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Old 12-23-2013, 12:38 AM   #1
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Matching paint with outer shell color?

I'm needing 'a little' body work on the lower shell of my 19'. Can anybody help with info on paint matching? Maybe a paint code?

Thanks,

Greg
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Old 12-23-2013, 01:34 AM   #2
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Credit goes to LBaranyai.
Krylon Fusion 42322 Dover White.
I followed her lead and used it on my propane tank cover. Beauty.
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Old 12-23-2013, 05:27 AM   #3
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Depending on the repair and how extensive, I'd contact ETI and consider gel coat. I wouldn't want to start spot paint spraying a newer Escape. Paint ages at a different rate than gel coat. Or maybe if it's an area that's going to take abuse.... bedliner would be a better choice? Greg, what happened?
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:10 PM   #4
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What happened........? It seems that towing with an Escape is really like towing with nothing back there. I was going thru a gate to put it away and didn't give enough room to a pole in a turn and the pole won.

Could have been much worse but about 5" of the crease went thru the fiberglass. I'm finding a surprising few body shops that know fiberglass. On advice of a friend, I sought out a hot rod shop that does Corvettes and custom body work. Not cheap but then my Escape is worth every penny to keep it's youthful (7 month old) glow!

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Old 12-23-2013, 10:24 PM   #5
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So, what does the shop want to do? Are they going to paint or fix and re-gel coat? Just curious. I feel your pain. I haven't damaged my trailer, but did back it into a 1967 Mustang and shoved the passenger door in! OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:34 PM   #6
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So, what does the shop want to do? Are they going to paint or fix and re-gel coat? Just curious. I feel your pain. I haven't damaged my trailer, but did back it into a 1967 Mustang and shoved the passenger door in! OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!
It was indeed painful to see! I was amazed how far the side panel bowed in without further damage.

I selected the shop that's going to cut away the damage, rebuild it with fiberglass and epoxy filler. Then he's going to repaint about half the side and recoat it. Think he said gelcoat but might have said clearcoat. I'm not crazy about clearcoat since it doesn't flex. He knows what he's doing so I'm going to stay out of the way and just write the check.

One shop that actually came recommended by a Casita friend said they were going to fill the crack with epoxy and spot paint it. Not my Escape, thank you very much!
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:40 PM   #7
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Have you tried some boat shops that do repairs. I know there are a few of them that deal with fiberglass. I bet they could do some gelcoat on it too.
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:48 PM   #8
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I can only offer what I've learned from reading over the years. I mentioned earlier that gel coat and paint age differently. Actually paint "lasts" longer. Gel coat ages where it gets a beige pattina. New formulated paint doesn't change color. Just be aware. Okay? If it were me... and it's not... I'd check with a boat repair place like Jim mentioned. "Years" from now you (probably) don't want a trailer that looks like a painted pony.
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:00 PM   #9
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I didn't think paint sounded good. Don't see how it could have the same glossy finish and might be too conspicuous. Boat shop idea is a good one. Thanks, Jim.
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Old 12-24-2013, 01:39 AM   #10
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Just in case anyone is interested, here's a series of videos that shows DIY small chip and scratch repair in gelcoat. I've used West Marine for boat building supplies in the past, they provide quality products. The videos in the series are daisy chained together so they play one after the other on their own. I've tried this on canoes with mixed results, it's not easy getting all the sanding scratches out to a perfect finish. Won't help you out in your case Greggo, a boat shop must have some way of spraying the Gelcoat on after doing the FG repair.
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:46 AM   #11
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Good videos, padlin. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 12-24-2013, 11:06 AM   #12
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2X on checking with boat repair shops. There are so few fiberglass automobiles compared to fiberglass boats that they will have better know how & do a better job repairing the scratch.
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:23 PM   #13
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Good news. I have some matching gelcoat coming to refinish the repaired area. I'm thinking about doing a tutorial on how to repair minor damage to fiberglass trailers.

Greg
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Old 05-28-2014, 02:24 PM   #14
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Greg - Would be interested in hearing how your "project" turned out ... and how you went about with the repair AND where you found the material. We had a bit of a run-in with (of all things) a semi. Seems when you have a major accident, wall-to-wall traffic, a merging driver who is positive a big rig will let you in, paired with a big rig driver that's not paying attention (think cell phone), you have a disaster in the making. Considering all that, we were extremely lucky. However, in trying to remove the vivid blue paint (who paints their big rig Robin's Egg Blue anyway?), I noticed a small, hairline crack in the fiberglass. John is ready to drive it to a boat repair shop; however, we're getting ready for a two week camping trip and I'm thinking that a fiberglass filler might be better at this point.
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Old 05-28-2014, 06:08 PM   #15
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Mine? The "dent" repair turned out ok. A hot rod shop did the repair. They cut out the damaged area and patched it from the inside, shaped it with some fiberglass bondo and re-shot it with the gelcoat I got from Reace. It came home from the shop a little darker than the rest but has aged lighter (or I've just gotten used to it).

Hard to say what to do with yours. If it's not structural, doesn't leak, you're not in danger of falling out of the hole, heck I'd go and just keep a roll of duct tape handy. I bought some white duct tape to cover my dent from Orchard Home Supply that honestly, looked so good, I lived with it for awhile and went camping.
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Old 05-28-2014, 06:33 PM   #16
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Ha!! Another good use for duct tape! Actually, the crack is so small that I'm thinking of trying the West Marine Match n Patch (EVERCOAT Match'N'Patch Large Gelcoat Repair Kit | West Marine). Will have to post how it works.
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:14 PM   #17
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I've explained this technique so many times over the years I'll keep this version super short.

In the "old days" this was a standard way of putting a smooth layer of gel coat on wood boats. It was called "cello finishing" because a layer of plastic was used to cover the gel coat. This gave a very smooth finish when the cellophane was peeled off.

I took my ocean going boat across Europe from the Med. to the English Channel through hundreds, yes hundreds of locks never meant for ocean going type boats. When I got the boat back to Canada I had dozens and dozens of nicks, cracks and other nasties to repair.

Short form: Vee the crack if it's really fine. Obtain a small amount of the correct color gel coat. Wash the area with acetone. Very carefully abrade the edges, only about 1/4" to the side of the crack. Get some acetate sheet. Old overhead projector sheets are ideal, if not use stiff poly. Cut a piece about 1/2" larger all round. Put masking tape on 3 edges. Put a drop of gel coat on the crack. Put the poly over it with the top open. Smooth the poly upwards moving any air up and out the open top. With practice you can do a repair that requires almost no further steps. If the repair is "proud" of the original surface then wet and dry sandpaper and buffing will make the repair invisible. The only variation is if the crack is deeper than the gel coat. In that case use bondo to fill to the gel coat level.

And that's the short version But seriously, no kits etc. are required.

Ron
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:53 AM   #18
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Wow Ron ... this is great information. Too bad we don't have a "how to" forum that just highlights step by step instructions like this. Thank you!!!
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:25 PM   #19
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Thanks, hopefully my new trailer won't require me to be doing scratch or scrape repairs any time soon. If I do then I'll take a few step by step photos because it could be useful.

I know there's a reluctance by owners to do something that might seem like it would devalue your trailer. But once you've done one and seen how easy it is then you wouldn't even think twice about doing it again.

To get an idea of how it works a person could do a practice repair using a piece of wood and some enamel paint. Scratch the wood, put a drop of paint on and smooth the poly. See the result. The only difference is that the paint won't harden under the poly but the technique is the same.

The only beginner mistake is usually to over estimate the quantity of gel coat to use. Too much is more of a problem than too little. As that old Brylcreme? ad said " a little drop'll do you".

Still scratch free

Ron
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Old 04-20-2021, 02:32 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
I've explained this technique so many times over the years I'll keep this version super short.

In the "old days" this was a standard way of putting a smooth layer of gel coat on wood boats. It was called "cello finishing" because a layer of plastic was used to cover the gel coat. This gave a very smooth finish when the cellophane was peeled off.

I took my ocean going boat across Europe from the Med. to the English Channel through hundreds, yes hundreds of locks never meant for ocean going type boats. When I got the boat back to Canada I had dozens and dozens of nicks, cracks and other nasties to repair.



Short form: Vee the crack if it's really fine. Obtain a small amount of the correct color gel coat. Wash the area with acetone. Very carefully abrade the edges, only about 1/4" to the side of the crack. Get some acetate sheet. Old overhead projector sheets are ideal, if not use stiff poly. Cut a piece about 1/2" larger all round. Put masking tape on 3 edges. Put a drop of gel coat on the crack. Put the poly over it with the top open. Smooth the poly upwards moving any air up and out the open top. With practice you can do a repair that requires almost no further steps. If the repair is "proud" of the original surface then wet and dry sandpaper and buffing will make the repair invisible. The only variation is if the crack is deeper than the gel coat. In that case use bondo to fill to the gel coat level.

And that's the short version But seriously, no kits etc. are required.

Ron
Ron, I hope you're still active on this site. What are you referring to when you say "poly"? Also, do you recommend going to ETI for the correct gel coat or is there another source?If there are any links to where Ron goes into a more detailed description, I'd appreciate getting pointed to them (or other detailed repair instructions).
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