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Old 10-12-2015, 09:23 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
After returning from the Smokies in 2013, my deadbolt would not open, just spin. After thinking about access for several hours, cause I did not want to call a locksmith, here's what I was able to do.
1. Empty passenger side front box
2. Push open under seat access door
3. Insert makeup mirror on the floor and tip so I could see the lock
4. Feed a 4 foot long one inch square wooden stick into the camper
5. Using all of the backwards spacial logic I could muster, pushed the deadbolt to open.
6. Open the door.
7. Wrench right shoulder patting myself on the back.
8. Take Rita to lunch with the money I saved.
Worked for me. Elapsed time about 10 minutes
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Old 10-12-2015, 09:32 AM   #22
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Locked out

I am a little large for getting into the side box but the lure of saving money was strong. The indecent exposure police were not in the neighborhood that day. Just thought relating the story might bring a smile and bail someone out some day. I have a backpack in the Highlander all the time with a signaling mirror that could be utilized and always have a knife to cut a stick or open a bottle of beer. I live the Scout motto to the best of my ability.
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Old 10-12-2015, 10:56 AM   #23
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Dave, you are officially My Hero. And I'm thinking specific to these RV locksets. Jeesus. I'm both amazed and disturbed by the number of stories people are telling.

Escape Artist -- does your keypad seem reliable? More so than your memory at least?

And I'm actually starting to think now we SHOULD have a "worst case scenario" kit as we have definitely had other stuff that should be reliable go awry on trips. Maybe I'll start another thread for suggestions, if there's not one somewhere already?
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Old 10-12-2015, 11:36 AM   #24
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Hi: medora... We don't have the number pad... just the "Brain freeze" part!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 10-12-2015, 12:12 PM   #25
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Not to belabor the issue, but was the red lever end pointed left or right? Is it possible to lock oneself out that way? I haven't tried it. Tammy told me not to lock the deadbolt from the outside, as there may be an issue with that. While I do lock my door, I've never done the bolt from the outside.
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Old 10-12-2015, 12:31 PM   #26
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In our case it definitely wasn't the deadbolt -- we never use it. I had literally JUST unlocked the basic lock (is that called the passkey?) walked in, set my stuff down, walked back out (closing the door) -- and then tried almost immediately to get back in. It required the key to "fix" this (I handed the keys to my husband through the window once I crawled back in).

I'm going to email ETI today just to see if they do like any other model locks better. I'm guessing that if they did they'd USE them on these models, but ...?
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Old 10-12-2015, 12:45 PM   #27
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I'm glad you were able to get back in. It may not be a bad idea to leave a "climbable in" window unlocked.
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Old 10-12-2015, 12:56 PM   #28
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For what it's worth, had this happened with us on the INSIDE and the keys on the OUTSIDE, I'm not entirely sure we would have gotten out without a window escape. I think that's very similar to the recall problem (though I think that had to do with the deadbolt).
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Old 10-12-2015, 01:48 PM   #29
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I looked at keyless locks and also asked ETI and they said they would get back to me on it but never did. The keyless ones I saw could not be installed because the mold is recessed for the lock and they were too wide. Can't tell if that is the case with the Bauer keyless lock without looking at measurements.
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:56 AM   #30
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Here's what Reace said in email about this:

There seems to be a few different manufacturers of these latches, however they must all get their parts from the same supplier. We now use Bauer brand latch and they too have glitches. Although small glitches, they are better than the Fastec lock. The Fastec lock could jamb and not let you get your key in or out. The Bauer seems to lock unexpectedly, but you can still use your key.

Not sure if that helps.


Anyone have bad experiences with the Bauers?
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Old 10-15-2015, 09:29 AM   #31
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Does anybody know which Bauer model is the correct replacement one for the Fastec we have?
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:24 AM   #32
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So how am I to know which I got? Fastec or Bauer?

Guessing Fastec.
Attached Thumbnails
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:44 AM   #33
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Quote:
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I'm glad you were able to get back in. It may not be a bad idea to leave a "climbable in" window unlocked.
Then what's the point of even locking your doors? Someone's able to get in, one way or the other. Yes, I know, if you go through the door you look like you "belong" to that trailer, but still.

I think it's crazy that there's problems with these locks. At least if it's at home there's a locksmith nearby or more easily reachable than if you're out in the toolies. You might not have cell coverage to call one anyway.

and you should not be expected to take the hinges off your door just to get in. That's super crazy.

So, now I have to be paranoid that I'll get locked out or in of my trailer (when we get one). I'm not skinny nor limber enough to crawl through a window.


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Old 10-15-2015, 10:46 AM   #34
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So how am I to know which I got? Fastec or Bauer?

Guessing Fastec.
The keys for our trailer say 'bauer'
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Old 10-15-2015, 12:28 PM   #35
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So how am I to know which I got? Fastec or Bauer?

Guessing Fastec.
Yours says FIT on it.
FIT = Fastec International Corporation
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Old 10-15-2015, 04:12 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medora View Post
Here's what Reace said in email about this:

There seems to be a few different manufacturers of these latches, however they must all get their parts from the same supplier. We now use Bauer brand latch and they too have glitches. Although small glitches, they are better than the Fastec lock. The Fastec lock could jamb and not let you get your key in or out. The Bauer seems to lock unexpectedly, but you can still use your key.

Not sure if that helps.


Anyone have bad experiences with the Bauers?
That's interesting, because my Bauer jammed at the midpoint and I couldn't get the key in or out. I replaced it with a Fastec, which is stiffer and it makes closing the door from the inside easier. I wouldn't replace a Fastec with a Bauer, you could have the same problems. Incidentally, after removing the Bauer, I twisted the key with pliers. The key bent a bit but it unjambed the lock.
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Old 10-16-2015, 09:48 AM   #37
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Looks like there's a serious business opportunity here for someone able/willing to make a decent RV lock. Any locksmiths out there?

(I'm with you Laura -- being told the best (only?) solution in some cases may be to remove the door, I really gotta wonder. I'll keep keys in multiple places now, but still ...)
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Old 10-16-2015, 10:22 AM   #38
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Looks like there's a serious business opportunity here for someone able/willing to make a decent RV lock. Any locksmiths out there?

(I'm with you Laura -- being told the best (only?) solution in some cases may be to remove the door, I really gotta wonder. I'll keep keys in multiple places now, but still ...)
I'm clueless about the logistics of it, but why can't a regular house lock be put on a trailer door? We have the lever type handles on all of our doors (inside and out) as when my tendinitis flares up, it's really hard to turn knobs. We've had the locks in place for over 10 years and have never had a single problem (knock on wood!) with them.

When I rented a motorhome for a month earlier this year, I was not impressed in the least with how you opened the door - pulling the black latch thingie was a pain (literally, some times). And I couldn't always get the deadbolt to lock from the outside. I thought it was me, but now I'm wondering if it was the lock itself. At least I could have still gotten in through the cab of the vehicle if problems arose.

I watched the latest episode of Mike Rowe's Somebody's Gotta Do It yesterday and they had a segment on TechShop where folks can join and use their tools to build stuff. Including prototypes of stuff they later get funded on Kickstarter or some such. (Square was one product built there that's become a multi-bazillion dollar company.) I'm sure we'd all fling some money in via crowdfunding if a lock worked really well without any problems.
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Old 10-16-2015, 10:33 AM   #39
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So how am I to know which I got? Fastec or Bauer?

Guessing Fastec.
Yes Myron. The FTC stamping is Fastec. The Fastec I replaced my Bauer with is chromed metal and is stiffer than the composite Bauer ETI is now using. And I agree someone beets to make a lock that is not a piece of junk.
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Old 10-16-2015, 11:07 AM   #40
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Laura, house locks won't work because they wouldn't fit the door/frame. That's why this really sucks -- there are very few viable options.

BTW, I did forget to post that when I asked Reace about the Bauer keyless RV locks, he said he wasn't 100% sure but didn't believe they would fit an Escape.

Contemplating a career change, to "lock entrepreneur,"

~e
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