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Old 01-23-2016, 12:49 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Hi Pat- yes, the rear three tail lights up near roof on the 21. 19' Escapes are different and don't have the same configuration.

This warping issue bothers me though. Seems like this is a design defect.
I didn't know about extra lights at time of our build but I am glad I didn't now . But I think I will make sure all lights are sealed good . Knock on wood have not except for porch light had any problems . Maybe if the lights are not perfectly flat on trailer body it can be a problem or the lights up high are exposed more to weather . Don't know but sorry you are having these problems . Pat
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Old 01-23-2016, 05:56 AM   #62
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The Escape 21 model has 3 flat areas along the top, built into the mold to accommodate the taillights whereas on other models any extra set of lights are mounted on a curved surface, like on the 19' model with the vertical lights on each side of the rear window. If you notice the stock lower taillights all have a flat surface for mounting the lights.
Not sure why there are gaps between two flat surfaces as there would seem to be between a flat and curved surface area, as the curved shell and the flat lights?
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:07 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
The Escape 21 model has 3 flat areas along the top, built into the mold to accommodate the taillights whereas on other models any extra set of lights are mounted on a curved surface, like on the 19' model with the vertical lights on each side of the rear window. If you notice the stock lower taillights all have a flat surface for mounting the lights.
Not sure why there are gaps between two flat surfaces as there would seem to be between a flat and curved surface area, as the curved shell and the flat lights?
Hi: cpaharley2008... The 5.0TA also has the flat areas of the mold built in for the high brake/tail lamps. I feel the warping of the long LED lens is sun damage. The lower brake/tail units are fine and somewhat shielded from the sun. Alf
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:09 AM   #64
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So the warping happens in extreme heat/sun versus plain aging? Do the lights return to their normal position when in the shade?
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:11 AM   #65
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BTW Alf, I'm going to make a snowball and freeze it, the next time I see you you will have it, you can not escape all the snow by going south...
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:59 AM   #66
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Why no silicone products?
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:34 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
So the warping happens in extreme heat/sun versus plain aging? Do the lights return to their normal position when in the shade?
Nope. Back at the start of this issue I posted pictures and showed that the lights in the middle were 3/8 inch high in the center. As the lights warp, one needs to add caulk to fill the gap until warping stops, and it does. Again, why Proflex is the best choice. You clean the area and add to what is there.
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:53 AM   #68
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Quote:
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Hi: cpaharley2008... The 5.0TA also has the flat areas of the mold built in for the high brake/tail lamps. I feel the warping of the long LED lens is sun damage. The lower brake/tail units are fine and somewhat shielded from the sun. Alf
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Sun damage has been my theory since day one as the problem showed up after a trip where we spent weeks around 100 degrees with the trailer in full sun. Replacing the light does no good as the problem will reoccur with a new light, I know!. Recaulking is the best solution. As to why... I think it has to do with the black back of the light. The black back gets extremely hot, as I have climbed up there to feel them. Since the lights are attached only at the ends, the only place to expand is to warp in the middle and pull away from the trailer separating the caulk. It would be interesting to try but I think a white backed light might not respond so dramatically. Again, keep the top caulked to prevent water getting in but leave a small gap in the caulk on the bottom for water to escape.
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Old 01-23-2016, 10:17 AM   #69
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Why no silicone products?
RUN... It's the Devil's Bane!

As Greg said in post #50 .."found pure silicone to not have sufficient adhesion properties."

The only thing that will stick to silicone is more silicone.

It is a temporary fix that becomes a permanent problem.

You come around my trailer with silicone and I'll get after you with a fork.

Really, there are many better caulks. The ONLY thing good about silicone is it's cheap. This is one thing you shouldn't cheap out on.
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:45 AM   #70
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Jan. 23 report on our 17:

After following this thread since its inception, I decided it's time for an inspection of our 17A. We picked up "The Pullman" 4 months ago, and it has been in sunlight (and something called rain) ever since. When parked here in sunny So.Cal., the rear faces due south. Temperature range has been 38°F (3°C) to about 90°F (32°C).
The upper set of brake/tail lights are above the rear window in an area of the body that is almost flat. There is a gradual inward bow of the trailer body of about 1/8" (3 mm) at the center of each light fixture housing. ETI caulked the top and both sides. The bottom is not caulked.

The lower set of brake/tail lights is in a flat area, with similar installation.

All other exterior lights (porch, marker, ..) are caulked top, two sides.

I find no evidence of light housing bowing or insulation cracking. There is no evidence of water or moisture.

We'll see about the condition after a summer sojourn to the desert.
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:29 PM   #71
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I added upper brake/taillights to my 17B & stupidly overtightened the screws so that the fixtures bent & matched the curve of the trailer. Within a year, both LED strips cracked, allowing water into the fixture. No leaks into the trailer, but both fixtures died.

The replacements (one by Escape & one by me) were tightened until the fixture just started to bend, but no further. I followed Escape's procedure & caulked on the sides & top with Proflex, leaving the bottom open to allow drainage. No leaks so far...
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Old 01-23-2016, 02:20 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
RUN... It's the Devil's Bane!

As Greg said in post #50 .."found pure silicone to not have sufficient adhesion properties."

The only thing that will stick to silicone is more silicone.

It is a temporary fix that becomes a permanent problem.

You come around my trailer with silicone and I'll get after you with a fork.

Really, there are many better caulks. The ONLY thing good about silicone is it's cheap. This is one thing you shouldn't cheap out on.
Donna, the reason I asked is because when I installed the mounting kit for the solar panel, the caulking tube that ETI supplied was all dried up so I used silicone. Fortunately, it hasn't leaked, but guess I better replace it with the good stuff. Thanks for answering!
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:01 PM   #73
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Just caulked the three upper running lights that had warped. Had some white proflex that Reace sent for something else and hadn't used. Seem to prefer that over the clear, although if it were a black aluminum window frame that would be different of course.

It's not easy to apply a bead that looks like factory though. Have done a LOT of painting and own a pro caulk gun. Maybe the material was a little old, but it didn't flow easily and you have to use mineral spirits to tool with. Would advise using tape not only on the lens at the edge of the original caulk but on the fiberglass as well. Good news is that it is up high where only I will see it when washing. Hopefully no more water intrusion.
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Old 01-23-2016, 10:23 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Just caulked the three upper running lights that had warped. Had some white proflex that Reace sent for something else and hadn't used. Seem to prefer that over the clear, although if it were a black aluminum window frame that would be different of course.

It's not easy to apply a bead that looks like factory though. Have done a LOT of painting and own a pro caulk gun. Maybe the material was a little old, but it didn't flow easily and you have to use mineral spirits to tool with. Would advise using tape not only on the lens at the edge of the original caulk but on the fiberglass as well. Good news is that it is up high where only I will see it when washing. Hopefully no more water intrusion.
Pat
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