Overhead light failure - Page 5

**John in Santa Cruz** · 06-20-2019, 02:11 PM

for the touch screen tablet application, btw, rubylith works great, because its thin and flexible enough that the touchscreen is fully functional, even if you don't peel the backing off (I usually secure it with black paper masking tape on the top and bottom edges of the tablet).

WaltP · 06-21-2019, 10:05 AM

I had one fail as well. I emailed ETI and the response was that the warranty does not cover the light fixtures. That seems pretty poor to me. This brand, SunLink, is not as widely available as other brands, but the best price I could find was at Forest River.
https://www.forestriverelectronics.c...cake-light.htm

Walt

sclifrickson · 06-21-2019, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WaltP

I had one fail as well. I emailed ETI and the response was that the warranty does not cover the light fixtures. That seems pretty poor to me. This brand, SunLink, is not as widely available as other brands, but the best price I could find was at Forest River.
https://www.forestriverelectronics.c...cake-light.htm

Walt

Since when? In the past they’ve replaced lights for many others under warranty. Did they change the fine print on their two-year “hitch to bumper” warranty? Or is whoever answered your email wrong? Were it me I would call them and ask these questions.

caddoster · 06-21-2019, 11:39 AM

The email we got recently said warranty for LED lights are for one year. They do have the lights in stock and will sell them, we decided to just get non-matching different lights going forward. The last time we got a replacement light from them it was a little over a year (by a month or two).

gbaglo · 06-21-2019, 11:55 AM

I presume the LED lights are covered, as other appliances, by the appliance manufacturer and are warrantied for one year. It's like if you blew a tire on your tow vehicle. Any warranty would be by the tire manufacturer, not the vehicle manufacturer.

steve dunham · 06-21-2019, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I presume the LED lights are covered, as other appliances, by the appliance manufacturer and are warrantied for one year. It's like if you blew a tire on your tow vehicle. Any warranty would be by the tire manufacturer, not the vehicle manufacturer.

So if a headlight goes bad on my new truck then I should not take it to the dealer for repairs under warranty but go after the headlight manufacturer and then replace the defective part myself ?
The RV trailer industry needs a lemon law similar to the auto industry
Auto manufacturers played the same game for years hiding behind phony warranty exclusions and got away with it but that doesn’t make it right .

Boots1956 · 10-13-2021, 03:06 PM

HI,
I sent you an email, but can't tell if it sent or not. We live in River Chase and have a 2015 Escape 21. Saw on the forum that you live in Canyon Lake.
We have a light out in the trailer. I was wondering if you knew how to remove the cover - I know it sounds dumb, but we can't see how to do it and don't want to break anything. Do you know?
We are near you, River Chase.
Hope to hear from you soon.

**John in Santa Cruz** · 10-13-2021, 03:18 PM

if its the lights that look like this...

you slide the lens about 1/4 inch away from the middle, like this,

then gently remove it

note that is NOT the original light inside, its a generic 'warm white' LED with the same 'wedge base'. the original board is held in place with a little screw, but these warm ones are smaller/lighter, and don't need the screw.

I've also modified a bunch of these replacement lights, by using an xacto knife to slice off some of hte load resistors from the back side to make them less bright. some I left full bright, but most of the time at night, I like soft mood lighting, not glaring work light.

here's the back of one with 6 of the 8 resistors removed...

and here's one as new next to the sliced one.

,

here's a full replacement light, and a chopped one (probably a 4-resistor, so 50% of the original brightness).

**John in Santa Cruz** · 10-13-2021, 03:20 PM

oh, these are the replacement LEDs I'm using.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C5QC3H6/

Boots1956 · 10-13-2021, 05:12 PM

Hi. My cover does not look like that. It is one oblong piece with an "on/off" switch on the front side. Thanks for trying to help me. We have a 2015 21' Escape.

**John in Santa Cruz** · 10-13-2021, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boots1956

Hi. My cover does not look like that. It is one oblong piece with an "on/off" switch on the front side. Thanks for trying to help me. We have a 2015 21' Escape.

mine is a 2014 E21. afaik, those used the same lights. some of them are singles, they open the same way, slide the cover away from the switch about 1/4" then gently pull it down and off.

Emjay · 10-19-2021, 08:38 AM

Asked an RV repair guy how difficult it is to replace one of the incandescent lights in my 2010 with LED. He said it’s easy to just replace the Incan. Bulb with a 921 LED. Anyone have an opinion? Is this true? If it is that easy, what kind would I be able to find and use?

cpaharley2008 · 10-19-2021, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Emjay

Asked an RV repair guy how difficult it is to replace one of the incandescent lights in my 2010 with LED. He said it’s easy to just replace the Incan. Bulb with a 921 LED. Anyone have an opinion? Is this true? If it is that easy, what kind would I be able to find and use?

Got a picture?

Jim Bennett · 10-19-2021, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Emjay

Asked an RV repair guy how difficult it is to replace one of the incandescent lights in my 2010 with LED. He said it’s easy to just replace the Incan. Bulb with a 921 LED. Anyone have an opinion? Is this true? If it is that easy, what kind would I be able to find and use?

I did just that with my 2009 19, and it worked fine. Not sure if the bulb number anymore, but there were a few options.

Emjay · 10-19-2021, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Got a picture?

pIcutre? Well, yes if I can figure out how to post it here.

Emjay

Emjay · 10-19-2021, 11:49 AM

after I learn how to spell, that is.
Emjay

Emjay · 10-19-2021, 12:25 PM

Here is a picture of the fixture in my 2010 Escape:

**John in Santa Cruz** · 10-19-2021, 12:52 PM

921 is a 'wedge base'... also equiv to 194.

here's a 10 pack of 'warm white' (you can instead select 'natural white' if you want more white, less warm)
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ens/3305/9902/

I have used MANY bulbs from that vendor with very good results.

this particular one is NOT sensitive to polarity (cheaper ones often are, so only work when inserted one way), *and* its 'regulated' so doesn't flicker when your power converter cycles through charging states... unregulated LEDs will flicker as other appliances switch on and off, or as the power converter cycles through charging states.

Emjay · 10-19-2021, 05:17 PM

Thank you for the info. I'm looking into this right now.
Emjay

**John in Santa Cruz** · 10-19-2021, 05:39 PM

key specifications for LEDs are color temperature, lumens (how much total light), and good ones specify like 9-20 or 10-30 volts or whatever, which means they are regulated. cheap ones that specify like 11-14v are unregulated and often flicker on RV power systems.

another specification thats harder to find is CRI, or Color Rendering Index. bulbs with a poor CRI will often have off tints, like instead of a pure warm white, they will have a yellow-greenish look. generally a CRI in the 80-90 range will look good, higher is better. this has nothign to do with the color temperature, thats measured in K, around 4000k are whiter ('natural white'), around 5000k and up tend to be bluish or 'cool white', while around 3500K and below will be warm. I prefer warm to natural, especially indoors at night, while natural to cool may be better for working light.

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