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Old 09-02-2019, 03:17 PM   #1
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No bars on remote switch

I put in a new inverter after my old one went kaput and am getting juice to outlets, can run a desktop fan, coffee pot, shark vac, etc.
However, I can't run the microwave without it shutting down and toaster oven makes inverter emit an uneasy whine, so I turned it off.
And no bars on the remote switch screen.
Any ideas?
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Old 09-02-2019, 03:38 PM   #2
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What is the make model of the new inverter?
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Old 09-02-2019, 03:40 PM   #3
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Whatís the peak/sustained output of the new inverter? What are the Watts required by the devices youíre having problems with? What gauge is the cabling between batteries and inverter?
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Old 09-02-2019, 03:46 PM   #4
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More questions, to help describe the situation:
  1. What is the battery voltage before using the microwave, during, and after?
  2. Have you measured the voltage at the inverter's input terminals, not just the battery?

This information would help determine if the inverter is complaining about low voltage, and if so whether the voltage is low at the battery or lost in the wires.
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Old 09-02-2019, 04:08 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
More questions, to help describe the situation:
  1. What is the battery voltage before using the microwave, during, and after?
  2. Have you measured the voltage at the inverter's input terminals, not just the battery?

This information would help determine if the inverter is complaining about low voltage, and if so whether the voltage is low at the battery or lost in the wires.
Brand name is same, Samlex, only 2000 watt instead of stock 1500. That's what was available on Amazon.
Cables, wiring, etc, are exactly the same and what was there to begin with.
Voltage was around 12.5 when I tested the MW yesterday. It lasted 3 or 4 seconds and something shut down, and I don't want to push it again. It was 13 volts this a.m. for the toaster oven.
I can do without these appliances when camping and testing voltages, etc, is beyond me and my confidence level, so if these items become more crucial for use, I'll call an electrician.
For the present time, I'll just make a cup of coffee
and charge my electronics.
Thanks for the replies!
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Old 09-02-2019, 05:14 PM   #6
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You may be able to improve things by going to a larger wire size. The 12.5V from a fully charged battery is good, particularly if measuring while the inverter is running under load, but what is it at the inverter inputs? According to the specifications, the alarm sounds at 10.7V and shut down is at 10V. If you are dropping that low at the inverter with the battery voltage at 12.5 while running the stock Escape microwave, you either have a loose connection or too small wiring.

I had the same problem with the stock microwave & the 6V batteries in the morning after running the furnace overnight. My first solution was to switch to a Panasonic Genius Prestige NN-SD372S Microwave Oven. This is an inverter oven, which can be "turned down" to a lower input wattage. A standard microwave draws full power, then shuts off, then full power in cycles to do any setting below full power. The inverter microwave actually reduces the power to the Magnetron. It can be turned down to as low as 600 watts input. It also does a much better job defrosting.

My final solution was to switch to a pair of 100 amp hour lithium batteries, but that is an extreme solution!
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Old 09-02-2019, 07:00 PM   #7
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Thanks for the info.... interesting some people can utilize the stock microwave with the Escape equipped solar package, and others can't.
Oh well.
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Old 09-02-2019, 07:08 PM   #8
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Thanks for the info.... interesting some people can utilize the stock microwave with the Escape equipped solar package, and others can't.
Oh well.
I use the microwave daily on my trailer when boondocking and the solar panels charge the batteries right back up. I do have the NN-SD372S as it is a better choice if you want to limit current draw but having the wiring to the inverter with good connections is more critical.

Try tightening the connections on the 12v terminals on the inverter - it doesn't take much to induce resistance there with a semi loose connection.
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Old 09-02-2019, 07:37 PM   #9
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Yes, connections were checked and all is good.
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Old 09-03-2019, 12:14 AM   #10
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As Jon suggested, it's what happens to the voltages which matters, so one reading isn't enough to understand what's going on.

You need someone who is comfortable probing the appropriate points with a voltmeter, but more importantly can understand the situation and systematically troubleshoot. That doesn't need to be an electrician.
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Old 09-03-2019, 05:54 AM   #11
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uneasy whine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimli View Post
I put in a new inverter after my old one went kaput and am getting juice to outlets, can run a desktop fan, coffee pot, shark vac, etc.
However, I can't run the microwave without it shutting down and toaster oven makes inverter emit an uneasy whine, so I turned it off.
And no bars on the remote switch screen.
Any ideas?
The first time I activated my inverter and used the microwave I got the same whine.

Sounded like a turbo prop was spooling up under my dinette. I exaggerate, of course but it was loud.

It smoothed out after a few seconds but was still annoying
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Old 09-03-2019, 01:23 PM   #12
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My voltage drops from 12.7 to 10.7 in 2 seconds, too much strain. I'm leaving the testing of volts to someone else down the road.
However, I did find this. Is this a problem? Looks like a problem.
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File Type: jpg 0903191054_HDRa.jpg (252.3 KB, 23 views)
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Old 09-03-2019, 01:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimli View Post
My voltage drops from 12.7 to 10.7 in 2 seconds, too much strain. I'm leaving the testing of volts to someone else down the road.
However, I did find this. Is this a problem? Looks like a problem.
0903191054_HDR.jpg
While that fuse is not part of the inverter circuit, it (and the fuse holder) definitely is in need of replacing.
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Old 09-03-2019, 01:44 PM   #14
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Thanks
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Old 09-03-2019, 02:01 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimli View Post
My voltage drops from 12.7 to 10.7 in 2 seconds, too much strain. I'm leaving the testing of volts to someone else down the road.
However, I did find this. Is this a problem? Looks like a problem.
Here you go - will fix that right up.

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-HHX-...gateway&sr=8-4
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Old 09-03-2019, 02:06 PM   #16
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Thank you!
And if I order in the next 12 minutes, I'll get it tomorrow...so I did
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Old 09-05-2019, 08:45 PM   #17
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The new fuse holder looks bigger than original...will it work?
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Old 09-05-2019, 08:54 PM   #18
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This is supposed to take a 50 amp fuse.
I can't pull out the fuse on the original because it appears to be at least partially melted into the holder.
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Old 09-05-2019, 09:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimli View Post
My voltage drops from 12.7 to 10.7 in 2 seconds, too much strain.

...
I note that your trailer has a manufacture date of 2015. If your batteries are original it is possible that they have lost enough capacity to not be able to supply the high amperage to the inverter that a microwave demands. Battery years are somewhat like dog years.


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Old 09-05-2019, 09:35 PM   #20
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The new fuse holder looks bigger than original...will it work?
It fits on mine. 6 gauge wire pigtails and comes with a 60 amp fuse. The 60 amp fuse is also what I have on my trailer.
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