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Old 10-23-2018, 10:15 AM   #21
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:42 AM   #22
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I agree it should not have anything to do with the ground fault 120 volt side of the system. I was not paying attention to the actual devices that were not working.

However I would suggest to anyone that it is a good idea to unplug your trailer from AC (and DC if you like) then remove the front cover of the fuse panel and carefully tighten all the screws where the wires attach on both the DC and AC side.

Also check the ground lug on the rear of the panel where all the wires attach. For that matter all the connections in the area you can see.

I know a few have found the screws not as secure over time and this is a good place to start solving your problem. The fuse could be ok but the wire may not be making the best connection right beside it resulting in the...but working today situation.
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:53 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Sherm2954 View Post
update:

I don't have a multi-meter, but I'll be buying one and learning how to use it.
Without meaning to be facetious, you almost don't have anything to learn using a basic $10 type meter. Turn it to the 20 volt DC range and start touching terminals. They make trouble shooting so much easier.

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Old 10-23-2018, 11:42 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
I agree it should not have anything to do with the ground fault 120 volt side of the system. I was not paying attention to the actual devices that were not working.

However I would suggest to anyone that it is a good idea to unplug your trailer from AC (and DC if you like) then remove the front cover of the fuse panel and carefully tighten all the screws where the wires attach on both the DC and AC side.

Also check the ground lug on the rear of the panel where all the wires attach. For that matter all the connections in the area you can see.

I know a few have found the screws not as secure over time and this is a good place to start solving your problem. The fuse could be ok but the wire may not be making the best connection right beside it resulting in the...but working today situation.
2X on checking all the connections at the converter (and, if you are adventurous, the rest of the trailer). There is enough vibration from driving that an annual check is a good idea.
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Old 10-23-2018, 05:00 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Sherm2954 View Post
the lights and fan are working - don't ask me why. that actually bothers me more than them not working at all.
I find that more disturbing, too. Having this sort of problem intermittently is a strong indication of a bad connection in the wiring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sherm2954 View Post
We are in an older park for a few days, but it seems unlikely to me that a power surge or deficit would impact two lights and the hood (all in a row on the driver side). I have a Power Grip circuit analyzer? plugged into the 30 amp between the supply and my cord and it indicates the wiring is correct - but that obviously doesn't address the issues of power surge....also, in the middle of the night our gfi outlet next to the sink tripped. nothing plugged in and i checked for moisture in the cabinet - all dry...i'm baffled.
I agree that any 120 V AC power issues are unrelated to the 12 V DC issue.

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Originally Posted by Sherm2954 View Post
I did a visual on each fuse, pulled it and checked it and replaced it. I'll be taking the bed apart this afternoon to get behind the converter.
I don't have a multi-meter, but I'll be buying one and learning how to use it.
This type of fuse can occasionally look okay, but still be failed with a tiny break at one end. That's not the most likely source of an intermittent connection, but replacing the fuse with a new one would eliminate that possibility.
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