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Old 11-22-2014, 08:17 PM   #11
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
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I would probe around with a test light or voltmeter to see which DC circuits - if any - are live. Your willingness to do this may vary...

Quote:
Originally Posted by NorTexCamper View Post
I can set the refrigerator to battery power (toggle through the choices of AC / Batt / Propane), which I would think that if there was no battery power available, it would not let me select it?
That makes sense to me, but may not be true... what model of refrigerator is it?

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Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
I think it would work if plugged in to 120V, no?
I believe - but may be wrong - that some Dometic models power the controls only from the 12VDC source, so it is needed regardless of the power source available for heat to drive the cooling unit. In that case, of course, being able to do anything with the 'fridge controls would imply that at least that circuit has 12VDC power.
Again, what model of refrigerator is this?
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:04 PM   #12
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There is an in-line breaker between the battery switch and the converter. Check to make sure there is voltage showing on both posts of the breaker.

Reace
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Old 11-24-2014, 02:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reace View Post
There is an in-line breaker between the battery switch and the converter. Check to make sure there is voltage showing on both posts of the breaker.

Reace
What is the amperage the breaker is rated for ?
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Old 12-08-2014, 12:59 PM   #14
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Aledo, Texas
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
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Thanks all for the feedback and thought provoking questions ... days got busy and didn’t have a chance to post until now. I wasn’t able to troubleshoot the problem before our Thanksgiving camping trip (Tyler State Park), but because everything is fine on utility power, we had a great trip.

I’ll cut to the chase... the one thing I changed this trip was that didn’t select battery power for the refrigerator while traveling. The fridge was turned off. The evening we came back from the trip, in our driveway with the trailer disconnected from everything, I tried the lights and they worked... everything worked on DC power (water pump, status panel, etc.).

So, my theory is that in the several trips prior to this one, where I was attempting to “cool” the fridge while traveling, the battery would discharged to zero. I assumed the heavy-duty alternator, part of the Ford F-150 tow package, was able to recharge the battery sufficient enough to keep up with the electrical demands of the fridge.

The one caveat in this theory is that the day before leaving on the Thanksgiving trip, in our driveway with the trailer disconnected from everything, I connected a freshly charged battery (battery kept on trickle charger) to the camper and tried the lights... no joy. So, I don’t know if maybe there’s a period of time that has to pass before the DC voltage is switched on by the inverter or what.... but, I connected the battery, flipped the switch, and nada.

After we came home, the trailer stayed in our driveway for about 4 days while I took my time cleaning up and winterizing and the battery power was functional the entire time.
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