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Old 01-29-2015, 10:38 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Problem fixed: having the hub machined resolved the wheel locking up. Now have the P3 set at Boost 1 and 4.8.
Excellent!
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:26 PM   #22
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Hmmmmmm. I just took delivery of my 2016 21'

When setting up the brake controller I had NO boost, and setting at 12. Wheels would NOT lock, when I triggered the trailer brakes, it would slow down, but that was it.

Tug is a Toyota Tundra, P3 brake controller, Should I lower setting and increase the Boost to 1? and try again?
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:33 PM   #23
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Sorry I have a prodigy P2 controller. But again, I thought as I was setting it up, I should have trailer brake lock when brake is manually triggered.

Even set at 12 volts, when I trigger the trailer brakes, they do slow my tug down some, but not a significant pull. NO Boost setting.

Trailer literally just came off the truck from Dave on Saturday.

Should I have the controller checked, Trailer brakes? Or should I restart setting with a boost on?

Thanks everyone
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:43 PM   #24
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Hi Don- Congrats on the new 21! Just checked Dexter's Electric Brake Pdf:

Before any synchronization(with your TV's brakes) can occur you have to burnish in the brakes by applying the brakes 20-30 times with approximately 20 mph decrease in speed, e.g. 40 -20 mph. Allow ample time for brakes to cool between application. This allows the brake shoes and magnets to slightly "wear in" to the drum surfaces.

Also, you should adjust the brakes after 200 miles.

They mention that lock up and grabbiness or harshness can be caused by lack of synchronization, too high of a threshold voltage (over 2 volts), or under adjusted brakes.

I understand that you are saying they are not braking enough, however that still may very well be due to them not being synchronized.
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Old 03-31-2016, 02:12 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Don W. View Post
Sorry I have a prodigy P2 controller. But again, I thought as I was setting it up, I should have trailer brake lock when brake is manually triggered.
Again, from Dexter:

BRAKES - Why can't I lock and slide my electric brakes?
On an unloaded trailer, you may be able to lock up your brakes if your electric brake controller is supplying full amperage to the brakes. When loaded to capacity, you may not be able to lock your brakes as electric brakes are designed to slow the trailer at a controlled rate, and not designed to lock up the wheels on a fully loaded trailer. Our brakes are designed to meet all applicable safety standards. All of our brakes will perform better after numerous burnish stops to seat the brake linings to the drums.
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Old 03-31-2016, 02:29 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don W. View Post
When setting up the brake controller I had NO boost, and setting at 12. Wheels would NOT lock, when I triggered the trailer brakes, it would slow down, but that was it.

Tug is a Toyota Tundra...
Although adjusting the controller gain so that the trailer's wheels lock up under full manual application is standard procedure, it really isn't a very good method to get the right amount of braking. Whether they lock up depends on factors such as tire traction which have nothing to do with the right setting.

Fundamentally the lack of lock-up just means that you are not getting enough braking action to overcome the available traction. What you want has nothing to do with traction: you want the trailer brakes doing their share of the braking work.

Usually this happens when the trailer has a relatively high load on the tires compared to the size of the brakes - my Boler's brakes work fine but have never been able to lock up the tires on pavement - but that shouldn't be the case with the Escape 21' (since it has four 10" brakes on a relatively light trailer). It seems likely to me that the brakes are just not working well yet, either due to adjustment or a need for the shoes to be to be "worn in".

I ended up adjusting the controller based on feel: the adjustment is right when it only takes a bit more force on the tug's brake pedal to slow down than it would without the trailer. With a relatively heavy tug, this can be hard to judge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don W. View Post
Should I have the controller checked, Trailer brakes? Or should I restart setting with a boost on?
It's unlikely that there's anything wrong with the controller. Is there is any point in the wiring where you can get at the brake wire (positive side) while the trailer is plugged into the tug? If so, check the voltage when the manual lever of the controller is fully applied - if it goes to about 12 volts, the controller is doing what it can.

Yes, as Ross explained the brakes may need some work.

The boost setting of the Prodigy series controllers is just a pulse of extra output when the brakes are first applied, to make the braking action more responsive; it doesn't make any difference to maximum output, or steady-state output if steady braking is continued. Manual application of the lever on the controller overrides the acceleration-proportional and boost signals, so boost should be irrelevant to the setup process.
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Old 06-02-2017, 05:44 PM   #27
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Climbing down into Osoyoos for the rally, our P3 suddenly displayed "Overload No Brakes". After my heart climbed back down outta my throat I realized that we did indeed still have trailer brakes. I tried making a boost adjustment and a gain adjustment but neither took away the fault warning. Finally I put it in trouble shooting mode and watched amp and then voltage outputs and saw that they were both normal. When we finally had cell coverage and then when I got thru to Teckonska, they put me thru to a tech. After asking a few questions he said to send it in for a replacement. I told him that we were on the road and I was fine with leaving it in trouble shooting mode as long as he didn't think there was any danger of it failing completely. He said it would be fine.

I got the feeling by how fast he went to a replacement that this might be a problem they have seen before.
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Old 06-02-2017, 11:24 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thoer View Post
Climbing down into Osoyoos for the rally, our P3 suddenly displayed "Overload No Brakes". After my heart climbed back down outta my throat I realized that we did indeed still have trailer brakes. I tried making a boost adjustment and a gain adjustment but neither took away the fault warning. Finally I put it in trouble shooting mode and watched amp and then voltage outputs and saw that they were both normal. When we finally had cell coverage and then when I got thru to Teckonska, they put me thru to a tech. After asking a few questions he said to send it in for a replacement. I told him that we were on the road and I was fine with leaving it in trouble shooting mode as long as he didn't think there was any danger of it failing completely. He said it would be fine.

I got the feeling by how fast he went to a replacement that this might be a problem they have seen before.
Timely post....Our P3 started displaying the "Overload No Brakes" error message last summer. Had the trailer brakes redone, checked the wiring on the trailer and tow vehicle but would still get the message intermittently, was driving me nuts. Just got the new one from E trailer in the mail today, installed it and it looks like I'm good to go. Scott

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Old 06-12-2017, 04:21 PM   #29
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I want to give kudos to Tekonsha for customer service. I called today about sending mine in for the replacement the tech said they would provide when our problem above started.

The tech I talked with today, asked for my serial number, and then said that a new one would be shipped out and that they would also provide a return label for the return of the defective one.
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Old 06-12-2017, 05:44 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don W. View Post
Hmmmmmm. I just took delivery of my 2016 21'

When setting up the brake controller I had NO boost, and setting at 12. Wheels would NOT lock, when I triggered the trailer brakes, it would slow down, but that was it.

Tug is a Toyota Tundra, P3 brake controller, Should I lower setting and increase the Boost to 1? and try again?
FWIW, for balanced braking on my 17B/Pilot my P2 is set at 9. Maybe there is a big difference between P2 and P3 settings? On my old trailer I had it set at 8-9 as well, so it seems right in the ballpark.

I don't use the "lock up" method of checking trailer brakes. The 15" wheel/tire setup is large enough to provide a lot of contact with pavement so will be very hard to lock up.
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