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Old 07-31-2015, 05:59 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
A good periodic wiping with 303 will prevent the yellowing and deterioration. Of course, too late if it's broken.
I agree it's good stuff we've used it for years.
Like they say in the commercial "I put that **** on everything"
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Old 07-31-2015, 06:57 PM   #22
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Thanks to you all for the quick and thoughtful responses. We were inspired by certain posts to go to Menards and look around. We came home with clear plastic tubing, 5/16" inside diameter which is exactly the diameter of the broken plastic rod. We cut a length of tubing and forced it onto each of the rod pieces. It is a very tight fit inside the plastic tubing. Didn't use glue even. It seems like it may work just fine and the door holder is working once again with this nearly invisible, quick fix.
Well done It'll probably last longer than the original one.

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Old 07-31-2015, 07:36 PM   #23
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Oh my stars, I'm sorry for posting about the screen door when you meant the main door catch.

At anyrate, most RV manufacturers went to the plastic door catch, because the usual stuff was made out of mild steel... which rusts. No one wants rust stains running down their gelcoat.

However, if you need to replace the catch, perhaps you would want something in stainless steel... THAT doesn't make it rust free... just less likely to send stains down the side of the trailer. It's still a maintenance issue.. pay attention:

Amazon.com: RV Designer Collection E224 4 Inch Stainless Steel "T" Self Closing Entry Door Holder: Automotive

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Old 09-09-2019, 06:04 PM   #24
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Ok. Mine broke as well and I performed a temporary fix with tubing and a couple hose clamps.

I think I want to replace it with a stainless steel unit but I have never experienced the joy of pop rivets.
-Can anyone point me to a good "kit" that has some rivets and pop rivet tool?
-How about a good "how-to" video which uses a fiberglass camper.
-I notice existing door holder has some caulk around the edge. Do you suppose ETI caulked the perimeter after riveting or did they caulk the backside before riveting and then scrap away the excess? Proflex a good product for this application?

Thanks!
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Old 09-09-2019, 06:46 PM   #25
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Just about any rivet gun will work, but I find this type easiest to use:

WORKPRO 10-inch Heavy Duty Rivet Gun - 4 Nosepieces Attached on Grips, 5-in-1 Hand Riveter Set with 100-Piece Rivets Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJQTXRL..._fmUDDbXRRK1PA

Also, there are a few rivets used on my trailer that are actually recessed, and this tool makes them easier to get to.
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Old 09-09-2019, 07:04 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by huskersteffy View Post
-How about a good "how-to" video which uses a fiberglass camper.
Not exactly your application but you’ll get the idea how it goes

https://m.facebook.com/watch/?v=113727918754768&_rdr
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Old 10-06-2019, 03:28 PM   #27
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Here is the replacement one I went with (thanks Donna D!):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note that it is 4" long but the original is 6".... still works fine though. Some burrs on backside from stamping. Be sure to file off.

Since it is stainless steel, I would recommend using SS rivets in lieu of standard aluminum. Otherwise, you may see some corrosion due to galvanic action. I used 3/16" Dia X 3/8" length.

Holes don't line up exactly top to bottom, but attach the top two rivets then enlarge the bottom two holes with a 3/16" drill. Put some silicone on the backside before attaching. Same situation for the matching catch bracket on the door.

Fits, works and I am happy. Wondering if the spring will rust and fail first. Will see how it holds up.

Thanks to rbryan4 and rubicon327 for the riveting "how-to" tips!
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Old 10-06-2019, 05:49 PM   #28
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I needed to replace the catch on the door. Did the plastic one. Rivets into my door must be no shorter than 1/2 inch. Otherwise, the ball end will nest into the fiberglass and will then not be fully seated.
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Old 10-06-2019, 06:45 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by huskersteffy View Post

Since it is stainless steel, I would recommend using SS rivets in lieu of standard aluminum. Otherwise, you may see some corrosion due to galvanic action. I used 3/16" Dia X 3/8" length.
Nothing wrong with s/s rivets and I've used a whole bunch of them. But be forewarned that they'e a lot tougher to snap than aluminum rivets. Doesn't bother me as I have an air powered riveter and a hydraulic riveter as well as a long handled one. But the first 3/16" s/s you use with a standard short handle tool might make you wonder if you're using the right tool. Squeeze harder.

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Old 10-06-2019, 07:37 PM   #30
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Nothing wrong with s/s rivets and I've used a whole bunch of them. But be forewarned that they'e a lot tougher to snap than aluminum rivets.
4-Sure, my shoulder feels really weird tonight.
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:55 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by huskersteffy View Post
Here is the replacement one I went with (thanks Donna D!):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note that it is 4" long but the original is 6".... still works fine though. Some burrs on backside from stamping. Be sure to file off.

Since it is stainless steel, I would recommend using SS rivets in lieu of standard aluminum. Otherwise, you may see some corrosion due to galvanic action. I used 3/16" Dia X 3/8" length.

Holes don't line up exactly top to bottom, but attach the top two rivets then enlarge the bottom two holes with a 3/16" drill. Put some silicone on the backside before attaching. Same situation for the matching catch bracket on the door.

Fits, works and I am happy. Wondering if the spring will rust and fail first. Will see how it holds up.

Thanks to rbryan4 and rubicon327 for the riveting "how-to" tips!
When our plastic one broke replaced with stainless steel one . I just used the aluminum rivets . They still look good and it’s been a couple years now . Pat
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:59 PM   #32
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I went with a magnetic door stop so it was automatic and hands free.
If you want to see the details it is at this link. http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...tml#post267123
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Old 06-16-2020, 10:57 PM   #33
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I’ve used a lot of stainless steel pop rivets especially around swimming pools. The only thing I worried about was whether or not they would crush and/or splinter the fiberglass before the rivet center snapped off. I could have seen some of them from the inside if I would have looked but never did. After I got a good result with the aluminum rivets on the belly band I stuck with them. I used a small 90 degree pick into the hole and marked it with my thumb and measured the length. I’m pretty sure I used 3/16 grip range but longer would be ok I’m sure. I was just a little paranoid about bulging the “elephant hide”.

About 2 years ago we had a true value hardware go out of business. I waited till late in the sale when they had reduced the prices as far as they were going to and then I bought about 10 packages of Pop rivets, all the American made Nicholson files,(6 or 7) and a few other saw blades also USA made Lennox stuff. I’m probably set for life if the actuaries are any good. However I recently ran out of zip ties so need a couple hundred 7.5 inch that I’ll probably never use. Probably use my stimulus check to buy them.
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Old 06-17-2020, 10:22 AM   #34
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McMaster-Carr

They are an industrial supply house and carry pop rivets for compressible materials, plastic pop rivets, stainless ones and every imaginable do-dad, tool, device or thingy you could ever desire. Their catalog used to be about 4"-5" thick. All on-line now, I assume.
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Old 06-17-2020, 11:45 AM   #35
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When our plastic one broke replaced with stainless steel one . I just used the aluminum rivets . They still look good and it’s been a couple years now . Pat
a couple pictures
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Old 06-17-2020, 08:26 PM   #36
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They are an industrial supply house and carry pop rivets for compressible materials, plastic pop rivets, stainless ones and every imaginable do-dad, tool, device or thingy you could ever desire. Their catalog used to be about 4"-5" thick. All on-line now, I assume.
Hi Tom
From the time I started working with my dad in the Standard Oil Station I enjoyed studying catalogs, then later in all kinds of maintenance we had both salesmen for hardware companies stop in and offer all kinds of products as well as leaving off or sending huge annual catalogs and sales flyers. I continue to get catalogs to this day and often order from them. Especially small specialty shops which I believe are very important to support and preserve.
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Old 06-18-2020, 12:54 AM   #37
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Hi Tom
From the time I started working with my dad in the Standard Oil Station I enjoyed studying catalogs, then later in all kinds of maintenance we had both salesmen for hardware companies stop in and offer all kinds of products as well as leaving off or sending huge annual catalogs and sales flyers. I continue to get catalogs to this day and often order from them. Especially small specialty shops which I believe are very important to support and preserve.
Iowa Dave

Huh? I started reading, and was all set to read a tall tale about cutting up the strong back cover page of a catalog into a an "I" shaped piece to perfectly replace the door keeper that was broke.


I do, however, remember those product catalogs. My cousins and I, when we were all little, were set on catalog stacks of varying heights, on chairs, so that we were all sitting up straight and proper at the family Thanksgiving dinner table.
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Old 06-18-2020, 09:36 AM   #38
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Hi Tom
From the time I started working with my dad in the Standard Oil Station I enjoyed studying catalogs, then later in all kinds of maintenance we had both salesmen for hardware companies stop in and offer all kinds of products as well as leaving off or sending huge annual catalogs and sales flyers. I continue to get catalogs to this day and often order from them. Especially small specialty shops which I believe are very important to support and preserve.
Iowa Dave
I once worked for a company named Ace Tank & Equipment, which built steel tanks and sold pumps and related equipment. They had a 2" thick catalog that they updated every 2 years. My first task with them was to deliver those catalogs to all our customers in the greater Portland, OR metro area. (It took me 4 weeks, and I learned every inch of Portland.) A lot of customers really loved those catalogs - they were full of interesting items.
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Old 06-18-2020, 10:02 AM   #39
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Sorry

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Huh? I started reading, and was all set to read a tall tale about cutting up the strong back cover page of a catalog into a an "I" shaped piece to perfectly replace the door keeper that was broke.


I do, however, remember those product catalogs. My cousins and I, when we were all little, were set on catalog stacks of varying heights, on chairs, so that we were all sitting up straight and proper at the family Thanksgiving dinner table.
Hi Don
Sorry to disappoint with a simple honest comment. I guess I could have related the symbiotic relationship between mail order catalogs and Iowa farmstead outhouses and then transitioned to the aerial photography phenomenon detected in rural one room school houses sometimes called the education triangle and on and on but I have to erect support structures for my pole beans today and all you readers need to take a breath. End of Sentence. Have a great day.
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Old 08-16-2020, 09:55 AM   #40
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Any reason (other than possibly appearance) to just leave the old broken pieces in place and put the new one up (both sides) with 3M double stick tape. Avoids drilling rivets and (possibly) having to drill new holes if the new ones do not match the old.
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