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Old 07-30-2010, 04:51 PM   #1
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Jacking point for wheel change

Hi All: Does anyone know exactly where are the jacking points for changing a wheel on the 17B? I have checked the owners manual but it does not seem to be mentioned there. I looked on the web and read that one should NEVER use any part of the axle or suspension for jacking up the trailer. Any ideas would be appreciated please.
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Old 07-30-2010, 10:43 PM   #2
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Re: Jacking point for wheel change

Hi Gabe

I believe it is not recommended to jack on the axle because some jacks have a small head on them that may bend the tube, which houses the inner torsion arm.

You can jack on frame on either side of the axle, depending on how high your jack is. There is also the axle plate that is 1/4" plate steel that protrudes on the back side of the axle if your jack will work on it.

Reace
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Old 07-31-2010, 12:18 AM   #3
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Re: Jacking point for wheel change

Hi Reace: Thanks for the reply. I shall jack up on one side of the axle or the other. I just wasn't sure, and I thought that perhaps there was a reinforced part of the frame, but I guess not. I was just being cautious.
P.S. I'll come to collect my mattress soon, Reace!!
gabe
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Old 08-05-2010, 10:09 PM   #4
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Re: Jacking point for wheel change

Good discussion, what kind of jack do others carry for the trailer? We have a 17.

Chris
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Old 08-05-2010, 10:14 PM   #5
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Re: Jacking point for wheel change

Hi Chris:
I use a hydrolic jack from Canadian Tire and some wood blocks. If I'm at home and jacking up the trailer for any reason, I use 2 ton jack stands to hold it up after I have jacked it up, so that when I crawl in there to adjust brakes or whatever, I won't be in any danger. The benefit of the hydrolic jack is that it is small and light and easy to use.
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Old 08-06-2010, 11:50 AM   #6
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Re: Jacking point for wheel change

I keep a bottle jack (small hydraulic jack), lug wrench, can of tire inflator, and assorted 2 x 6 slices of lumber (with beveled leading and trailing edges - for leveling the trailer) in a rubbermaid tote-thingee labeled "Blocks n Chocks". On the Casita I placed the jack under the frame rails. Since I haven't seen what my options are on the 5.0, I can't comment on what works on Escapes

Dave
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Old 08-06-2010, 02:26 PM   #7
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Re: Jacking point for wheel change

The screw jack that came with our Tacoma combined with the "lego" plastic blocks I use for leveling and/or jack pads is my emergency change method. Also the Tacoma lug wrench works. The less extra stuff I can carry, the less gas mileage I lose!

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Old 08-06-2010, 09:05 PM   #8
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Re: Jacking point for wheel change

Hi: All... Our emergency kit includes a plastic card that says CAA/AAA plus RV Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 08-07-2010, 05:36 PM   #9
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Re: Jacking point for wheel change

Although the hydraulic jack is strong, I never liked the limited piston travel and extra weight. It's a bit of a pain at the side of the road. Has anybody used the scissor style jack?

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Old 08-07-2010, 10:34 PM   #10
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Re: Jacking point for wheel change

Our 17B came with front and back scissor jacks (Reace said that the supplier sent the wrong ones so he went ahead and used them - my gain!) Reace said that we could actually use them to jack up the trailer and change a tire.

[Slightly off topic] - With our old Scamp 16 owners were constantly discussing the potential bending the frame using the the jacks to level the trailer. Reace said that the frame on our 17B is plenty strong and that jacking it to level won't cause any frame problems.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris R
Although the hydraulic jack is strong, I never liked the limited piston travel and extra weight. It's a bit of a pain at the side of the road. Has anybody used the scissor style jack?

Chris
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Old 08-04-2015, 08:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reace View Post
Hi Gabe

I believe it is not recommended to jack on the axle because some jacks have a small head on them that may bend the tube, which houses the inner torsion arm.

You can jack on frame on either side of the axle, depending on how high your jack is. There is also the axle plate that is 1/4" plate steel that protrudes on the back side of the axle if your jack will work on it.

Reace
I'm revitalizing this old thread to ask my mechanically minded Forum members advice about the equipment necessary to safely change a flat on our 17b (should we ever need to do so). I've quoted Reace's 2009 response to Gabe's question (which was similar to mine). I'll check with ETI to ensure Reace's comments remain valid for our 2014 17b.

As possible jacking sites Reace points to two possible areas. A) the 1/4" steel axle plate on the back side of the axle plate. B) the frame on either side of the axle. I've taken pictures of the underside of our 17b to provide visuals of this area. I'll try to upload them.

We have BCAA with RV coverage but I am considering being in a place without cell coverage. I have access to the following gear (via my certified mechanic son-in-law).
The jack has a 2000 pound limit. 2 stands.

My questions. 1) Should I go out a buy a jack with a higher pound rating? 2) It seems like the axle plate should be where I place the jack head - agree? 3) Are people placing jack stands in case the jack fails? Where?

I'd appreciate any comments. Thanks, Larry
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Old 08-04-2015, 08:56 PM   #12
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Here are some more pics
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Old 08-04-2015, 08:56 PM   #13
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And one more
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:11 PM   #14
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Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to use the gear you have. Maybe I was scarred for life by graphic training videos when I was young but one of the few absolute rules that I have is to never take a wheel off without secondary support.

If I'm in a situation without jack stands then I put the spare under the vehicle first, remove the problem tire and put it under the vehicle before putting the spare on. Not quite as good as jack stands but adds a margin of safety.

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Old 08-04-2015, 10:50 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by LarryandLiz View Post
As possible jacking sites Reace points to two possible areas. A) the 1/4" steel axle plate on the back side of the axle plate. B) the frame on either side of the axle.
...
2) It seems like the axle plate should be where I place the jack head - agree?
I like that location structurally, and it seems least likely to slip there, but it can be hard to reach - with the jack in that far, the handle might be obstructed from pumping a full stroke.

If I were jacking on the frame, I would jack behind the axle - that way, when the trailer is lifted it shifts more load onto the tongue jack (not less), which is better for stability.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryandLiz View Post
The jack has a 2000 pound limit. 2 stands.

My questions. 1) Should I go out a buy a jack with a higher pound rating?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to use the gear you have.
I agree - 2000 pounds is comfortably more than either side of the axle supports (in the case of an Escape 17')

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryandLiz View Post
3) Are people placing jack stands in case the jack fails? Where?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Maybe I was scarred for life by graphic training videos when I was young but one of the few absolute rules that I have is to never take a wheel off without secondary support.
Ron has a sound approach, but when changing a tire you don't need to put any part of your body under the trailer, so it seems reasonable to change the tire carefully without a jack stand. My biggest concern would be that the jack may not be as securely located under the trailer as a motor vehicle's tire changing jack is, so the risk off slipping off is higher.
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Old 08-04-2015, 11:03 PM   #16
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Possibly the biggest hazard relative to jack slippage is if you're changing a tire beside the road. Passing trucks Will blow your trailer sideways, so if you can, get well away from the driving lanes, or better yet, drag it off the highway.
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Old 08-05-2015, 12:38 AM   #17
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The reason I don't distinguish between using jack stands etc. when changing a tire and working under the vehicle is because, on occasion, the tire is hard to remove. Sometimes I've had to bend forward while whacking it etc. Also, if it does slip off the jack with the wheel off and no support, the trailer frame ends up close or on the ground making it more difficult to get a jack back in.

Maybe I'm overcautious but I've being supporting the vehicle when removing a wheel for so long I do it automatically.

Ron
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Old 08-05-2015, 12:42 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
The reason I don't distinguish between using jack stands etc. when changing a tire and working under the vehicle is because, on occasion, the tire is hard to remove. Sometimes I've had to bend forward while whacking it etc. Also, if it does slip off the jack with the wheel off and no support, the trailer frame ends up close or on the ground making it more difficult to get a jack back in.

Maybe I'm overcautious but I've being supporting the vehicle when removing a wheel for so long I do it automatically.

Ron
All good reasoning and sound practice
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Old 08-05-2015, 08:17 AM   #19
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Thanks for these responses. I think we will experiment at home with a tire change before our next trip. I think I've seen threads about the amount of "torque" necessary for tightening lug nuts - one more thing to read up on. When we first got our Escape I didn't even think about flat tires.

I'm wondering if most of us forum members travel with the equipment necessary for a tire change. Like I wrote earlier I have BCAA with RV coverage but think that being prepared is a good way to travel.

- trailer should be connected to the tow for stability right? I read a passing comment in one of my web searches. And of course block the other wheel.

Larry
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Old 08-05-2015, 11:14 AM   #20
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Yes, practice is always good. Better to learn when not under pressure to get it done. As much as I like my full BCAA coverage, being able to change the tire yourself is good because you don't always have cell phone coverage.

Under normal conditions, If the trailer is attached to the tug blocking the other wheel isn't really necessary presuming your tug's secure with its' parking brake.

Don't worry about torque. I'm not saying you don't have to, I'm saying if you have to change a tire and don't have a torque wrench, don't worry about it. The specified torque works out to be about what a person of average build, pushing as hard as they can (by hand, not using a foot) on the wheel wrench. I've checked my "by hand" torque with a torque wrench and it's usually so close I just leave it. That's my experience anyway, others might be horrified at my downplaying using a torque wrench.

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