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Old 07-30-2016, 09:17 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
A Casita has a 13,500 BTU Coleman and can require more than 20 amps.
Sorry, a Casita has a 9,000 BTU Coleman and can draw approx. 11 amps.
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Old 07-30-2016, 10:47 PM   #22
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When the refrigerator was turned off, did you have the freezer defrosting? Normally, I would say the A/C but since you have not been using it, next source could be the freezer.
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Old 07-30-2016, 10:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
Sorry, a Casita has a 9,000 BTU Coleman and can draw approx. 11 amps.
I stand corrected, then. The 13,500 Coleman on one of my friend's Casita must therefore be a retrofit/replacement (roof model). However, the point I made about house power damaging an A/C because it was run too much is valid. If Nathan's A/C was damaged by running it from a home outlet it was likely run on an inadequate power cord (small gauge or excessive length) or an outlet providing inadequate amperage.
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Old 07-30-2016, 11:02 PM   #24
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The AC in our 2010 is running right now. The readout is showing 6 amp draw on medium fan and when the compressor kicks in it goes to
11 amps. Line voltage is 123 volts and nothing else is on. Just for your reference.
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Old 07-30-2016, 11:05 PM   #25
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[QUOTE=nathanj04011;153844]
Our water tank is severely bowed down in the middle but it does not appear to be leaking at all.
IQUOTE]

Is the "severely bowed down" normal for this tank? Also check the white tank drain fitting and the elbow to see if they may have been hit by something during a trip. There could be a hairline crack somewhere.
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Old 07-30-2016, 11:45 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
The AC in our 2010 is running right now. The readout is showing 6 amp draw on medium fan and when the compressor kicks in it goes to
11 amps. Line voltage is 123 volts and nothing else is on. Just for your reference.
Dave
That is about right, if running. Typically, A/C units, if they do not have hard start capacitors, require a few more amps to start. Once started, the amps used will be reduced from what is required to get the unit going. The numbers I quoted in a previous post are approximations, and I do mean approximations of starting requirements. I always consider starting requirements when determining what amperage is used. I would guess if you are getting 123 volts then you are using a heavy duty shore power cord and at least a 20 amp circuit. I personally wouldn't run my trailer's A/C on a 15 amp circuit because it is questionable (marginal) if it would provide adequate starting power. I have stayed in campgrounds inadequately wired. When people started using their A/Cs, voltage dropped from 120 to less than 110, and at one private campground in Ontario we stayed at in 2015, I saw it go down to 104 volts.
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Old 07-30-2016, 11:52 PM   #27
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I would only use 30 amps to run the A/C as I understand that people have ruined their A/C on 15 or 20. Since we have the EMS, I expect it would shut us down anyway. It will shut us down at below 104 or above 132. We were shut down several times on this last trip due to weather and various problems at pedestals.
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Old 07-31-2016, 06:41 AM   #28
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Quote:
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I would only use 30 amps to run the A/C as I understand that people have ruined their A/C on 15 or 20. Since we have the EMS, I expect it would shut us down anyway. It will shut us down at below 104 or above 132. We were shut down several times on this last trip due to weather and various problems at pedestals.
If 30 amps were required to run the A/C, the trailer would have a 50 amp main breaker and a 50 amp cord (40 amp breakers are available, but not 40 amp outlets). The reason for this is because trailer owners are "expected" by the manufacturer to concurrently utilize multiple appliances, thereby adding to the power demand. The electrical system is designed with this in mind. Huge RVs with multiple A/Cs have 50 amp services. Getting back to our 30 amp trailers, should the usage exceed 30 amps (unlikely, but it could happen.....e.g., A/C, microwave, coffee maker, hair dryer, etc. all running at the same time), the main breaker will trip. That being said, given a properly sized cord that is not excessively long (the longer the cord, the larger the wires must be to prevent voltage drop), if all one is running is the A/C, a 20 amp circuit is adequate to run the A/Cs in our Escape trailers. It might be prudent to not run any other "energy hogs" at the same time. Some Escape owners operate their A/Cs with Honda 2,000 watt generators. I am not 100% sure of the specifications, but I believe the Honda's output is similar to that of a 20 amp circuit. Hopefully, one of the forum's licensed electricians csn chime in.
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Old 07-31-2016, 07:39 AM   #29
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Just to clarify...when we blew our original Casita AC, we were at my in-laws, plugged in to a regular outlet on the house end, then we had an extension cord running out to the Casita where we had a 30 amp to 15 amp converter on the extension cord to connect it to the Casita. Didn't work so well. We have pretty the same setup our our home, the my refusal to tempt fate again.

I do have a question though...we have a 3 year old, brand new but never used yet Yamaha 2000 watt generator. I would like to take that along on some campouts, and would like to see if it can run the AC. We have the EMS thing on the Escape. Would I risk damage to the AC by testing it with the generator? Of course, that would be the only thing using power that would be on...again, I have been hesitant to try it. Paralyzed with AC blowout fear.


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Old 07-31-2016, 07:44 AM   #30
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You would have to turn the EMS off while using the generator because it is not grounded.
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