut.
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Old 07-30-2014, 03:39 PM   #16
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Doug, take a look at this and also the links within it.
Refrigerator Light
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Old 07-30-2014, 04:09 PM   #17
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The white wire is the feed wire for power, not the brown wire. The ground clip has to be firmly attached to the rear fins for a good ground. Go to post #175 here for pictures of install
Dometic 6.7 cf fridge performance
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Old 07-30-2014, 04:27 PM   #18
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Jim
How did you splice into the white wire ?
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:21 PM   #19
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They include a little plastic wire splice that you place onto the power wire, insert the red wire and then clamp down with pliers and close the snap, done. Here is a picture of the item
http://www.amazon.com/Solderless-Wir...s=wire+splices
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File Type: jpg 51hEuM51yVL._SL1500_.jpg (45.3 KB, 1 views)
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:46 PM   #20
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Jim,
I think you insert the red wire into the splice. The black wire is the ground and has the clip to attach to a cooling fin.

Dave
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