Master Electrical Switch Relocation - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 02-20-2018, 02:18 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Parksville (Vancouver Island), British Columbia
Trailer: 17B
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Master Electrical Switch Relocation

We have a 17B (2017, December). The large dinette will be in the bed position, mostly. It is that way now with the trailer sitting in the driveway waiting warmer weather.

I have the master switch in the off position to prevent battery drain. But when we want to go into the trailer and turn on lights or run the heater to help speed up the off-gassing I have to crawl on my belly to get to the switch location. It's not impossible but I would prefer a more accessible location. I recall seeing comments about relocating the switch but my search did not bear fruit.

(As an aside: All our friends, some neighbours, and passers-by have wanted full tours of our new trailer. Thus, more frequent switching the power on!)

The stock switch is a toggle; it is rather long and could be subject to snagging. I think it might be better to change it to a rocker-type unit when I relocate the switch.

If you have relocated your switch or seriously considered doing so:
a) where is the relocated position?
b) what should I look for in a high quality rocker switch? I presume there would be a load specification I would need to attend to.
c) what gage wire should I use to make the run from the current switch location to the new spot?

TIA,
David
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Old 02-20-2018, 03:25 PM   #2
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Todtman View Post
b) what should I look for in a high quality rocker switch? I presume there would be a load specification I would need to attend to.
That wire carries all of the 12 volt DC current used from the battery when not on shore power. While there is no master fuse in the WFCO Power Center, there should be one at the battery end of that wire (I think 50 amps); the size of that fuse indicates the maximum current that Escape has planned for the wire and switch to handle.
When plugged into shore power, so that the converter/charger in the Power Center has power, the maximum current through the switch and wire is the 55 amps that the converter/charger can put out (although it would be limited by the same fuse at the battery end as current flow from the battery).

If you don't mind a bulky switch, any of the many rotary battery isolation switches would have lots of capacity. Some Escape owners have put in this type of switch, mostly to address the accidental snagging issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Todtman View Post
c) what gage wire should I use to make the run from the current switch location to the new spot?
Once you know what current you're planning for, you have a minimum wire gauge.

Thicker wire will have less resistance, causing a smaller voltage difference between the converter/charger and the battery, and improving how fully charged the battery gets on shore power. This is the same issue as frequently discussed regarding charging with the solar charge controller.

The easiest approach would be to just copy whatever Escape used, although if the wire length is substantially increased by the new location, then one step larger would be sensible.
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Old 02-20-2018, 04:09 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Todtman View Post
We have a 17B (2017, December). The large dinette will be in the bed position, mostly. It is that way now with the trailer sitting in the driveway waiting warmer weather.

I have the master switch in the off position to prevent battery drain. But when we want to go into the trailer and turn on lights or run the heater to help speed up the off-gassing I have to crawl on my belly to get to the switch location. It's not impossible but I would prefer a more accessible location. I recall seeing comments about relocating the switch but my search did not bear fruit.

(As an aside: All our friends, some neighbours, and passers-by have wanted full tours of our new trailer. Thus, more frequent switching the power on!)

The stock switch is a toggle; it is rather long and could be subject to snagging. I think it might be better to change it to a rocker-type unit when I relocate the switch.

If you have relocated your switch or seriously considered doing so:
a) where is the relocated position?
b) what should I look for in a high quality rocker switch? I presume there would be a load specification I would need to attend to.
c) what gage wire should I use to make the run from the current switch location to the new spot?

TIA,
David
Different trailer but same idea. I did not like the switch pole stabbing me in the leg and it was a pain to access with the table down. On mine due to the short run ( less than 15 feet ) I could have gone with the same size 6 AWG wire but since I had 4 AWG decided to use it. The thermal fuse is rated at 50 amp and the new switch is rated at 275 continuous amps. I ran new wire from the thermal to the new switch then from the switch to inside the DC power center.
To prevent possible short circuits I used plastic caps on the switch and self fusing tape. The old switch was not protected.
I filled in the old hole from the previous switch and used a piece of oak tape to cover it. I may paint the cap black to match the rest of the trailer , but I can do that at any time.
Here is what I used for a switch.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Escape will install this switch for you. I do not know if they will also move it to the other end of the cabinet if anyone is thinking of doing this to a trailer in production.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg new position.jpg (193.4 KB, 78 views)
File Type: jpg original spot.jpg (206.3 KB, 62 views)
File Type: jpg from thermal.jpg (121.2 KB, 63 views)
File Type: jpg switch back.jpg (218.8 KB, 63 views)
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Old 02-20-2018, 04:29 PM   #4
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If your battery is on the outside you might just want to put a wing nut on the stud and remove the cable. Or you can get one of these green knob things anywhere that fits on a battery post and use the hole on the other end to bolt a proper size wire lug to.
If you want a switch inside, Princes Auto (since you are in Canada) has this yellow one on sale.
If you want to locate it behind a panel then Amazon.ca has one. And if you want it cheaper and dont mind a longer wait you can get it here . 12V Car Truck Boat Camper Battery Isolator Disconnect Cut Off Power Kill Switch for All Cars Switches & Relays High Quality -in Car Switches & Relays from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
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Old 02-20-2018, 08:38 PM   #5
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Do you have solar or can you plug in to AC power at your residence? If so, there would be no need to turn the switch off as the battery is always being charged.
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Old 02-20-2018, 11:45 PM   #6
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Trailer: 2012- 17'B.... 2016 Tacoma SR5 TRD
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I can with a little effort get my hand between the wall and the table top .
beats crawling under . Still plan to move it some day.
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Old 02-21-2018, 08:07 AM   #7
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Location: Idaho Falls, Idaho
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21; previously a 2012 Escape 19
Posts: 64
I replaced our switch with a Blue Sea 6006:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/600...th__Knob_-_Red
mounted under the rear seat of our U-shaped dinette. I then filled the hole left in the side bench with a USB charger.
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