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Old 10-16-2015, 02:33 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medora View Post
Laura, house locks won't work because they wouldn't fit the door/frame. That's why this really sucks -- there are very few viable options.

BTW, I did forget to post that when I asked Reace about the Bauer keyless RV locks, he said he wasn't 100% sure but didn't believe they would fit an Escape.

Contemplating a career change, to "lock entrepreneur,"

~e
RVs with flat entry doors have more entry lock designs to choose from. I could be wrong but the Escape's molded door indentation limits lock choices. Will know more once I have the trailer.
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Old 10-16-2015, 11:10 PM   #42
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RVs typically have a flush outside door handle, and the usual protruding knob of a building lockset wouldn't be appropriate. Building locksets are designed for much more door thickness than in available in most RVs, including an Escape. Conventional RVs usually have a screen door against the inside face of the door with very little clearance, so a conventional building doorknob would stick out of the door too far.
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Old 10-16-2015, 11:16 PM   #43
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I wasn't clear. I meant RV style locks not limited to the shape of a molded door compared to a flat RV door. If that makes a difference. No house style lock set.
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Old 10-16-2015, 11:35 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santiago View Post
I wasn't clear. I meant RV style locks not limited to the shape of a molded door compared to a flat RV door. If that makes a difference. No house style lock set.
Yes, that was clear, and I agree that a larger space might open up more options... but it may not help, as good RV locksets are probably rare.

I was responding to Laura's post about house hardware.
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Old 10-16-2015, 11:36 PM   #45
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Many locks are too wide for the mere 4" or so width of the recessed lock area.
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Old 10-16-2015, 11:49 PM   #46
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I wonder if some of these issues are as wide-spread as one might come to believe, from reading forums.
Knock on wood.
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Old 10-17-2015, 12:40 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
RVs typically have a flush outside door handle, and the usual protruding knob of a building lockset wouldn't be appropriate. Building locksets are designed for much more door thickness than in available in most RVs, including an Escape. Conventional RVs usually have a screen door against the inside face of the door with very little clearance, so a conventional building doorknob would stick out of the door too far.
Brian true of the lock sets . But on our previous camper door I installed a house deadbolt lock . Felt more secure . However the door was thicker then Escape door . Someone I think on Fiberglass Forum added a better locking system to his trailer by adding wood behind the lock for thickness . He did a real nice job . Pat
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Old 10-17-2015, 11:29 AM   #48
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I think that Iowa Dave's reminder to check for loose screws, keeping the locks well lubricated and avoiding the deadbolt when outside are the ideas I'm going with. After doing some web searching, an easily obtainable lube that seems to come highly recommended by some locksmiths is TriLube. They say is doesn't get sticky inside the lock, nor attract too much dust.
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Old 10-17-2015, 11:41 AM   #49
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Love Trilube; been using it for decades - even back when speedometers had cable drive........
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Old 10-17-2015, 11:46 AM   #50
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I used to use it on my bike chains, but kinda spendy for that. Being cheap, I've gone with whatever dry lube is on sale at Menards for bike chains and save the TriLube for "special" applications.
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