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02-18-2019, 11:02 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: palo alto, California
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic #7
Posts: 314
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More Atwood furnace woes.. ('07 escape 21 removal)
__________________
7-7-7 Our Marriage
2013 Escape 21 Classic
2014 Sequoia
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02-19-2019, 06:17 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Escape has a you tube channel with video
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Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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02-19-2019, 08:23 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Janesville, WI, Wisconsin
Trailer: Escape 19 (sold) Escape 21 2014
Posts: 1,879
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I experienced the same problem. In my case it was that support board wedged and screwed down under the furnace. You upper right photo shows the board. It needed to be removed.
Photos and a more complete description can be found here.
__________________
Paul and Janet Braun
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 now 2012 Toyota Sequoia V8
Escape 19' 2010 now 2014 Escape 21'
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02-20-2019, 01:18 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: palo alto, California
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic #7
Posts: 314
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Success!!!
Good lord that little bit of wood was not easy to get out but as soon as it was furnace pulled out easy
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fudge_brownie
I experienced the same problem. In my case it was that support board wedged and screwed down under the furnace. You upper right photo shows the board. It needed to be removed.
Photos and a more complete description can be found here.
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__________________
7-7-7 Our Marriage
2013 Escape 21 Classic
2014 Sequoia
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03-05-2019, 10:33 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North of Danbury, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21C
Posts: 3,033
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Has anyone replaced the factory Atwood 12,000 btu furnace in an Escape 21 with an Atwood 16,000 or 20,000 BTU furnace ?
I am not concerned with the increased power consumption only the heat output .
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03-23-2019, 11:43 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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I have the Atwood 8012-11 12,000 BTU furnace in my 19. Never a problem the last 5+ years. It heats just fine. Have no need to replace it. But, gawd knows, down the road, a random roll of the dice determines if you stay golden, or become a victim.
That in mind, needed to know where that sail switch others have had trouble with sits. Big shout out to Padlin for sending me this schematic, and, I post it here, for the public good...
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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03-23-2019, 12:20 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL
I have the Atwood 8012-11 12,000 BTU furnace in my 19. Never a problem the last 5+ years. It heats just fine. Have no need to replace it. But, gawd knows, down the road, a random roll of the dice determines if you stay golden, or become a victim.
That in mind, needed to know where that sail switch others have had trouble with sits. Big shout out to Padlin for sending me this schematic, and, I post it here, for the public good...
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Myron does this mean completely removing heater ? Pat
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03-23-2019, 05:18 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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I removed it once, but was not looking for the sail switch, which at the time I did not even know existed.
Removal is not a job to take lightly. If you don't clearly document - label the several wires' connections you could cause yourself big trouble. Then there's the issue of re-seating the unit back in place, without binding. I never got it perfect.
Considering the sail switch location is right side rear, guessing unless your hands are super teeny-tiny, then yes.
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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03-23-2019, 06:32 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL
I removed it once, but was not looking for the sail switch, which at the time I did not even know existed.
Removal is not a job to take lightly. If you don't clearly document - label the several wires' connections you could cause yourself big trouble. Then there's the issue of re-seating the unit back in place, without binding. I never got it perfect.
Considering the sail switch location is right side rear, guessing unless your hands are super teeny-tiny, then yes.
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Oh dear ! Hope not ever ! Pat
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03-23-2019, 10:54 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North of Danbury, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21C
Posts: 3,033
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The more research I do about the Atwood furnace the more I am convinced that cpaharley 2008 has the right solution . We are looking at replacing our furnace with a recessed electric wall heater with fan .
I realize that electric heat has its limitations but it is simpler and more reliable than the Atwood furnace
I have all the necessary parts on hand so my only cost is my labor
.
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03-23-2019, 11:02 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Surrey, British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19'
Posts: 264
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For owners with the 8012 but other Escape models (not the 21), there is no block of wood, but removal still takes a fair bit of pulling force to loosen the unit. It fits quite tightly in the exhaust vent attached to the outside shell of the Escape.
If you search the forum for sail switch, you will find a number of threads (some with photos) that describe the process.
I found that there is enough slack in the wiring to pull the unit out and set it on some blocks without cutting (and maybe even labelling) the wires.
I have seen posts that state you can blow dust from the sail switch, but I did not figure this one out. Maybe if you have a length of rubber tube this will work.
The hardest part is the reinstall aligning the furnace and exhaust, and pushing it all the way in. Get a helper to push on the outside exhaust vent to keep it from getting pushed out. Put some dish soap on the exhaust tube to help it slide into the outside tube.
__________________
Kirk & Shelley
2014 19'
Surrey, Beautiful BC, Canada
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03-23-2019, 11:06 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham
I realize that electric heat has its limitations but it is simpler and more reliable than the Atwood furnace
I have all the necessary parts on hand so my only cost is my labor
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All you have to do is erect the power poles and run the wire. And, connect it to the grid. Pretty simple really.
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What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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03-24-2019, 01:31 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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A few people have pointed out that while an Escape from British Columbia has a stock furnace and an optional air conditioner, a Casita from Texas has an optional furnace and a standard (in "Deluxe" models) air conditioner. Different equipment for different conditions... and some people can certainly live without a furnace.
Electric-only is certainly an option for some people, who only use serviced campgrounds. There have even been travel trailers which are electric-only, not even having a propane system (although one of those just went bankrupt): they heat and cook only with electricity. While I prefer to cook electrically when power is available, I would not find an RV which has no heat except in a serviced site to be acceptable.
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03-24-2019, 07:14 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North of Danbury, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21C
Posts: 3,033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo
All you have to do is erect the power poles and run the wire. And, connect it to the grid. Pretty simple really.
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I am not sure if you are attempting to be humorous or helpful but in either case THANK YOU !!
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03-24-2019, 07:43 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North of Danbury, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21C
Posts: 3,033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
A few people have pointed out that while an Escape from British Columbia has a stock furnace and an optional air conditioner, a Casita from Texas has an optional furnace and a standard (in "Deluxe" models) air conditioner. Different equipment for different conditions... and some people can certainly live without a furnace.
Electric-only is certainly an option for some people, who only use serviced campgrounds. There have even been travel trailers which are electric-only, not even having a propane system (although one of those just went bankrupt): they heat and cook only with electricity. While I prefer to cook electrically when power is available, I would not find an RV which has no heat except in a serviced site to be acceptable.
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Brian , I got an approximate price from 2 local RV dealers to repair my furnace
For the cost of a new circuit board and a sail switch plus all the labor to remove , install parts
repair , bench test and reinstall the furnace , I could purchase a brand new 16,000 btu Atwood furnace with the same problems
If I do get it repaired they will only give me a 90 day warranty based on their past experiences.
I can buy a top of the line Electric heater from a wholesaler I’ve done business with for under $100
I agree with everything you posted but right now I have a furnace that doesn’t work so I have no gas heat and I am heating my trailer with a portable electric heater
If I repair the furnace I am out $400 and from what I’ve read and been told it will be at best unreliable , again with a high probability of no gas heat .
If I put the electric heater in there will be times I will have to camp with hookups but I can plan for that , with the Atwood furnace it’s a crap shoot !
Our Casita has a Suburban propane furnace ( NO problems in 6 years) and the electric strip heater in the A/C . I really wish our Escape A/C had the strip heater but from my reasearch the Escape is not designed for one . Knowing the failure rate of the Atwood furnace , I would think that having a built in backup heat source would be advantageous but that’s a discussion for another day.
My goal is reliability and predictability and the Atwood furnace provides neither . IMHO
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03-24-2019, 07:49 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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The propane furnace is certainly handy for over night stops and cg without hookups. That is one of the reasons I went with solar, the state cg system in Pennsylvania seems to have really nice full hookups, but no pets but plenty of pet friendly no hook up sites. In the winter we will always try to get an electric site only, since the water system is winterized. We can use the electric heater during the day and the furnace at night and both if it drops to the single digits. It is nice to have choices and nice to have a backup in case one or the other fails.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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03-24-2019, 07:50 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Steve, why not replace the Atwood with a Suburban heater?
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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03-24-2019, 02:38 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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I understand the frustration with the cost of repairing or replacing a furnace, and agree that a backup heat source is prudent; I just wouldn't find an RV which is dependent on a power-serviced site to be acceptable to me. Similarly, a motor vehicle's engine is expensive, but you kind of need it...
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
Steve, why not replace the Atwood with a Suburban heater?
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This makes sense to me, but I doubt that it is worthwhile.
It makes sense because there is nothing about the trailer design which ties it to a particular brand or model of furnace. As long as there's space in the cabinet, and you can find an exterior grill to fit, you can put in what you want. After all, when the old 8012 was discontinued and Escape went to the AFSAD replacement, the only change in the trailer was to relocate the furnace in the one case where the new furnace didn't fit in the old spot. The Suburban NT-16SEQ is smaller in volume than the AFS, but taller (and narrower) and a bit deeper, so they may or may not be an easy fit. This Suburban might be an easier swap for the 8012, because the proportions are more similar. Like the 8012, the NTQ series does not have an exterior door option, so it's "pull to repair".
I doubt that the conversion is worthwhile because, despite the obvious trend to some specific problems in the Atwood / Dometic AFS, I don't see any reason to expect better from a Suburban... because anecdotal experience with one furnace doesn't mean much. For instance, I have had three similar but earlier Atwood furnaces which have had no problems with the sail switch; one blew a control board (easy to replace from the outside), and the same one wore out a motor (after many many hours of use, reasonable to replace from the outside).
If I went to the expense and effort of a custom installation of a different furnace in any RV, I would want a quieter and more efficient design, not just another brand of the same thing.
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03-24-2019, 06:21 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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So it's loud. Now I am feeling really (sic) warm and fuzzy about my old Atwood 8012.
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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03-24-2019, 07:47 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL
So it's loud. Now I am feeling really (sic) warm and fuzzy about my old Atwood 8012.
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Me too Myron ! Pat
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