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Old 10-04-2015, 08:45 PM   #31
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Rockwell, North Carolina
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5TA
Posts: 97
Originally Posted by sturski View Post
... the cost of taking my wife camping and keeping her active is more than I'd care to admit.
The only thing you really own are the memories everything else stays here when you leave!

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Old 10-04-2015, 09:08 PM   #32
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern Iowa, Iowa
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 1,162
True that. There are no pockets in caskets and I've never seen a hearse
stop at a bank and make a withdrawal. Lots of things cost a lot of money for various reasons. Sounds like you have done a exhaustive research and it's now a matter of making the go ahead purchase. I wish you and your wife the best of luck in future camping endeavors.

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Old 10-04-2015, 09:43 PM   #33
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jamestown, Colorado
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19
Posts: 211
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
"...There is a used market for oxygen concentrators that runs around 50%, the Sequal was new to market when I bought ours."

Stursk... how do I find that market?
Most companies that sell them will buy them back and resell them. I bought mine from these folks, I can't recommend them. They were like dealing with a used car dealer; but they had a local office.
It would surprise me if you find that model available, used. It hasn't been around very long; but it's predecessor is the eclipse 5, which is fairly common.
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Old 10-04-2015, 09:55 PM   #34
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
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Originally Posted by sturski View Post
... I brought a borrowed Honda EU2000i generator and used it nightly to top things off.

The EU2000i seems overkill, it never really ran faster than idle. Has anyone used a EU1000i? Smaller and quieter seem desirable to me, I will never use it for anything other than a glorified battery charger.
Right - even if the Escape's converter is putting out the full rated 40 amps, and doing it at 14 volts, that's still only 560 watts (plus whatever extra for inefficiency). The EU2000i doesn't need to work very hard to do that, and the EU1000i can certainly handle it. On the other hand, slower is better for both noise and efficiency.
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Old 10-04-2015, 10:00 PM   #35
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I believe you can purchase a battery charger and plug it into the generator and then directly to the batteries, this will be quicker.
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I have Honda EU1000i and I just connect to the battery terminals with alligator clips ( came with genset ). I don't use a battery charger
Originally Posted by jxoco View Post
It looks like both the honda 1000 and the 2000 can put 8 amps out of the DC charging plug.
That would be the fastest way to charge/top up your batteries.
Yes, there's a 12V DC output from these generators, using a separate set of output windings in the generator; unfortunately it only puts out that 8 amps and is controlled like a good battery charger.

If this 8 amps is more than you get using the 120V AC output to drive a battery charger, it doesn't seem like a very large or very good battery charger. The Escape's converter has a maximum 40 amps output, but if it doesn't go to high enough voltage it won't push much current into a nearly charged battery.

One of my RVs came with a converter that just ran at a constant 13.6 V DC ouput. That's perfectly good as an alternative to running from a battery, but is a lousy battery charger.

Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
In general, you will get more charging current with most 120V battery chargers connected to even a 1000 watt generator than the 8 amps, 12V connection on the Honda inverter generator. Even many converters will do better, although the WFCO used by Escape is an exception.
I agree. Either a converter which charges more effectively, or a separate battery charger with much more than 8 amps output, is the way to get the battery back up to full charge with minimum generator run time.

Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
As to alternators, my RAV4 with tow package has a 150 amp one...
Good point - even with a tow package and running at idle (max alternator output requires a higher engine speed), and tug can provide lots of charging current. Too much wiring resistance between the tug's voltage regulator input and the trailer's battery will keep the system from producing a full charge, but heavy cables fix that.
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Old 10-04-2015, 10:02 PM   #36
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arvada, Colorado
Trailer: '21 - 'Velocity'. Tow: Toyota Tacoma V6, 4X4, manual.
Posts: 375
Originally Posted by sturski View Post
Ya, I knew solar wouldn't cut it for this trip and brought along a generator. My Tacoma has the towing package and a 170something watt alternator, though it only puts out 12.6v through the 7 pin plug.
I believe we have the same truck.

While the alternator is quite capable, its output goes to the truck battery, while the 7 pin plug gets its power from the same circuit that is controlled by the ignition switch.

I was curious to see if I could run the 6 cu ft refrigerator on 12 v directly from the 7 pin connection, with the truck running. Answer was no - the voltage drop was about 1.75 volts, bringing down the voltage below the trailer batteries, when measured at the distribution panel. So even connected and running, the truck would not contribute much, and the trailer batteries would be supplying most of the power. Not suitable for a day's drive.

It would take a major re-wire and perhaps an additional relay to get alternator power into the trailer. I'm not even going to think about it.


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