Maxx Fan

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by escape artist

Hi: gbaglo... I could be in trouble here but I thought I read somewhere that both fan co's where owned by the same... Dometic? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

Oh ! No!

[padlin]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

You need to explain why you like the Fantastic. Everything I've ever read, both here and on FGRV, indicate that Maxxfan is way better than Fantastic Fan.

Having had both, it's just my opinion Glen. I thought it simpler to use, open the lid, turn it to the desired direction (in/out), set the speed (H,M,L), turn the dial to the temp you want to maintain. It was just quick and easy. I have no way to gauge what I'm setting the temp to on the Maxx, the dial pointer gave me one on the FF. With the Maxx I keep hitting the + or - till it turns on or off, then bump it a few extra times.
The FF seemed quieter to me on high, which could be a function of the roof top cover. On the FF you have to buy and install one of these over it.

Easier to clean.


Aircel produces Suburban, Coleman, and MaxxAir.
FF was aquired by Atwood, which has since been eaten by Dometic.

After seeing that I may change my mind on the FF.

[jkordzi]

Today I called the Maxx Fan people at 316-832-4357 to report that our 7500K was not responding to either manual or remote commands, that it was trying unsuccessfully to come on randomly, and was beeping randomly. They are sending out a new PCB for me to install. Really odd that we've only had the 5.0TA since April, but the fan died in October. After I get the new PCB, I'll post pics of the old one and hopefully be able to ID the problem. If you need docs for this fan, go here: Airxcel | Maxxair | Literature & Documents


BTW, anyone know which fuse disconnects the Maxx Fan? My fusebox doesn't list it. Thanks.

[Yukon Escape]

The max fan electronics, are not well protected from moisture.
Our PCB quit working, I tried every thing could not get it working.
I purchased a new one board, and control pad, from the manufacturer in the states, if I remember right it was about $75.00.
After I installed it all was well.
Last winter for some reason, moisture perhaps, the control pad quit working.
Escape trailer sold me a new one for $20.00.
All is now well and the fan is working well.
Next spring we will see what happens, as I truly like this fan, and use it quite a bit for ventilation.
The task of replacing parts on this fan is not hard, basically plug and play.
Just awkward these days working over my head, one hand holding parts in place another to hold the screws and another for the screw driver.
Once you have mastered that all goes well.
Doug

[jkordzi]

Based on the other posts, I've concluded that moisture is indeed the culprit. I was actually thinking of doing a DIY conformal coating (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conformal_coating) to try to protect it. If nothing else, just spraying it with some clear polyurethane.

[jkordzi]

Well, today I installed the PCB board. Needed tools include a philips screw driver, two butt connectors, and a crimper. To begin, first disconnect the appropriate fuse, which for me is the third 15 amp fuse down (labeled 12V). Remove the screen by rotating the plastic connectors that hold it in place, then the knob (screw in the center) and then the four screws that hold the trim around the fan. The first attachment is what you will then see.

Next finish removing the trim that holds the PCB. For some reason the board has three proper connectors but the two power leads are attached with butt connectors. Remove the wire tie that keeps the wires bundled together and save it. You will have to cut the power leads (which were attached with butt connectors) and disconnect the three other connectors. Note that black from the board is connected to red on the fan and white from the board is connected to black on the fan.

The new board is slightly different so I assume it's a redesign and hopefully will last longer. The second attachment is a side-by-side comparison of the two boards. It seemed to me that the old board has some oxidation that indicates to me its not sealed properly against moisture. I asked the Maxx Air people about coating the board (conformal coatings) but they never got back to me so I didn't apply any.

After you get the trim piece that houses the board disconnected, Remove the board. Take note of how the wires are routed around the inside of the trim. The board is held in place with three screws and plastic washers. The board has two LEDs. One is below the board and the other is off to the side. On my board, the LED off to the side was hot melt glued to the trim, so I left it alone and disconnected it at the old board and reused it with the new board.

The new board went in fairly easily. When you install the board, make sure you ensure the LED below the board lines up inside its plastic bubble, which may requires that its head be bent a bit (mine did). The third attachment shows this. Route the wires around the inside of the trim piece. Install the butt connectors on the ends of the power leads.

Lastly, hold the trim piece with the new board up to the fan and crimp the butt connectors to the power leads to the fan. The hardest part for me was ensuring that the wiring was tucked up above the board so that its completely out of sight and doesn't hit the fan blade. Use the wire tie you saved to help with this. The fourth attachment shows how the wires should be tied and routed.

My new board works fine, but unfortunately I discovered that the motor that actuates the hatch isn't working properly. Instead of automatically opening and closing with power, it spins its shaft without engaging its gears. So I had to order a new one from Maxx Fan. I was informed that to install it requires getting on the roof and folding back the cover. Stayed tuned for part 2 in a week or so.

[Honair]

Advice requested....Maxxfan not working. Use to work. Picked this 5.0 from Escape in Aug this year. The fan worked until this week. Batteries seems good in and per the remote. Remote even shows the send signal.
We can manually open and close the fan.... and that is all. The fan is on a very slow speed. We can not change the speed. No light on the fan. No beeps when less than one sec as to set up auto. Any ideas before I call Escape?

[jkordzi]

I think you should call the Maxxfan folks up and go over your issue with them. Their number is 316-832-4357.

[Honair]

Thank you.

[sclifrickson]

And Henry, please post back with your findings. We had a similar experience, one day only, that lasted a few hours. It seemingly self corrected and hasn’t repeated (fingers crossed). That was over a year ago. I’ve been a tad nervous that it might suddenly crap out on us unexpectedly ever since then, but it’s actually been a solid performer.

[Honair]

Will do.

[dragoon]

I have gone through 3 circuit cards for my Maxxfan smoke since I purchased the 17 foot trailer in 2015. Went to check the trailer this morning, malfunctioning again. I have decided to wire in a manual switch, keeping it simple. I don't think these cards are made for the wet systems of the Pacific Northwest.

[padlin]

An option would be the Fan-Tastic fan, down side of them is you may need a separate vent cover. Not as sleek looking as the Maxx.

edit: Another down side, they are owned by Dometic.

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by dragoon

I have gone through 3 circuit cards for my Maxxfan smoke since I purchased the 17 foot trailer in 2015. Went to check the trailer this morning, malfunctioning again. I have decided to wire in a manual switch, keeping it simple. I don't think these cards are made for the wet systems of the Pacific Northwest.

Nor New England weather....I need another card. Interesting thing the grumpy guy on the tech support line told me that today's campers do not do a good job of voltage regulation and he thought that is what is doing in the cards...not sure this is valid or not. I had a fantastic fan in my Scamp 3 speeds blew in and out, never a problem. I do like to leave my vent open when traveling and when camper is not being used so I too wonder if moisture is the real enemy of the maxx fan, maybe the fantastic is simpler and no circuit card? maybe it is better protected? With what I will be in for another card I could buy a fantastic fan....could the fan guts be installed in the maxx frame

[padlin]

You could leave the FF open if you put on a vent cover. I had issues on my last trailer leaving anything open when traveling if it rained, seems to suck in water anywhere it can.

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by padlin

You could leave the FF open if you put on a vent cover. I had issues on my last trailer leaving anything open when traveling if it rained, seems to suck in water anywhere it can.

I put one of those removable scoop covers (Maxx?) on our fantastic and it worked great. I was just thinking could you mount the much simpler(and maybe more reliable?) fantastic fan guts right in the maxx fan cowl and thus not have to buy the scoop? Ours generally stayed dry and our maxx generally stays dry...at least the floor does below the unit...not sure about the controls!

[cpaharley2008]

I wonder if keeping it on exhaust would prolong the circuit board life expectancy since you are not pulling in moist air from outside over the unit but pulling air from inside out which maybe less humid?

[gbaglo]

Depends how often you make tea.

[stephen99]

Originally Posted by Ian and Sue

Nor New England weather....I need another card. Interesting thing the grumpy guy on the tech support line told me that today's campers do not do a good job of voltage regulation and he thought that is what is doing in the cards...not sure this is valid or not. I had a fantastic fan in my Scamp 3 speeds blew in and out, never a problem. I do like to leave my vent open when traveling and when camper is not being used so I too wonder if moisture is the real enemy of the maxx fan, maybe the fantastic is simpler and no circuit card? maybe it is better protected? With what I will be in for another card I could buy a fantastic fan....could the fan guts be installed in the maxx frame

I am waiting for my second control board replacement to arrive. When I talked to their tech guy he said they don't like to see anything over 13.5 volts on the card. Trouble is the DC bus routinely goes over that when charging the batteries. They need to beef up their card to handle more than 13.5 volts.

[John in Santa Cruz]

anything designed for automotive/rv DC power really should tolerate anything from 9 to 16V input.