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Old 09-21-2018, 03:29 PM   #41
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My suspicion is the manufacture over in China decided they wanted to sell something so they threw together a design for a light based on other RV lights and grabbed a schematic for an LED light circuit and away they went. Problem is they may have designed it for just 12v and the trailer voltage can range higher. A lot of the older automotive LED's had that problem at first and now most are fairly reliable,


Here is the company if you want to investigate. I emailed them before and they said it was designed for 12v DC. When I asked what's the highest voltage it could handle was they replied back 12v is what it is designed for. Possible language barrier but also possible that is the limit on what it can handle.



DDS01-008 | 12V RV Lighting | Products | WaysPride China Ltd
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Old 09-21-2018, 04:08 PM   #42
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If anyone is interested in changing to the ones we have in our 2015 trailer, they're from Diamond Group. Replaceable LEDs, and also available in warm white for a more pleasing color. Pricey though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJ6ZQ6Q..._l1vPBbQE9Q48H
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:48 PM   #43
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I talked to someone who was in the power supply/LED light manufacturing business and he mentioned the LED lights have the power supply in there to regulates the voltage.. flickering probably occurs when the capacitors was heated and the liquid inside dried up (bad/low quality capacitor) -- there's probably a technical word here but I can't remember it. anyway. he suggested that if I want to weed out the potentially bad ones early on I should just do burn in tests for those lights.. maybe leave them on for 3-4 days..
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:01 PM   #44
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if you have the lights I have, this is one of the LED arrays...



it looks like they just have an array of LEDs with a current limiting resistor for each column of 3 LEDs, and a bridge diode to ensure they don't get reverse polarity. no regulator, no capacitors.
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:03 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
If anyone is interested in changing to the ones we have in our 2015 trailer, they're from Diamond Group. Replaceable LEDs, and also available in warm white for a more pleasing color. Pricey though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJ6ZQ6Q..._l1vPBbQE9Q48H
Reace told me today, they are Kaper II model # L09-0111-NW .... but these look identical to the Diamond Group ones, and probably come from the same chinese factory.

FWIW, I ordered a 'warm white' LED replacement from Diamond Group via Amazon, and will let you know how they compare with the originals when I get it. I dislike how cold the lighting is in my trailer.
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:46 PM   #46
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Reace told me today, they are Kaper II model # L09-0111-NW .... but these look identical to the Diamond Group ones, and probably come from the same chinese factory.
Yep, you're correct. The Kaper II looks identical to mine.

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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
FWIW, I ordered a 'warm white' LED replacement from Diamond Group via Amazon, and will let you know how they compare with the originals when I get it. I dislike how cold the lighting is in my trailer.
I think you'll like the warm white John. I replaced most of my pancake bulbs with warm white ones and the color is much nicer. Not harsh.

Some folks have added gel filters to the inside of their LED light covers to soften or turn the light more amber. That works well too.
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Old 09-23-2018, 03:47 PM   #47
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hahahaha, got the 'Diamond Group' warm white LED array I ordered off amazon.

package says... KAPER-II



installed it, its only /slightly/ yellower than the stock lights in the Escape. i'll have to se ehow it is at night to tell for sure.
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Old 09-23-2018, 05:42 PM   #48
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hahahaha, got the 'Diamond Group' warm white LED array I ordered off amazon.

package says... KAPER-II



installed it, its only /slightly/ yellower than the stock lights in the Escape. i'll have to se ehow it is at night to tell for sure.
We noticed the WW was much warmer than the stock ones John, at least when compared side by side in the double fixture. If you want even better color correction, I'd recommend some high quality gel filters they use in photography.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...Zt_D_BwE&smp=y
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Old 09-23-2018, 06:24 PM   #49
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I'm probalby going to try and find some low output yellow/amber and red LEDs with compatible wedge bases, and swap them in for my astro parties. the red gel (rubylith, which is a really deep monochromatic red that doesn't let any blue or violet through) I put on the single side of the one controlled by the door frame switch melted onto the LEDs
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Old 09-23-2018, 06:47 PM   #50
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John,
In my last 3 Escapes I managed to wire a red LED into the light socket before the switch so that the red (or blue if you want) is on all the time. There is little heat and little chance of melting. But the light is just a night light. I did the kitchen and bath, worked fine. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 09-23-2018, 07:11 PM   #51
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... Some folks have added gel filters to the inside of their LED light covers to soften or turn the light more amber. That works well too.
I read somewhere that Thomas Edison experimented with a lot of different elements trying to get his new electric light bulb to match the warm white hue of those coal oil lanterns of the day that everyone had become accustomed to. Maybe true, maybe not....
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Old 09-23-2018, 07:48 PM   #52
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I read somewhere that Thomas Edison experimented with a lot of different elements trying to get his new electric light bulb to match the warm white hue of those coal oil lanterns of the day that everyone had become accustomed to. Maybe true, maybe not....
Thomas Edison didn't start on incandescent lamps until after there had been a century of research, including trying many filament materials and lots of working bulbs; I think the goal of his company was just a filament that lasted a reasonable period of time. They settled on carbon, which of course was not the material which was eventually successful - that's tungsten. The commercialization of tungsten filaments was the work of European developers.

Incandescent lamp filaments are more efficient if they can operate closer to the temperature which corresponds to blackbody radiation in the middle of the human sensing range (apparently 6,600 K is ideal); none of them can withstand running hot enough to be even close to optimal. "Warmer" light ironically means running at lower temperature, with the warmest light corresponding to the least efficient bulbs.

Matching the appearance of those horrible coal oil lanterns sounds like marketing spin to me.

Now, with the common method of efficiently making light (in small sizes) being running an LED which emits blue light, with some of that light converted to longer wavelengths by phosphors, the challenge is getting the colour temperature of "white" light lower without affecting efficiency too much.
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Old 09-23-2018, 08:18 PM   #53
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Then you have the Centennial light bulb...https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centennial_Light
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Old 10-01-2018, 07:44 AM   #54
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Has anyone had any experience replacing the older (failing) lights in the 2nd generation trailer with the new ones ETI uses (Kaper II model # L09-0111-NW)? I think they are a slightly longer. I was just wondering about how they mount. I really don't want to see screws sticking out of the top of my trailer
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:23 AM   #55
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Has anyone had any experience replacing the older (failing) lights in the 2nd generation trailer with the new ones ETI uses (Kaper II model # L09-0111-NW)? I think they are a slightly longer. I was just wondering about how they mount. I really don't want to see screws sticking out of the top of my trailer
Stewart, Escape went back to the older lights with the replaceable bulbs as in my 2015? Didn't know that.
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Old 10-02-2018, 09:59 PM   #56
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John in Santa Cruz- Have you been able to install the new lights yet? Just wondering how the installation might go. I have a few to replace.

Thanks,
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Old 10-03-2018, 12:13 AM   #57
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John in Santa Cruz- Have you been able to install the new lights yet? Just wondering how the installation might go. I have a few to replace.

Thanks,
OldstersOutside

I replaced one of the LED arrays, with the warm white version to see how it looked, I haven't had to replace any fixtures.

now, I've also gotten some intentionally low brightness amber and red LEDs with wedge bases that fit in these same fixtures, and tested them, too. I think the amber will be great for my star parties, and maybe even as a general night light.
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Old 05-07-2019, 12:14 PM   #58
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flickering bulbs

Hi,
We've had a couple led bulbs begin to flash like strobe lights. The most recent one was past the warranty, but since it was only a couple months they sent one. These fixtures do not have replaceable bulbs, you have to replace the entire fixture. I want to retrofit these with fixtures that have replaceable bulbs, and they sent me a link to the one they install now:


https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...ed-l09-0111-nw


Has anyone retrofitted these before? Was the fixture pattern close enough?
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Old 05-07-2019, 12:45 PM   #59
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I just received one of the new ones. They are about 2 1/2 inches longer and maybe one inch wider than the original. I have not had a chance to install it yet, but will in about two weeks.
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Old 05-07-2019, 01:16 PM   #60
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I ended up just ordering some more of the Facon lights that mine came with. The good news is, the newer revision does indeed seem to have significantly more regulation circuitry on it so I'm optimistic about it lasting longer at 13-14V instead of 12.0V.
The bad news is that the casing isn't quite identical to the older ones. They're about the same length but slightly narrower, and the screw holes are a bit further apart. Still close enough to work, but if you look closely you can see where the old fixture was.

I installed them about 3-4 weeks ago and so far no sign of a flicker, but I probably can't safely declare victory for another few months.
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