major leak behind the shower - HELP

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Rybbby... Since back then I never satisfactorially re-installed the furnace - its face flat refused to close up the last quarter inch to the paneling, no matter how much I wailed on it with a 16 pounder - the face plate never screwed tight to the wall --Now I probably can wiggle that back end so it properly seats into the receiving exterior vent. If I ever do have a flood back there at least now I know there won't be any panicky troubleshooting.

OK, we'll go with "it was to improve something".

I take it you'll screw down a board so it can easily be removed if necessary. Not a bad idea.

[MyronL]

Since it's very well factory stapled down to the framing, as you can see, not being real careful with a flat bar can ruin the thin bottom panel. Consider myself lucky only minor damage to it. I forgot how much you can see when the panel is out.

[cpaharley2008]

Has anyone given any thought to somehow attach a small plastic drain hose to the heater side discharge and direct some needed heat into the bathroom wall, the proximity of the needed heat in the bath is a tempting modification?

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Has anyone given any thought to somehow attach a small plastic drain hose to the heater side discharge and direct some needed heat into the bathroom wall, the proximity of the needed heat in the bath is a tempting modification?

There's actually a cutout/panel on the side of the furnace for adding a duct. I don't think I'd use plastic. Probably just run a short piece of metal ducting through the wall into the bath, and then a louvered cover of some kind to keep water out. You first Jim.

[cpaharley2008]

It's on my list, thanks for the info......

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Since it's very well factory stapled down to the framing, as you can see, not being real careful with a flat bar can ruin the thin bottom panel. Consider myself lucky only minor damage to it. I forgot how much you can see when the panel is out.

I agree and if the OP doesn't want to add an access/storage door then removing the closet bottom would be the way to go. Depending on what the problem is it might still be a difficult situation to get pex crimpers, at least mine, into. If it's the hot water line it could be pre-fabbed and put in place with those connections already made. The cold water line, not so much.

I like the thought of having the closet bottom easily removable and I do have some 1/4" plywood that would make a nice new bottom. I think that it'd be good have access to that area if I encounter problems on the road with either the furnace or plumbing. And it would sure make running wires from front to back on that side easier.

Ron

[Ron in BC]

Hey, while you have it open, snap a photo of the top of the grey water vent pipe. Does yours have a cheater valve on it or is it open?

Ron

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Has anyone given any thought to somehow attach a small plastic drain hose to the heater side discharge and direct some needed heat into the bathroom wall, the proximity of the needed heat in the bath is a tempting modification?

Originally Posted by rbryan4

There's actually a cutout/panel on the side of the furnace for adding a duct. I don't think I'd use plastic. Probably just run a short piece of metal ducting through the wall into the bath, and then a louvered cover of some kind to keep water out. You first Jim.

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

It's on my list, thanks for the info......

Proceed with caution. I can’t speak to the new furnace but the original used by Escape that many of us have is the Atwood Hydroflame Everest Star 8012-II. This is made to be front discharge only with no ducts (despite the duct cover plate on the side). The 7912-II model is the same heat output but has a different motor (draws 3.4 amps versus 1.8 for the 8012) and blower wheel to accomodate the extra static pressure of a side duct. What you describe can be done, but it likely requires a furnace change. Unfortunately these are hard to come by now since they are discontinued.

See page 1 “Ducting Configurations”.
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...0SP%201.08.pdf

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Proceed with caution. I can’t speak to the new furnace but the original used by Escape that many of us have is the Atwood Hydroflame Everest Star 8012-II. This is made to be front discharge only with no ducts (despite the duct cover plate on the side)...

Good catch - the change in furnace was effective 2015 Feb 11, so a 2015 model year Escape could have either one.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Good catch - the change in furnace was effective 2015 Feb 11, so a 2015 model year Escape could have either one.

It looks to be the same issue with the new Atwood furnace too. The 12,000 BTU Atwood AFSAD12 cannot be ducted, but the AFAD12 can be.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Hey, while you have it open, snap a photo of the top of the grey water vent pipe. Does yours have a cheater valve on it or is it open?

Ron

Yes Myron inquiring minds want to know ? Pat

[MyronL]

No cheater valve. I didn't even know there was a tank vent pipe there.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by MyronL

No cheater valve.

Thanks Myron . Are you going to add one ? Pat

[MyronL]

Probably not. Haven't had issues with venting.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Probably not. Haven't had issues with venting.

Me neither . Will follow your lead . Pat

[Ron in BC]

It's not a venting issue and it's not a problem for me either.

But some folks have been bothered by bad smells. That open vent leads to the grey water tank. There is a very shallow collection of elbows that ETI calls a trap between the vent and the tank. I think that there's a good chance that it can empty because of trailer motion or partially dry out creating a path for tank odors to escape from the uncapped vent.

For folks bothered by apparent tank odors, capping it with a cheater vent might end their problem.

Ron

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

It's not a venting issue and it's not a problem for me either.

But some folks have been bothered by bad smells. That open vent leads to the grey water tank. There is a very shallow collection of elbows that ETI calls a trap between the vent and the tank. I think that there's a good chance that it can empty because of trailer motion or partially dry out creating a path for tank odors to escape from the uncapped vent.

For folks bothered by apparent tank odors, capping it with a cheater vent might end their problem.

Ron

You guys . Makes sense to cap it . Myron I think we should cap it . You are lucky , you have it all open . Maybe we should listen to Ron here . Pat

[Great Eggstrications]

I had never heard the term "cheater vent" before, but Mr. Google certainly had. Here is a seemingly good explanation for those who might be interested. Sounds like they're ok in RV's, and in particular not so much of a danger if tied into the grey tank.

Cheater Vents, the ugly truth

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by MyronL

No cheater valve. I didn't even know there was a tank vent pipe there.

In the 2017 21's, the vent is piped to the roof using flex hose and exits through a roof vent. The hose takes up a little of the back corner of the cabinet but lets the grey tank pull air in when draining and breathe out when water is entering the tank without odors getting in the trailer.

Would doing something like this be worth doing?

Originally Posted by Great Eggstrications

I had never heard the term "cheater vent" before, but Mr. Google certainly had. Here is a seemingly good explanation for those who might be interested. Sounds like they're ok in RV's, and in particular not so much of a danger if tied into the grey tank.

Cheater Vents, the ugly truth

A cheater vent is OK to be added to a system that already has a main vent but doesn't quite replace the need for the main vent. The grey tank needs to breathe both in and out, filling and emptying - a cheater vent only lets it breathe in.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Great Eggstrications

I had never heard the term "cheater vent" before, but Mr. Google certainly had. Here is a seemingly good explanation for those who might be interested. Sounds like they're ok in RV's, and in particular not so much of a danger if tied into the grey tank.

Cheater Vents, the ugly truth

Now I am confused after reading . I think maybe going back to orignal take on this and leave it alone ? Pat