Insulation Around Fridge Compartment - Good Or Bad Idea

[NuthatchBC]

When I was installing muffin fans behind the upper fridge grille in our 19, I noticed that there was open space between the trailer walls and the fridge. In fact, when I looked past the fridge door from inside the trailer, I could see daylight through the upper vent.

I think it would be a good idea to stuff fibreglass insulation in the spaces around the fridge. This would be good for two reasons (I think) one, to retain heat inside the trailer when using the furnace and two, to hopefully improve the efficiency of the fridge.

Has anyone done this? Is it a good or a bad idea? Standing by for any and all opinions/suggestions.

Doug

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by NuthatchBC

When I was installing muffin fans behind the upper fridge grille in our 19, I noticed that there was open space between the trailer walls and the fridge. In fact, when I looked past the fridge door from inside the trailer, I could see daylight through the upper vent.

I think it would be a good idea to stuff fibreglass insulation in the spaces around the fridge. This would be good for two reasons (I think) one, to retain heat inside the trailer when using the furnace and two, to hopefully improve the efficiency of the fridge.

Has anyone done this? Is it a good or a bad idea? Standing by for any and all opinions/suggestions.

Doug

From one of several Dometic installation manuals Doug:

"The space between the refrigerator cabinet and the furniture should be kept to a minimum. This is to exclude the warm air given off by the cooling unit from blanketing the cabinet. If possible fill any void with glass insulation wool down both sides and on top of the refrigerator cabinet."

Based on this, I'd say adding insulation on the sides and top is a good idea.

[rubicon327]

Doug: I assume you have the top sidewall vent based on your description. This makes it fairly easy to insulate without pulling the fridge. I used 2” rigid insulation at the top and batt insulation along the sides. I used a yard stick through the upper and lower vent to push it in along the sides. I then rolled some Reflectix and used it as the outer edge with some HVAC foil tape helping to complete the seal. In newer builds Reace seems to have the cabinet much tighter dimensionally and puts batt insulation along the sides from the pictures I have seen.

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...tml#post217811

[barry]

Originally Posted by NuthatchBC

When I was installing muffin fans behind the upper fridge grille in our 19, I noticed that there was open space between the trailer walls and the fridge. In fact, when I looked past the fridge door from inside the trailer, I could see daylight through the upper vent.

I think it would be a good idea to stuff fibreglass insulation in the spaces around the fridge. This would be good for two reasons (I think) one, to retain heat inside the trailer when using the furnace and two, to hopefully improve the efficiency of the fridge.

Has anyone done this? Is it a good or a bad idea? Standing by for any and all opinions/suggestions.

Doug

This past winter I pulled my fridge because I had big gaps around the top and sides and when in a windy area could feel the wind coming into the trailer from the fridge cavity. Also, I use the cabinet above the fridge for storing food and the inside of the cabinet would get warm and food would quickly go moldy.


I pulled the plywood skins inside the cavity and insulated the top sides and bottom with 3/4" Styrofoam then replaced the skin. I then packed the fridge cavity with another 1/2" on the sides and 3/4" on the top, covered the fridge with the reflective bubble insulation and reinstalled the fridge into a "very" tight cavity. Then I took off the outside top side vent and sealed the the fridge to the cavity with aluminum tape to completely seal the fridge cavity from the outside and burner area of the fridge. I used Styrofoam rather than Fiberglas because as soon as you compact Fiberglas you will compromise it's insulating qualities.



Fridge works like a charm now, far better than before. We were down in Utah this spring in 90 degree + weather and it ran on #3 in the day and #2 at night to keep the fridge at about 2 degrees Celsius.


The top cabinet is now cool also so no more spoiled food and moldy bread!
Barry

[padlin]

If not obvious, you need to leave some room for airflow over the back of the unit.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by NuthatchBC

I think it would be a good idea to stuff fibreglass insulation in the spaces around the fridge. This would be good for two reasons (I think) one, to retain heat inside the trailer when using the furnace and two, to hopefully improve the efficiency of the fridge.

Doug, I would forgo the fibreglass insulation and do rigid like others have. The problem with batt insulation is that you need a good vapour seal or it's effectiveness is reduced drastically as air can still flow through it.

I had thought to put rigid in the walls around my fridge when I had it out, but timing did not allow it as I needed to get it back in as we were taking off right away. Besides, I have had no issues with my newer model fridge and cooling, and removing the fridge, though with ours a two person job, only takes 5 minutes.

[thiggins]

We had a similar issue on our old (gone now) Casita. The overhead fan was pulling combustion byproducts from the fridge into the cabin. This was disturbing as I have Asthma and it set me off. I used rigid foam, as well as spray foam insulation to make an air tight seal, at least as well as possible. I see it as a safety issue, along with the heat it might introduce.

[NuthatchBC]

I also thought of just spraying expandable foam in the cavities but what if the fridge ever has to be removed? Seems like the foam would 'glue' itself to the fridge and the walls making removal almost impossible.

I would like to use the solid stryofoam stuff but can't see how I could get into the cavities from the rear. I think, like Jim said, the fridge would have to be taken out to do a good job of that.

Doug

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by NuthatchBC

I would like to use the solid stryofoam stuff but can't see how I could get into the cavities from the rear. I think, like Jim said, the fridge would have to be taken out to do a good job of that.

Might be worth pulling the fridge then Doug. As others have mentioned, once fiberglass insulation is compressed it's insulating properties are lessened. The rigid foam would insulate better and probably mean better fridge performance.

As for the spray foam, I see nothing wrong with a small amount of it along the front and back edges once the fridge is back in place. It could be easily scraped away if you ever had to pull the fridge later.

[NuthatchBC]

Ok, then how difficult it is to pull the fridge? Could Kathy and I do it? What about disconnecting the gas? Sounds like a good place to screw something up.

Doug

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by NuthatchBC

Ok, then how difficult it is to pull the fridge? Could Kathy and I do it? What about disconnecting the gas? Sounds like a good place to screw something up.

It's usually not fun, but even larger RV refrigerators are routinely removed and replaced by solo techs. I've only helped someone else do it. It's usually easier with two people, and a platform at the same height as the floor of the refrigerator cabinet (to slide the 'fridge out onto) would make it easier. An exactly matched table would be a lucky find; the ideal would be a lift table, but I don't have one and I've never heard of anyone actually using one for this.

Specifically about the gas...
I have no idea what other people can do or are willing to do, but I'm not very concerned about disconnecting and reconnecting the gas line. I've done it for water heater replacements a few times. One suggestion: the connection will presumably be a 3/8" SAE flare fitting (male on appliance, female flare nut on line), so get a flare plug to close off the disconnected line so it will need less purging, it won't get dirt inside, and the tubing and flare nut will be protected. A flare cap for the refrigerator couldn't hurt, either.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by NuthatchBC

I also thought of just spraying expandable foam in the cavities but what if the fridge ever has to be removed? Seems like the foam would 'glue' itself to the fridge and the walls making removal almost impossible.

I would like to use the solid stryofoam stuff but can't see how I could get into the cavities from the rear. I think, like Jim said, the fridge would have to be taken out to do a good job of that.

Doug

That is what I did and you can do a decent job . Pat

[barry]

Originally Posted by NuthatchBC

Ok, then how difficult it is to pull the fridge? Could Kathy and I do it? What about disconnecting the gas? Sounds like a good place to screw something up.

Doug

Your 2012 19 should have the same 5cf fridge (RM2510) that I have in my 2012 5.0 SA.



Disconnect the gas line, 12V lines and unplug the 120V plug. 2 screws in the back and 4 in the front, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom, the bottom ones can be a little fiddly to get to. I slid mine out onto an overturned rigid container on a towel with some plywood on top to shim it up to the exact height of the fridge. Pulled it out and then just slid it down the isle so that I could access the cavity. I pulled mine on my own.



If you go onto Dometic's site you will find exploded diagrams showing where all the screws are etc. At the bottom of this page is a PDF for all models. https://www.dometic.com/en-ca/ca/pro...erator-_-30944


Page 28 shows the minimum rough opening, page 14 has a diagram of where the screws are.


Barry

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by NuthatchBC

Ok, then how difficult it is to pull the fridge? Could Kathy and I do it? What about disconnecting the gas? Sounds like a good place to screw something up.

Doug

It is really not that tough, Doug. Just disconnect the gas, DC wires after pulling the fuse, and unplug it. Yours is a different model, but I had two screws in the back holding it down to remove, and two on the front holding it in. It is a tight fit, but does slide out not too bad. Make sure you have something set up as a landing spot to set it down out of the way. It is not real heavy, but is awkward. Maybe take the cushions of the bed in your 19?

[NuthatchBC]

I'm assuming that once the fridge is removed I then would glue the rigid foam to the sides and top of the fridge, correct?

Doug

[cpaharley2008]

I would install the foam on the walls, I believe the refer is wrapped in some sort of protection, at least mine was.

[tdf-texas]

I pulled the fridge in my trailer - it took about 10 minutes. While it was out, I sealed the entire fridge cavity with two layers of reflectix and/or foil backed foam board. Now the wood is protected from moisture, there are no air leaks, and the fridge is well insulated. I also added an access panel in the top so I could get to the monitors installed above the fridge and the solar wiring plus a flush drain fixture in the bottom.

Insulating the back wall with the doubled reflectix will help the fridge when the sun is shining on that wall.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I also added an access panel in the top so I could get to the monitors installed above the fridge and the solar wiring...

Oooo, good idea. I think I will do that too next time I have the fridge out. It will be a darn sight easier to fish wires. I already have a cable for a future battery monitor display ran, but I am now thinking to put the EMS display up there too, when I finally get around to insulating the fridge better.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Oooo, good idea. I think I will do that too next time I have the fridge out. It will be a darn sight easier to fish wires. I already have a cable for a future battery monitor display ran, but I am now thinking to put the EMS display up there too, when I finally get around to insulating the fridge better.

I'm on my way up to the Boler rally - give me a shout when you get there and we can discuss ideas.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I'm on my way up to the Boler rally - give me a shout when you get there and we can discuss ideas.

Will do.