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Old 03-10-2019, 03:11 PM   #1
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Pump Failed and Found This

Our water pump has apparently failed. Turn on the switch and turn on a faucet and nothing happens. Ok, no big deal. A replacement will be easy to install. But on examination I found a twisted and collapsed inlet hose. It is attached to the winterization valve with one of those copper pex crimps used in multiple places in the trailer. I have never worked with pex and have no idea how to remove the crimp. I plan on cutting the hose where it emerges from the woodwork and installing a straight connector with hose clamps. Can I just lever off the copper pex crimps with a flat blade screwdriver or do I need an expensive tool I will rarely use?
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Old 03-10-2019, 03:26 PM   #2
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I guess it is what you consider expensive. Here is a rotary tool at Harbour Freight since you are in the US.
That and the grinding discs should get the job done for $30.

Here is a link how to do it. http://youtu.be/qwrIawlT70A
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Old 03-10-2019, 04:19 PM   #3
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I have dealt with these type clamps before and they are tough and not meant to be easily removed. You will end up destroying the underlying fitting if you try to just pry it off.

The only solution I know of is.to cut the band in some fashion, being careful not to cut too deeply and damage the fitting. I have used a hacksaw in other situations, but I doubt you will have room to use it here.

I believe the prior post suggestion of using a Dremmel type grinder might be your best bet.

One other word of caution, when you are finished be sure to repeatedly check your repair for leakage. I have seen cases where this type repair can leak unnoticed for long periods of time and eventually cause massive damage from floor rot.
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Old 03-10-2019, 05:05 PM   #4
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I've cut them off using either just a hacksaw blade or a blade with a handle.

It seems to be easier to make the cut at a diagonal. That way only one point of the blade is in contact and it's much easier to monitor the depth of the cut. That's not as important if you're not reusing the hose.

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Old 03-10-2019, 05:19 PM   #5
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Thanks for the tips. After I cut the hose I'll be able to lift the winterizing valve along with the pex crimp out of the bench seat and have plenty of room to work with. I think I'll try a hacksaw blade first.
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Old 03-10-2019, 06:03 PM   #6
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You could just cut the hose in the middle of the visible run, re-connect it with the straight connector (for hose, not PEX) and hose clamps, and leave the crimped connections alone. The hose is probably still fine, and just needs to be unkinked.
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Old 03-10-2019, 06:31 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
You could just cut the hose in the middle of the visible run, re-connect it with the straight connector (for hose, not PEX) and hose clamps, and leave the crimped connections alone. The hose is probably still fine, and just needs to be unkinked.
Excellent idea, Brian. I will do that.
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Old 03-10-2019, 07:43 PM   #8
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Can the hose be rotated at the crimp fitting location? If so you may be able to get the kink out without cutting or disconnecting anything.
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Old 03-10-2019, 08:07 PM   #9
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Can the hose be rotated at the crimp fitting location? If so you may be able to get the kink out without cutting or disconnecting anything.
Nope, tight as a drum. Looks like the installer attached the hose to the valve first and then had to turn the valve to attach it to the pump and that's what kinked the hose.
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Old 03-10-2019, 10:02 PM   #10
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You could even use an elbow (45-degree?) instead of a straight coupler, if that would make the paths for each section of hose straighter.
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Old 03-10-2019, 10:41 PM   #11
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You could even use an elbow (45-degree?) instead of a straight coupler, if that would make the paths for each section of hose straighter.
I thought about a 45 too but all I'm able to find online so far are straights and 90s barb to barb.
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Old 03-11-2019, 12:43 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by stephen99 View Post
Our water pump has apparently failed. Turn on the switch and turn on a faucet and nothing happens. Ok, no big deal. A replacement will be easy to install. But on examination I found a twisted and collapsed inlet hose. It is attached to the winterization valve with one of those copper pex crimps used in multiple places in the trailer. I have never worked with pex and have no idea how to remove the crimp. I plan on cutting the hose where it emerges from the woodwork and installing a straight connector with hose clamps. Can I just lever off the copper pex crimps with a flat blade screwdriver or do I need an expensive tool I will rarely use?
That tubing goes into the area behind the propane detector cubicle. Look at the pic below - that gives you an idea of what the tubing run looks like on the other side of the partition. If you got in there and twisted the tubing where it goes through the foam, it should straighten out.
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Old 03-11-2019, 10:06 AM   #13
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That tubing goes into the area behind the propane detector cubicle. Look at the pic below - that gives you an idea of what the tubing run looks like on the other side of the partition. If you got in there and twisted the tubing where it goes through the foam, it should straighten out.
The kink is pretty much set in place after being that way for 2 years and needs to be forced to open up like with a connector shoved into it so I don't think twisting in another section will help. Besides, how the heck did you get into that area behind the propane detector?

I got an email from the forum that you posted a response to the thread and it contained a link to a Shark Bite 45 connector but I don't see that response in the thread. I looked at the link and the 45 looks good to me. Did you delete that response for some reason?
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Old 03-11-2019, 12:00 PM   #14
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The kink is pretty much set in place after being that way for 2 years and needs to be forced to open up like with a connector shoved into it so I don't think twisting in another section will help.
Put some heat from a heat gun or hair dryer on it. It'll soon forget that it's been in that position for a while. It'll soften right up and make inserting a connector easy.

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Old 03-11-2019, 12:33 PM   #15
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Put some heat from a heat gun or hair dryer on it. It'll soon forget that it's been in that position for a while. It'll soften right up and make inserting a connector easy.

Ron
Cool, thanks.
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Old 03-11-2019, 01:22 PM   #16
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As others have suggested, cutting the fitting is the best way to remove it. I have used Pex quit a bit and use an oscillating multi-tool with a metal blade for the removal task. I find that a pair of vice grips gently but firmly holding the fitting while cutting makes control easier.

Good luck!
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Old 03-11-2019, 04:26 PM   #17
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I got an email from the forum that you posted a response to the thread and it contained a link to a Shark Bite 45 connector but I don't see that response in the thread. I looked at the link and the 45 looks good to me. Did you delete that response for some reason?
A Sharkbite 45° hose connector? Sharkbite fitting generally seal to the outside of the tube with an O-ring, and use a clip to keep the hose from sliding off - this is not suitable for hose, just harder tubing.
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Old 03-11-2019, 05:06 PM   #18
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A Sharkbite 45° hose connector? Sharkbite fitting generally seal to the outside of the tube with an O-ring, and use a clip to keep the hose from sliding off - this is not suitable for hose, just harder tubing.
The Sharkbite brand does have metal and poly crimp couplings, but I don’t see a 45.
www.sharkbite.com/products/brass-crimp-coupling
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Old 03-11-2019, 06:33 PM   #19
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Thanks. Sharkbite is no longer under consideration.
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Old 03-11-2019, 08:37 PM   #20
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The Sharkbite brand does have metal and poly crimp couplings, but I don’t see a 45.
www.sharkbite.com/products/brass-crimp-coupling
Ah, thanks - those are barbed fittings (instead of the O-ring & gripper design for which the product line is named), but they are PEX barbs, not hose barbs. I realize that some people use PEX barbs with hose, and I'm sure it works fine in this case (which is just low-pressure suction), but it's not the right design.
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