propane fridge igniter - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 05-28-2016, 05:46 PM   #1
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propane fridge igniter

I'm having trouble with my fridge running on propane. I've cleaned the burner and it will light, the burner flames are blue, but the igniter tip causes a yellow flame...is this normal? It looks like 3/16 spacing. If I increase the gap, then it won't light. Any thoughts?
thanks!
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Old 05-28-2016, 06:01 PM   #2
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The correct color is blue once the igniter goes off, is the flame blue? If so then it sounds normal....see here https://www.bing.com/images/search?q...do0&ajaxhist=0

on edit, make sure everything is clean and clear around the burner, no bugs or cobwebs....
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Old 06-03-2016, 01:55 PM   #3
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the flame is blue....sometimes it ignites, other times not, but when it does, the flame is blue. I was worried the igniter was not suppose to flame after the burners were lit. any thoughts why it doesn't consistently light?
thanks....
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Old 06-03-2016, 04:19 PM   #4
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Is this the situation?

Igniter lights flame, igniter stops, flame goes out? Or does the flame continue for a short while and then go out? It might be that the thermocouple is at the end of its' life. It's not sensing the heat from the flame and turning off. If that's the situation it's an inexpensive replacement.

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Old 06-03-2016, 04:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
It might be that the thermocouple is at the end of its' life. It's not sensing the heat from the flame and turning off.
Does this system use a thermocouple? Typically Direct Spark Ignition (DSI) appliances use the spark electrode as a flame monitor, checking for conductivity due to the flame; the electrode is just a plain bit of stiff wire.
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Old 06-03-2016, 05:43 PM   #6
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I'm so used to replacing thermocouples that I hadn't thought of that.

Could a buildup of deposits on the wire cause a change in its's ability to sense the flame?

Ron
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Old 06-03-2016, 06:24 PM   #7
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It might actually have a thermocouple - I'm just flagging something to check. If the electrode is used as a sensor, it does make sense to me that deposits on it would interfere with the sensing function.
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:01 PM   #8
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It does have a thermocoupler, located above the igniter. This spring, when running on propane, the fridge could barely stay cold, low 50s. When I tried to ignite last week, it wouldn't light, so I researched and used 20#s air compressor to blow out burner and chimney and it ignited.....but when I tried again the next day, it wouldn't light. Tried blowing out again with a can of air (tired of hauling out compressor) and I think the igniter got moved closer to burner, then it lit, but I worried about the igniter tip burning a yellow flame. Now it won't light again. sounds like the igniter is supposed to burn for awhile. Perhaps it needs a better cleaning, but I don't see how to remove the burner assembly, I've only removed the cover plate. There isn't much rust at all, but it is a 2006. maybe I should take it somewhere to have the pressure checked?
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Old 06-03-2016, 10:43 PM   #9
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I removed mine a couple of weeks ago and cleaned it. After taking off the cover plate there's only a couple of other screws to remove and then use wrenches, two, one to keep the tube from twisting and the other to undo the jet. The gas supply tube is quite flexible and you can pull it out a bit to make assembly easier. The orifice comes apart for cleaning and you can visually verify that's it's clean.

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Old 06-22-2016, 02:41 PM   #10
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Update on my fridge problem...I soaked the burner oriface, then I read where someone else had success with poor performance by installing a new regulator on propane tank, so I did that. I still couldn't get it to light, I could hear the igniter clicking. Finally, I readjusted the igniter, putting it closer to the burners and now it's working great! The regulator solved the initial problem of poor performance and the adjustment corrected the igniter that repositioned during cleaning. Thanks for everyone's suggestions! Happy to save $hundreds, time and travel for repairs.
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