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Old 08-13-2016, 07:54 PM   #1
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Plumbing access

In looking at the threads it appears that there are no diagrams of either electric wiring or plumbing lines. My question is this - some of the lines run along the drivers side of the trailer. The outside water hookup is behind the frig. Has anyone found a way to access these area's. My concern is I have already had 2 plumbing failures, valve broke and a line just split. If that happens in an area in back how do I get at it, especially if it is at the water hookup.
I have already pulled the bottom off the cabinet next to the frig, It is glued on. I replaced it with a piece of plywood and glued the thin veneer piece to that and put it back together with screws, so I have access. But access to the water connection area?? any thoughts?
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:36 PM   #2
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In our 17B - the outside water hookup is in the same under-bed area as the water pump and water heater. I would think on a 21 it would be under the rear driver side dinette seat?

Also on our 17 where water pipes or electrical wires are relatively inaccessible, there are no connections, just straight pipes or continuous wires. Are there actual connections on the 21 of either of water or electrical that are inaccessible? I would think that that would be against code?
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:53 PM   #3
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The hot water heater and pump are under the bed and accessible (accessible is relative) my concern is the connection to the outside water input is behind the frig. So far I have had the toilet valve go and a hi pressure hose split. They may be straight lines behind the cabinets and frig but if one of them splits I got to get at the ends, and one end it behind the frig.
Since we are on the subject do you have any idea what the clear plastic line on the pump goes to? It comes from, or goes to, that area I am talking about and there are no plumbing diagrams showing what goes where Thanks
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:59 PM   #4
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I'm surprised the water inlet is that far forward on the 21. On our 17 the clear tube is the pipe from the fresh water tank to the pump.
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Old 08-13-2016, 09:54 PM   #5
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Thanks at least I don't have to worry about that!
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Old 08-13-2016, 10:15 PM   #6
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I would think that that would be against code?
Check out this:
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f3...work-5834.html

My posts start at #11 but it's good to read all in context. Trailers have no enforced mandatory codes because they have been thought of as rolling tents from the good old days. It is a controversial subject and you can read about it on-line.

Escape trailers have a stamp of approval from an industry group, you can read up on that too . I don't want to open that can of worms. ETI plays by the rules and can affix the stamp on their trailers.
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Old 08-13-2016, 10:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjp447 View Post
But access to the water connection area?? any thoughts?
If you look at the left hand side of the first picture below, you will see a blue and white corrugated hose. That goes from the water fill connection to the water tank. Just behind it running along the floor of the cabinets is a PEX water line going to the water heater. The second picture shows the rest of the water line routing to the water heater. The third picture shows all the plumbing covered up with panels.

Is this what your looking for?
Attached Thumbnails
DSC00868.jpg   IMG_0493.JPG   DSC01001.jpg  
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Old 08-14-2016, 08:22 AM   #8
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If you have had Pex that splits and a toilet valve that's gone bad, I just have to ask... do you always use a water pressure regulator when hooked up to a water bib? I mean a good one, not those cheap plastic things. Spending <$15 can help prevent a lot of headaches.


I'm camping next month at a park that warns trailer owners, the water pressure is over 90lbs coming out of the bib. Last year I hooked up (with a water pressure regulator) and the connected water hose split. The water hose was just a cheapie. This year a better hose and a better regulator!
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Old 08-14-2016, 08:45 AM   #9
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Yes, a water pressure regulator is the EMS equivalent for water, assuming taste is good.
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Old 08-14-2016, 10:03 AM   #10
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I always use a regulator. they are metal and I keep a spare. Plus I check the pressure with a water gauge. Sometimes things just break. When my toilet valve went Reece asked if I winterize, I don't. I live in Georgia and we use the camper year round. I had been out in cold weather, it got down below 30 at night a couple of times , the month before with no issues.
My Casita was never winterized for the same reason, we use it, with never a problem. When I bought the replacement valve the guy at Tri Way camper said they sell them like crazy, He said "they just break" told me to always carry a spare. So I carry a 1/2 male screw in plug. If it breaks again, I will just unscrew the input line, put the plug in and keep a gallon jug of water in the John till we get home. Whats the saying "Stuff happens"!
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Old 08-14-2016, 10:06 AM   #11
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By the way if you could include some head on pictures of the cabinet and refrig area, below the frig. Before it is enclosed that would help. The pictures attached did help - thanks
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Old 08-14-2016, 11:21 AM   #12
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By the way if you could include some head on pictures of the cabinet and refrig area, below the frig. Before it is enclosed that would help. The pictures attached did help - thanks
The pictures are from this thread, where people post the pictures sent to them by the factory....http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f1...sics-3244.html and this one http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f1...yond-8031.html
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Old 08-14-2016, 12:46 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by bjp447 View Post
In looking at the threads it appears that there are no diagrams of either electric wiring or plumbing lines.
it would be nice to have but after this camper researched trailers to buy, it seems with the exception of a handful of trailer mfgs you probably will not get anything that might be considered professional technical documentation..looking at it from the mfgs viewpoint , most consumers probably would not understand and/or read it anyway...as in VHS clock still flashing!
Fortunately trailers ain't too complicated, but if possible it would also be nice if they were manufactured/designed in such a way as to be serviced somewhat easily. Hopefully trailers will not adopt the "hidden fastener" concept of autos.
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Old 08-14-2016, 02:32 PM   #14
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I always use a regulator. they are metal and I keep a spare. Plus I check the pressure with a water gauge.
You can combine the two (regulator and pressure gauge). Mine has a gauge so I know that it's working, and is adjustable so it does what I want.
Valterra adjustable water pressure regulator A01-1117VP
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Old 08-14-2016, 03:44 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
The pictures are from this thread, where people post the pictures sent to them by the factory....http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f1...sics-3244.html and this one http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f1...yond-8031.html
Thanks for answering! That is exactly where I got the pics. The ones posted were the best I could find to depict how the water lines were run in the pre 2017 21'. I didn't see any that were a frontal view of the bottom cabinets without the panels. Unless someone is in Chillwack while a trailer is being built, these are the best we can do.
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Old 08-14-2016, 03:47 PM   #16
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Thanks for answering! That is exactly where I got the pics. The ones posted were the best I could find to depict how the water lines were run in the pre 2017 21'. I didn't see any that were a frontal view of the bottom cabinets without the panels. Unless someone is in Chillwack while a trailer is being built, these are the best we can do.
Here is another thread....http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f2...otos-7889.html
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Old 08-14-2016, 05:09 PM   #17
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For those reading this who are thinking about buying an Escape, boats campers whatever things just break. The Escape is great and we are always impressed with it, the roominess and quality. You could spend more on a camper but you can't buy a better 21 footer than the Escape. Nor could you find a quicker group to help if you have an issue.
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