Pump Not Turning Completely Off

[NuthatchBC]

When we use the pump in our 19, it continues to run when the faucet is turned off. It runs at slower speed but it won't shut off. Anyone else had this problem? I'm at a loss as to how to troubleshoot it.

Doug

[Jubal]

Check for air in the water supply system. Open each faucet and the toilet flush for a minute or so to purge and detect air in the system. Be sure you have an adequate amount of water in your fresh water tank.

[Dave]

The pressure switch may not be working and is stuck on resulting in the pump staying on and bypassing even when when there is no flow.

[fudge_brownie]

I just had this exact problem. It can be one of three things: air in the water system, a failed or failing pump or a leak in a faucet or other part of the water system. Most likely it is air in the system and can occur when you run low on the water supply or just after coming out of winterization. It can also occur when you switch from using city water to your water tank.

Here is the fix that worked for me, fill the water tank until it overflows at the fill spout. Water should pour out of the air port at the fill spout. Now turn on all faucets and the toilet water supply and continue running until the spurting stops. Be sure you are running all faucets: hot and cold, inside and outside. This may take several minutes of running. Once the spurting stops refill your water supply and test, the pump should now stop running.

[NuthatchBC]

The first time we had this problem fudge brownie's solution worked. However, the problem has returned. The fix hasn't worked this time. Could I have a bad pump?

Doug

[captmath]

My low point drain cap was loose.

Dick

[fudge_brownie]

Confirm that there is water in your freshwater tank by doing a visual inspection.

Did one of the winterization valves that isolate the hot water heater get bumped or turned partly?

Are you getting pressure? A good test is to run the shower and see if enough water comes out to take a shower.

Do the purge I recommended above one more time, let the water run for several minutes. Be sure you are opening every valve, such as an outside shower.

[BRietkerk]

Is the city water connection properly plugged? If not air may come in and drop the pressure enough to cause the pump to run on.

[NuthatchBC]

I just checked the city water fill and it's tight. Checked fittings on all faucets and toilet. No leaks and all tight. Can't run the pump too long 'cause we're currently off grid. Also, fresh water tank is full. Can't think of anything else to check.

Doug

[jamman]

Is it running softly - much quieter than usual. If so it is almost always air in lines. Try this - open only 1 HOT water tap and let run for 1-2 minutes. You can catch the water in a pot or jug and add it back to the fresh water tank (or use it for something) if you want to.

[cpaharley2008]

yes, open the lines until water only is running and then try to repressurize.

[NuthatchBC]

Today I checked the pump while it was running and noticed air bubbles escaping from some sort of apparatus where it is screwed to the bottom of the pump. I tightened all three screws and it seemed to fix the issue for a while. However, after several runs of the pump, it's not stopping when the faucets are turned off. We are home now so I'll do the whole purge thing again and see if that helps.

What I don't understand is that we have been doing the same thing since the trailer was new (2012) i.e. fill the fresh water tank, turn the pump on, open one of the faucets, usually the kitchen one, and wait 'til the spurting stops, turn off the faucet and the pump stops. We have never "purged" to get the pump to work. What could have changed in the last three weeks? Everything is starting to point to a bad pump.

Doug

[cpaharley2008]

I agree….

[Ron in BC]

I'm a little suspicious of the area that had the air bubbles. Before I gave up on the pump I'd brush the connections and joints in the area with a soapy solution and see if that pinpoints anything. Usually soap solutions area used to detect gas leaks but it should work in this case especially if there is air in the system.

Good luck, these intermittent problems are often more irritating to solve than an outright failure.

Ron

[NuthatchBC]

Now that we're home, I'm able to do some more in-depth checking on the pump issue. I plugged into shore power and did the "open all faucets" thing again. I did get a minor air spurt out of the kitchen sink but I ran the faucets for about two minutes and didn't get any more. When I turned off all the faucets, the pump stopped almost instantly.

I then unplugged from shore power and opened and closed the cold kitchen faucet. The pump stopped right away. I did this two more times and on the third time, the pump continued to run. I checked the battery voltage and it showed 13.2 VDC. I plugged into shore power again and re-checked the voltage - 13.65 VDC. I did this test three more times and when the voltage dropped below 13.2, the pump continues to run.

I called the Shur-flo company and their tech said that pump should shut off until the voltage drops below 12 VDC. Anyone ever heard of a pressure switch failing? The Shur-flo people have not. So, I'm at a loss as to where to go from here.

Doug

[Dave]

Like I said, it sounds like the pressure switch is not working. I would take it apart and see if the switch is fouled up.

[TAfraser]

Before pulling the pump for disassemble, I'd try adjusting it out. There are two adjustments located on the front of the pump. One is for the by-pass pressure, and one is for the turn-off pressure. My problem was that the pump sounded like an air gun you'd use to take your tires off with. The lights would flicker and the water flow would sputter. Adjusting the pressure turn-off corrected my problem until I turned off the water and the pump kept running. I had to back off on my adjustment just a little so the pump would turn itself off with no water flow. If the adjustments for pressure turn-off and bypass are overlapped, the pump will keep running. The turn-off is the one farthest out from the pump body, very close to the electrical wires, and you will use a #2 allen wrench. Just a thought
Tom

[Donna D.]

Color matters! Is the pump black and green? If so, contact ETI. I understand ETI received a bad batch of Shurflo pumps... and they were black and green. The replacements from Shurflo are a different color.

[dave macrae]

The black and green pump
Is a Artis pump that Eti was using in 2012 mine failed and I was told
Most of them did , I replaced mine back in July when it leaked with a Shurflow direct replacement .

[santacruzer]

My Artis pump from 2012 failed last summer also, while on vacation in Oregon. Bought a Shurflo from the local RV shop, and ETI paid for it under warranty.