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05-28-2016, 04:46 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: grand rapids, Minnesota
Trailer: 2006 17B
Posts: 72
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propane fridge igniter
I'm having trouble with my fridge running on propane. I've cleaned the burner and it will light, the burner flames are blue, but the igniter tip causes a yellow flame...is this normal? It looks like 3/16 spacing. If I increase the gap, then it won't light. Any thoughts?
thanks!
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05-28-2016, 05:01 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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The correct color is blue once the igniter goes off, is the flame blue? If so then it sounds normal....see here https://www.bing.com/images/search?q...do0&ajaxhist=0
on edit, make sure everything is clean and clear around the burner, no bugs or cobwebs....
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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06-03-2016, 12:55 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: grand rapids, Minnesota
Trailer: 2006 17B
Posts: 72
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the flame is blue....sometimes it ignites, other times not, but when it does, the flame is blue. I was worried the igniter was not suppose to flame after the burners were lit. any thoughts why it doesn't consistently light?
thanks....
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06-03-2016, 03:19 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
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Is this the situation?
Igniter lights flame, igniter stops, flame goes out? Or does the flame continue for a short while and then go out? It might be that the thermocouple is at the end of its' life. It's not sensing the heat from the flame and turning off. If that's the situation it's an inexpensive replacement.
Ron
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06-03-2016, 03:36 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
It might be that the thermocouple is at the end of its' life. It's not sensing the heat from the flame and turning off.
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Does this system use a thermocouple? Typically Direct Spark Ignition (DSI) appliances use the spark electrode as a flame monitor, checking for conductivity due to the flame; the electrode is just a plain bit of stiff wire.
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06-03-2016, 04:43 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
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I'm so used to replacing thermocouples that I hadn't thought of that.
Could a buildup of deposits on the wire cause a change in its's ability to sense the flame?
Ron
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06-03-2016, 05:24 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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It might actually have a thermocouple - I'm just flagging something to check. If the electrode is used as a sensor, it does make sense to me that deposits on it would interfere with the sensing function.
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06-03-2016, 07:01 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: grand rapids, Minnesota
Trailer: 2006 17B
Posts: 72
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It does have a thermocoupler, located above the igniter. This spring, when running on propane, the fridge could barely stay cold, low 50s. When I tried to ignite last week, it wouldn't light, so I researched and used 20#s air compressor to blow out burner and chimney and it ignited.....but when I tried again the next day, it wouldn't light. Tried blowing out again with a can of air (tired of hauling out compressor) and I think the igniter got moved closer to burner, then it lit, but I worried about the igniter tip burning a yellow flame. Now it won't light again. sounds like the igniter is supposed to burn for awhile. Perhaps it needs a better cleaning, but I don't see how to remove the burner assembly, I've only removed the cover plate. There isn't much rust at all, but it is a 2006. maybe I should take it somewhere to have the pressure checked?
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06-03-2016, 09:43 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
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I removed mine a couple of weeks ago and cleaned it. After taking off the cover plate there's only a couple of other screws to remove and then use wrenches, two, one to keep the tube from twisting and the other to undo the jet. The gas supply tube is quite flexible and you can pull it out a bit to make assembly easier. The orifice comes apart for cleaning and you can visually verify that's it's clean.
Ron
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06-22-2016, 01:41 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: grand rapids, Minnesota
Trailer: 2006 17B
Posts: 72
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Update on my fridge problem...I soaked the burner oriface, then I read where someone else had success with poor performance by installing a new regulator on propane tank, so I did that. I still couldn't get it to light, I could hear the igniter clicking. Finally, I readjusted the igniter, putting it closer to the burners and now it's working great! The regulator solved the initial problem of poor performance and the adjustment corrected the igniter that repositioned during cleaning. Thanks for everyone's suggestions! Happy to save $hundreds, time and travel for repairs.
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04-05-2020, 07:31 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: n/a, Texas
Trailer: Escape
Posts: 720
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The fridge propane igniter quit clicking. I removed the igniter and found that there was no continuity between the tip of the wire and where the wire comes out of the ceramic tube. There was continuity to within 3/16” of the tip. So I polished the tip lightly with 1000 grit sandpaper and the igniter works again.
My question is whether this is a fix that will last, or does corrosion/cleaning damage the surface of the electrode? I don’t mind buying a spare except for the US$54 price tag.
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04-05-2020, 07:35 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Is this the first time you had to polish the igniter, perhaps it is something that needs to be done occasionally?
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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04-06-2020, 08:13 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: St. Thomas not BVI., Ontario
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0TA / 2016 Ram Eco Diesel 4X4
Posts: 8,035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viajante
The fridge propane igniter quit clicking. I removed the igniter and found that there was no continuity between the tip of the wire and where the wire comes out of the ceramic tube. There was continuity to within 3/16” of the tip. So I polished the tip lightly with 1000 grit sandpaper and the igniter works again.
My question is whether this is a fix that will last, or does corrosion/cleaning damage the surface of the electrode? I don’t mind buying a spare except for the US$54 price tag.
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Hi: Viajante... Our igniter wouldn't spark. My RV Tech found the wire had bared itself from the constant rubbing. He spliced a new shrink wrap piece on it... and Bob's your uncle!!! Puts the spark back into your trip!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
__________________
Quote Bugs Bunny..."Don't take life too seriously, none of us get out of it ALIVE"!!!
'16 Ram Eco D. 4X4 Laramie Longhorn CC & '14 Escape 5.0TA
St.Thomas (Not the Virgin Islands) Ontario
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06-12-2020, 10:44 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: BC, British Columbia
Trailer: 2013 5.0
Posts: 14
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Propane fridge igniter not clicking
Hello,
I am wondering if anyone has replaced the igniter and/or electrode in their fridge. The igniter in our RM8551 fridge has stopped clicking.
At first we had weak or intermittent clicking so we cleaned the electrode and checked the connections. It clicked more loudly a few times but now has stopped clicking totally.
We have power and propane working.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Nancy
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06-12-2020, 11:44 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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I don't have that fridge but it sounds like a relay. Might be internal to the control module.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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