plastic door holder snapped

[Rossue]

Yeah, I did that for my side hatch latch. It doesn't get used much and when it does not for very long. Used 3M Command Strip. For the door I would use the VHB used on my solar panel. Would have a hard time removing it though the next time.

When a detailer broke my plastic one off last Spring I considered a metal one. Decided I would rather have the plastic one break again(lasted almost six years) than risk having my door damaged with some freak force being applied. Did drill out the rivets and install new ones. Not too bad, yet not a piece of cake either.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by marant

Any reason (other than possibly appearance) to just leave the old broken pieces in place and put the new one up (both sides) with 3M double stick tape. Avoids drilling rivets and (possibly) having to drill new holes if the new ones do not match the old.

Nothing wrong with doing that although I'd have to wonder why you wouldn't do the repair mentioned in post #16 rather than leave broken pieces hanging there and taping on a new one.

Ron

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by marant

Any reason (other than possibly appearance) to just leave the old broken pieces in place and put the new one up (both sides) with 3M double stick tape. Avoids drilling rivets and (possibly) having to drill new holes if the new ones do not match the old.

Actually, with the correct size (inner diameter) rubber tubing cut to length to fit and a bit of rubber cement or epoxy the tubing can be worked over the longer piece and then over the shorter piece. Easy, relatively quick repair.

[marant]

The problem is that I used that fix the first time it broke with a piece of copper pipe. Today, while washing the trailer I broke it again, flush with the fitting. Nothing to fit a sleeve over.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by sunrisetrucker

I agree it's good stuff we've used it for years.
Like they say in the commercial "I put that **** on everything"

Hi: sunrisetrucker... "A donut"? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by marant

The problem is that I used that fix the first time it broke with a piece of copper pipe. Today, while washing the trailer I broke it again, flush with the fitting. Nothing to fit a sleeve over.

Well, that sucks! Replacement time I guess.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by marant

Any reason (other than possibly appearance) to just leave the old broken pieces in place and put the new one up (both sides) with 3M double stick tape. Avoids drilling rivets and (possibly) having to drill new holes if the new ones do not match the old.

Mike: Ours broke recently and we replaced. Do it right and drill out the rivets and replace with same. I think you’ll be happiest with this in the long run. The holes on this one from etrailer lined up perfectly:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Doo...37210444B.html

[Rossue]

Problem with etrailer is their shipping costs when ordering under $100. Bought this on Amazon for $8.52 with free two-day shipping with Prime. Comes in Black, White, Gray & Colonial White. Holes lined up with this as well. Kinda like the Black...going stealth mode.
https://www.amazon.com/RV-Designer-E...s%2C234&sr=8-5

[marant]

After searching for replacement items and ideas for the door holdback I realized none of them had any real advantages and did have some disadvantages. I decided I did not wish to use an expensive replacement that would just break in the future, and did not really want to drill out rivets and install new ones if not necessary.


The Shade Tree Mechanic took over and came up with the following:
1. Leave the mounting on the trailer side and use diagonal cutters to cut out the small piece trapped inside.
2. Purchase a 1' length of copper ground wire at Lowes ($.90).
3. Drill a 3/16 hole in one side of the mounting. Be careful that your drill chuck does not mark the side of the trailer.
4. Using a vise and pliers bend one end to fit in the door attachment and the other so it can slide into the trailer side mounting. It will take some maneuvering and a series of small bends to get it through the drilled hole. Then you can bend it enough that it does not come out.
5. Coat the holdback with car wax or some other substance so it does not weather and mark the side of the trailer.


I expect that it will be strong enough to do the job well. Not exactly esthetic, but I can work on that in the future. Not really a problem for me on a 10 year old Escape.

[Vermilye]

If you expect to keep breaking the plastic ones, metal door holders are available. Not as pretty, but probably won't break.

[marant]

That is why I went with the copper ground wire.

[Donna D.]

How about shiny stainless steel: RV Designer E226, Self Closing Door Holder, T Style, Stainless Steel, 6 inch, Entry Door Hardware


One and done, no rust, no fuss.. its what I purchased.

[huskersteffy]

I installed the replacement Donna recommended about a year-and-a-half ago. So far so good. Thanks again!

[gbaglo]

My plastic holder is original - 12 years old.
But, this thread has me paying more attention each time I use it to hold the door back in a wind.

[CharlesPou]

I have 2018 Escape 21 with friction door, didn't come with door latch. works well, but if really windy door will close. I just ordered stainless steel door catch with spring return for the arm. I plan to mount it horizontal like was mounted on my Casita. I noticed others are mounting theirs vertical on Escapes, wondering if one way is better than another? Casita uses aluminum pop rivets to mount theirs, or that's the way my 2004 Casita came. I can't remember why, but I replaced the oem door catch on it, and was pretty easy to drill out the alum pop rivets, and reinstall the new one with alum pop rivets. I recommend getting one with the spring return for the arm. the oem didn't have that feature, and I recall liking new one better, just seemed easier to hold the door to the trailer body with the spring holding the arm in place. cheers

[CharlesPou]

received my stainless steel door catch, and got it mounted. I tried to mount vertical, but didn't appear to work well because of the angle. I also tried to mount it at the bottom of the door, but that wasn't a good fit either. the steel is very rigid, and has to fit together just so to work properly. I spent a lot of time getting it positioned, verifying it would work well, before drilling holes into the door, and side of my trailer.

also, I found the pop rivets to be confusing. some are described as length of the end before it's expanded. other's don't show the length, but list grip range the rivet is intended for. I went with 1/8" to 1/4" grip range and worked well, but I did have to pull it 2x's to get it to pop.

the door catch I ordered was supposed to have the return spring, but the one I received didn't have it, but it looked good, so I used it.

[Rossue]

Would rather the plastic door catch be the weak link and snap vs. an accidental shove into the door on a steel catch and the door getting cracked.

Mine held up too after 5 years; the detailer snapped it. Next time will tape it upwards.