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Old 08-07-2017, 10:52 AM   #1
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Rear Camera No Longer Working

The rear camera has quit working. Initial troubleshooting from ETI had me determine the fuse is OK and that the camera's "ON" light is not on. The manufacturer suggested I look into the camera close up to see if there were any red pixel activity and there is none.

The camera is on the same circuit as the trailer running lights and they are working fine with the truck running, in drive, park, reverse with parking lights on and then headlights as well. Nothing.

As I mentioned, the fuse is OK and ETI would now like me to determine if there is current running through the circuit.

Except for the photo of the fuse all others were sent to me by ETI.

How can I easily do this?
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Old 08-07-2017, 11:04 AM   #2
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Not so much current, but you can check for 12 volts with a multimeter. If there is room, you can check it at the blue crimp connectors on the last picture. If not go from the trailer side of the fuse holder and the black lead to ground where convenient. If you know how to use a meter.
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Old 08-07-2017, 11:28 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Not so much current, but you can check for 12 volts with a multimeter. If there is room, you can check it at the blue crimp connectors on the last picture. If not go from the trailer side of the fuse holder and the black lead to ground where convenient. If you know how to use a meter.
Thank you. JP
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Old 08-07-2017, 11:50 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Not so much current, but you can check for 12 volts with a multimeter. If there is room, you can check it at the blue crimp connectors on the last picture. If not go from the trailer side of the fuse holder and the black lead to ground where convenient. If you know how to use a meter.
Yup, and another reason why a multimeter is so handy to have for trailer use.

And give the connectors a bit of a tug and wiggle (tech term ) sometimes there can be a poor connection there.

Ron
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Old 08-07-2017, 01:47 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Yup, and another reason why a multimeter is so handy to have for trailer use.

And give the connectors a bit of a tug and wiggle (tech term ) sometimes there can be a poor connection there.

Ron
Oh I have been doing tugging and wiggling! No luck and those wires were quite snug in the trailer's insulation. I shook the camera itself and could hear nothing rattling in there, I was tempted to actually look inside but reconsidered because there is sticker seal. A neighbourhood electrician suggested poking the multimeter's probe into the wires and then covering them (wires)with a type of non-conducting electrical grease once done. I need another pair of hands for that so it will have to wait. Camping does not depend on the camera! Leaving next Tuesday for a week by the St.Lawrence and fellow Escapee Jim will be right next door and he has a few ideas for the camera challenge.
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Old 08-07-2017, 02:22 PM   #6
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Did you check that there is 12V coming to the inside terminal that contacts the fuse? If you can't access the negative terminal you can use any other item that is in contact with the frame ground.

Ron
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Old 08-07-2017, 02:31 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Did you check that there is 12V coming to the inside terminal that contacts the fuse? If you can't access the negative terminal you can use any other item that is in contact with the frame ground.

Ron
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