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Old 01-28-2015, 07:35 PM   #1
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P3 settings for 21

Have a problem with the passenger-side real wheel locking up. To avoid this I have to set the P3 to no boost and at 3.5 or below.

Had a mechanic pull the drum off and everything looked good to his eye and the magnets were getting the proper voltage. Other that perhaps the hub being out of round am not sure other than is 3.4 a setting others use?

Have spoken with Dexter and am getting a call back from them tomorrow to discuss further.

What settings are being used out there and is anyone else out there having any problems?
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Old 01-28-2015, 07:41 PM   #2
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My Prodigy instructions say not to use boost on trailers as light as my Escape. You might want to review those instructions for the weight of the 21.
I suspect that having boost turned on was the problem. Mine accidentally got turned on, and I had a few disturbing moments until I realized what had happened.
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Old 01-28-2015, 07:50 PM   #3
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Looking closely at the instructions one might infer that Boost 1 could be correct for the 21. In fact the boost was set on 3 somehow, however with boost turned off the wheel is still locking up when controller is set above 3.5. It seems odd to me that it is just one wheel that is locking up. At 3.4 it doesn't seem to have enough grab- not like it did with my Prodigy RF and the 17. It was set around 4.5
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Old 01-28-2015, 07:53 PM   #4
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Think I'm at 4.5 with my 17.
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Old 01-28-2015, 08:03 PM   #5
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To me, the fact that just one wheel is locking certainly suggests a mechanical issue with that brake.

Torflex suspensions don't load-share, so the leading and trailing wheels on the same side of the trailer could carry different loads, and thus have different traction, causing the less-loaded one to lock more easily. In this case, since the trailing wheel is locking it could indicate the trailer is a bit nose-down. Since it only happens on one side, I doubt this is the actual problem... although if the trailer is driver's-side-heavy and nose-down the trailing passenger-side tire would be least loaded of the bunch.

Since the brake magnets are simply connected in parallel, I can't imagine any way it could be an electrical problem, unless the brake magnet itself is defective. A defect causing more braking action seems unlikely to me.

Something is likely bent or mis-adjusted in that one brake assembly. I would open it up and see; unfortunately, that means taking the hub off, bearings and all. I realize this has already been done, but that still seems like the place to look.

There are so many factors in determining the right controller gain setting that I won't guess what the right setting might be, but 3.4 is pretty low in the range of possible settings, so it seems likely that when the grabbing is resolved the appropriate setting will turn out to be higher. First things first... need to fix the brake at that wheel.
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Old 01-28-2015, 08:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Think I'm at 4.5 with my 17.
Interesting.... with twice as many of the same brakes and less than twice the weight, the 21' should require a lower setting. On the other hand, there are still questions of tire diameter differences.
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Old 01-28-2015, 08:35 PM   #7
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I'd check the ground wire is well bonded and solder the connectors too. You could hang a volt meter across the brake wires at the 1st connection nearest to the brakes and see if there is a bad splice dropping voltage to one side.

I'm running boost 1 and it's working well. 19' and 2005 4runner V8. Makes sense with below, vehicle heavier then trailer.

A boost setting of b.1 is for trailers that weigh less than the tow vehicle. A boost setting of b.2 is the for a trailer that weights nearly the same as the tow vehicle. A boost setting of b.3 (the highest) is when the trailer weighs up to or more than 40 percent of the vehicle.
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Old 01-28-2015, 09:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
To me, the fact that just one wheel is locking certainly suggests a mechanical issue with that brake.

Torflex suspensions don't load-share, so the leading and trailing wheels on the same side of the trailer could carry different loads, and thus have different traction, causing the less-loaded one to lock more easily. In this case, since the trailing wheel is locking it could indicate the trailer is a bit nose-down. Since it only happens on one side, I doubt this is the actual problem... although if the trailer is driver's-side-heavy and nose-down the trailing passenger-side tire would be least loaded of the bunch.

Since the brake magnets are simply connected in parallel, I can't imagine any way it could be an electrical problem, unless the brake magnet itself is defective. A defect causing more braking action seems unlikely to me.

Something is likely bent or mis-adjusted in that one brake assembly. I would open it up and see; unfortunately, that means taking the hub off, bearings and all. I realize this has already been done, but that still seems like the place to look.

There are so many factors in determining the right controller gain setting that I won't guess what the right setting might be, but 3.4 is pretty low in the range of possible settings, so it seems likely that when the grabbing is resolved the appropriate setting will turn out to be higher. First things first... need to fix the brake at that wheel.
The mechanic noticed the rear end rising up during parking lot braking with controller only. He thought the rear end was light and it might be better to fill the empty fresh water tank that sits behind the rear axle. Might have made some difference but the problem still persists and think there is still some undiagnosed problem with that brake assembly. Wondering what Dexter's input will be.

I prefer the stronger settings, especially when we're traveling down grades, but cannot be sure the wheel isn't locking then either, which of course can be dangerous. We can only hear it at slow speeds, especially when coming to a complete stop. The original tire is now only suited to be a spare due to the skidding over time. We have about 3K miles on the trailer now.
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:05 PM   #9
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It may be that there is not enough weight over that tire.
Try a 24 of Canadian on that corner it may help temporary.
Until there all gone.
Or it could be a twisted frame . You may want to have the frame checked.
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:24 PM   #10
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Okay, this is old SKOOL and maybe totally wrong, but I thought only the leading axle should provide brakes on a tandem axle trailer. The rear axle shouldn't even be braking unless extreme conditions.

But what do I know...
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