installing an ETI supplied under bed door - tips

[Losangeles]

hi all

So I had ETI send me an under bed door - that i'll install right outside of the bathroom on our 2017 21'


they sent it with all hardware installed (hinges) - yay!

Unfortunately they didn't include a short hunk of trim for the bottom lip of the hole, that will be visible as i put shoes in and out of the new hole. That would have been nice.

Anyway - having inspected the stock door, i see they used some blocking to re-inforce along the sides of the hole.

i'm semi-handy.... own a jig saw but i'm afraid i'll be a klutz and make a wobbly hole.

any tips as to how best cut a straight line ? with the side of bed panel in place.

and should i very carefully cut the hole, and get that right first, then add the blocking?

(I am aware that i should start slightly small with the hole, and slowly get bigger to tidy the edges....)

Unsure how to secure the blocking.... they used a staple system i dont have - maybe some little metal bits, with proper length wood screws, and some wood glue too?

and...Not a huge big deal, but where would i get a suitable hunk of that wood grain "cap" trim to add to the most visible part of the new hole?



Thanks

john

[cpaharley2008]

You can stain the wood to match the trim and get some 1x1 pine trim for around the door, staple it in place horizontal and attach at top and bottom vertical pieces and then the horizontal piece.

[gbaglo]

I've found an oscillating multi-tool does a nice clean job, but I've only used it on small cuts.

[Losangeles]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I've found an oscillating multi-tool does a nice clean job, but I've only used it on small cuts.

that was my first thought.... i recently bought one... it is 100% amazing what it can do.

perhaps with a steady hand I can do a good enough job?

anyone know of any glue on wood grain / plastic trim that would hide the cut and the added blocking?

[Greg A]

Mark your lines for your cut and then tape them with painters tape. It will give you a better guide to follow and also will help to prevent splintering along the cut.
The Depot carries wood grain edge trim that isn't bad if I'm following what you want to cover. Used it on a Murphy bed I built years ago.

[Losangeles]

Originally Posted by Greg A

Mark your lines for your cut and then tape them with painters tape. It will give you a better guide to follow and also will help to prevent splintering along the cut.
The Depot carries wood grain edge trim that isn't bad if I'm following what you want to cover. Used it on a Murphy bed I built years ago.

cool, and cool - thanks!!

John

[elongest]

If you have access to a Kreg jig, that works great for adding the supports behind the paneling and provides a really strong joint.
Eddie

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I've found an oscillating multi-tool does a nice clean job, but I've only used it on small cuts.

That's what Reace used (Milwaukee cordless, for what it's worth) to cut into the cubbies to access/swap out bathroom water hoses on new 21's during his whirlwind trip around the states this past Summer.

[Ron in BC]

I made a simple jig that made it easy to cut it out exactly and in the right place.

I glued in the backing blocks. They're solid as a rock, nothing else is required.

I used oak veneer on the edge. Others have found other edge treatments. Or you can just leave it as is.

Ron

[Ron in BC]

The photo.

[Jim Bennett]

On all my cabinets cut into existing woodwork, I first installed blocking/backing framing the exact door size I wanted, which essentially became the jig. I then quickly cut with an osculating saw the panelling free hand leaving it a touch inside the framing. I then ran a small router with a straight bit around the hole to make the panelling edge nice and flush with the framing. then a quick sand to clean up where necessary, and knock the sharp edge off the front of the panelling. If it was a drawer I was done, with a cabinet with door, I painted the sides a colour just like Escape did, and put a tough vinyl cap on the bottom, again like Escape uses.

Though my description sounds lengthy, it really was quite easy to do. A few minutes to get a frame in place, and about a minute to do the other prep work, Combining a bunch of openings at once helped speed up the process too.