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Old 04-24-2016, 06:41 PM   #1
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Issue with the fridge

We returned from our first extended trip in our new 2016 Escape 19. Everything worked wonderfully but we encountered a problem that I can't resolve by reading the owners manual or searching the forum. Our fridge won't turn off. Poking the on/off button doesn't turn off the fridge. I've turned off the switch under the dinette seat but was curious if I'm missing something else.
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Old 04-24-2016, 06:44 PM   #2
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There is an on/off button on the control panel, you can unplug 120v in the rear compartment and turn off the propane supply and turn off the master 12v switch, it should be off by now.
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Old 04-24-2016, 06:56 PM   #3
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Thanks Jim. It's the control panel switch that won't respond when I poke it. I did shut the propane take off - and turned off the master switch - but would also at some time like to be able to just turn the fridge off.
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Old 04-24-2016, 07:03 PM   #4
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You may have to hold it for couple of seconds, if not, contact Escape for next step.
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Old 04-24-2016, 07:21 PM   #5
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Jim's correct. Just push the button and hold it for about three seconds, once it shuts off release the pressure of your finger. It's not a quick on/off.
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Old 04-24-2016, 07:27 PM   #6
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Well I've held it from 3 to 15 seconds with all of the increments in between with no luck.
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Old 04-24-2016, 07:29 PM   #7
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Are your lights then blinking? If you can't turn it off, the panel must be defective. You are hitting far left, I take it.
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Old 04-24-2016, 08:18 PM   #8
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it is the far left on/off button. Probably need to contact ETI tomorrow.
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Old 04-24-2016, 09:59 PM   #9
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I would try turning off the main house battery switch(while unhooked from shore power). This may reset the unit.
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:53 PM   #10
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Reset button is on far right if that is a possibility.
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Old 04-25-2016, 05:59 AM   #11
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fridge

Last year I had my single door fridge replaced with the new two door model at Escape and it worked well for the trip home, a couple of weeks . When we were ready to take off again the fridge would not turn on. It was under warranty so I called a local mobile service person who came out, checked everything, called dometic who had him check the same things again and they sent out a new computer board. That fixed it until the next time we were to leave and again it would not turn on. Another call to dometic and another circuit board was sent, that again fixed it and it has been fine for 10 months with a lot of use. I did buy extended warranty though just in case. We even had it plugged into a separate power source from the trailer and monitored the battery. Hard to believe two boards were bad and would show up only after sitting for a while with power off.
I washed the trailer yesterday before heading to King City, Morro Bay and Chula Vista and I checked the upper tail lights, they are good. After the last discussion on the lights I put a thin skin of silicone over the original sealant connecting the trailer to the plastic.
Now back to bed as today I need to flush the tanks and we need to load so to head out Tue. morning early. We try to give the fridge a fighting chance as it will be in the 90's for much of tomorrow as we cross the desert.
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:25 AM   #12
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Jack, you mentioned using silicone to seal your upper tail lights. I was told emphatically by an RV repair shop and have read from several sources that silicone should not be used as caulking on a trailer. Rather Proflex or a similar compound. Google it for yourself. Apparently silicone will pull away and leave a gap over time. Also nothing, including silicone will stick to silicone after the first bead goes down. Removing every last trace for recaulking with a good sealant is necessary and difficult.

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Old 04-25-2016, 11:15 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbito View Post
Removing every last trace for recaulking with a good sealant is necessary and difficult.

Bob K
It's easy to remove with the right stuff. I use a silicone wax remover called Tumbler. It takes off the old silicone and leaves the surface clean enough that even paint will stick.

The biggest problem with saying that you use silicone on this forum is that Donna D. will recoil in horror at the thought.

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Old 04-25-2016, 11:55 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
The biggest problem with saying that you use silicone on this forum is that Donna D. will recoil in horror at the thought.

Ron
I HATE that stuff. Devil's Bane! Run, run, run!


There are two all-molded towable manufacturers that use it LIBERALLY. Like tubes and tubes on every trailer. Scamp and Casita. Read up on it... temporary solution that becomes a permanent problem.


Escape and Oliver do not use silicone during manufacturing on the exterior.
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Old 04-25-2016, 03:01 PM   #15
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I hate it too, and for good reason. The stuff is great for a short time and then tends to contract, or something, and I think it develops pinholes you don't see until you see the water damage inside.
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Old 04-25-2016, 04:03 PM   #16
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Silicone is for sealing your bathtub at home- not for a fiberglass RV.


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Old 04-25-2016, 04:35 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
It's easy to remove with the right stuff. I use a silicone wax remover called Tumbler. It takes off the old silicone and leaves the surface clean enough that even paint will stick.
Presumably this is Kleen-Flo Tumbler Silicone Polish Remover. The Material Safety Data Sheet says this is a petroleum-based solvent mixture with a propellant: naphtha, 2-propanol, glycol ether EE (2-ethoxyethanol), propane (presumably the propellant), and xylene.

There are other "Tumbler"-branded products from Kleen-Flo Tumber Industries Ltd, including undercoating... so don't just look for "Tumbler". For potential users around here, I haven't noticed it in stores, but it is in the Gregg Distributors catalog... a place I have used for industrial supplies that I can't find in stores for retail consumers.

It's interesting that I don't recall seeing any previous reference to this product in the many discussions I've read about removing silicone sealant in this forum and in FiberglassRV. From the description, I assume that one would need to scrape away all but a thin film of the silicone sealant, then finish up with this chemical. It obviously would require proper and cautious handling, but seems like a straightforward tool for this purpose that's good to know about. Thanks Ron
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:03 PM   #18
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I buy it in the gallon size. Been using it for years for all sorts of things. For removing traces of the dreaded silicone I usually slice as much as I can and then use a Scotchbrite pad or something similar and rub it a bit. Works very well.

I've painted a few cars over the years and I wipe them down with this prior to spraying. I also wipe down things like aluminum and while it's not designed to be a pre-paint etch it seems to result in very good adhesion.

I don't know how available it is, I buy mine at an automotive paint store.

Ron
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:33 PM   #19
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These is great Ron! Dang silicone has caused body/paint folks to RUN out the back door... stupid fish eyes in the paint and absolutely ruin expensive work.


But, I'm still going to avoid it like the plague and continue to encourage everyone to do the same!
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