Thanks for the tip, Jim. The X-Chocks are on my Amazon wish list and will be part of my first accessory delivery. They would help (and the reviews appear to be fantastic) but I think I would need even more support in my case. It is hard to tell from your picture, but I think the slope I am on is even greater than yours.
I did a quick check of my driveway slope with a level line. It is roughly 1 to 12, about 1" per foot where the axels would be sitting and a little steeper towards the hitch. Looks like there is ~3' between the axels, so the front axel would be 3" lower than the back if the trailer were leveled in place with the wheels on the ground. I suppose I could fashion a massive shim for the front wheels (e.g. back up, put shim into place, pull forward onto it) but that would still assume that I would need 3" of suspension play betwen the axels while attached to the tow vehicle - and that I could safely get the thing unhooked and back on again in such a levered scenario.
I estimate the front hitch would need to be cranked up by about 12" to make it level.
I suppose I could make a heavy cement pillar for under the tongue jack if I really wanted to unhitch and work on the trailer in the drive, but would that be sufficient?
So that is why my initial thought was that I will never be able to unhitch and safely level the trailer in my drive. Parking the trailer on a 1 to 12 slope without truly anchoring it by some mechanism seems precarious to me. But never having never leveled a trailer before, I do not have any experience to fall back on.
Anyone know what vertical travel distance the trailer axels are spec'ed to handle safely, and (assuming a massive enough base underneath) what the sane limit is as to how high the front hitch should be cranked above the hitching plane?
Or would custom scissor jacks fore and aft paired with some massive, no-skid shims do the trick?
This is, of course, on my (long) list of items to discuss with Reace, but I would like to know from your experiences what is doable.