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Old 12-17-2012, 06:04 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
did you ever measure your net loss while hooked up to tug
While towing, I can easily supply the refrig and change my batteries. I always got to my next site with fully charged batteries, just not very cold food.

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I'm watching this situation in my 17B as well. On a pop-up I once owned I added a 12v computer fan in the outer compartment to help dissipate heat, and it seemed to work well. In that instance I had a separate on/off switch, since I only needed it when the weather was particularly hot. Don't see how that kind of installation would work with the Escape, however, so I'm interested in the baffles Ben mentioned, and the 2 small fans you installed.
Bob
You can easily add an external fan; Dometic sells one as an accessory for their larger refigs. Some of this conversation was covered in another thread 2012 Modifications. Scroll down to #6 for a link to Dometic's instructions on baffles. I'll see if I can post a picture of my fans on the internal fins in the next few days.

Ben
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:20 PM   #72
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Ben,

Thanks, I'm printing the Dometic pdf as I write this. I missed seeing this earlier, thought I'd gone through the site pretty carefully.

Bob
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:24 PM   #73
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I see one installation mistake already, Dometic states in the pdf that the space above the refer should be blocked off from the rear to prevent hot air being trapped. In the 19', there is about 6" of open air space all the way to the rear, open. You can remove the interior top panel off the refer and look, if you see the wall then your is open. Mine is so the first thing I'll do is close off the space, maybe even cut an access panel and use that space, pretty big.
Then go from there.
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:40 AM   #74
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Here are the 2 fans that I installed in the refig

They are small fans which draws around 35mA per fan and I installed a switch in the trailer to control them.

Ben
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:04 PM   #75
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Problem Solved/Another One Spotted

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I see one installation mistake already, Dometic states in the pdf that the space above the refer should be blocked off from the rear to prevent hot air being trapped. In the 19', there is about 6" of open air space all the way to the rear, open. You can remove the interior top panel off the refer and look, if you see the wall then your is open. Mine is so the first thing I'll do is close off the space, maybe even cut an access panel and use that space, pretty big.
Then go from there.
After having problems getting the reefer temp down in 93 degree (F) weather last week-end, even when put on highest setting, I came home and checked out whether the back was properly blocked, as above. Nope, about a 2 inch gap above he reefer. Used some pipe insulation to seal off and all is now normal, even at the middle temp range. Outside temp was in the 70's when I tested it.

Went one better and thought I'd install a cooling fan behind the top louver as "back-up", for those days we venture into the 100+ degree realm. Bought a very quiet 3" computer fan from Radio Shack, and mocked up a plate to hang it from the angled board above the back cooling fins. I was all set to wire in a switch when I thought I'd test it out. While the fan is super-quiet on its own, when attached with a piece of aluminum to that very thin piece of what I surmise is Masonite, the effect is a sounding board with quite a noticeable rumble.

Looks like I'll need a different approach to mounting the fan. Has anyone put one directly on the louvered metal cover?
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:17 PM   #76
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It appears that most of us have a gap above the fridge. The Dometic manual states that a large gap should be blocked off to prevent heat build up and poor cooling performance. Any ideas as to why this isn't done? It seems that this would help the cooling more than raising the top vent as is now being done on all of the trailers.
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:52 PM   #77
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Did you just wedge the pipe insulation into that space? Any pictures would be helpful, thanx.
What model do you have? I just went out and inspected mine, I have the smaller 3.x cu/ft
3 way dometic-120/12v/gas. The upper cooling fins appear to be right at the opening that I mentioned, so perhaps I can install from inside and push it to the rear to these cooling fins?
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:31 PM   #78
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Yep, just wedged it in tight, but from the outside, not the inside. From the inside I might have pushed too far and into the cooling fins. It's set back from the edge about 1/2". I was also able to put a strip down one side of the reefer at the back, which I wouldn't have been able to do from inside. Once I took the louvered vent off it was obvious that would be the easier approach. I too have the smaller 12v/gas/120 model (RM2354). I'll try to take a photo tonight.

It sounds as if you have more of a gap than I do (6" v 2"), so you may need a really thick piece. I had only a short piece of what would have been perfect, so I had to double up on a smaller diameter piece of insulation, fitting one inside the other. I used the gray stuff, which has a pretty high density. I don't think it's going to shift with vehicle movement, but I'll be watching it. And I don't think it's close enough to the fins to be damaged by any heat.
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:14 PM   #79
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I saw the space on the side, the side towards the rear when I took off the lower vent. I assume you took off the upper vent which has something like 18 screws holding it on?
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:26 PM   #80
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Yeah, the upper vent is very well attached! It's that one on my 17 that gave me the access. I had also put screen meshing on the back side of the top vent, I removed the screen on the premise that it likely contributed to heat build up also. The Dometic brochures state that vents and access panels are to be installed without modification, perhaps I should have believed them. I was worried about insects, but it might not be the problem for me that it is for other parts of the country.
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