Refrigerator Replacement

[Nindy]

Thanks to all about the tip on the Amish cooling unit. I did read about that and unless something has changed, it is only on the bigger models. I suppose I could get rid of the microwave and remodel the kitchen for a bigger fridge.

I'll just take it in when I get home from the next trip and see what they say about fixing it. I have survived three years with this fridge and it's not that bad. Maybe try the cooling fans. I watched a video on that. And try the ARP control.

This trip next week will rely on the Yeti cooler and eating out after breakfast which won't be such a bad thing. The restaurants are sparse in the Ozarks but on the next hill over there's a neighbor with a food trailer that sells really good hamburgers to the waterfall visitors! And he sells ice too.

[Nindy]

Originally Posted by currinh

You should get a 12V compressor fridge, Danfoss. They work like a home refrigerator and, I understand, are much better at holding temps. Add a couple of solar panels and a corresponding battery bank, you're set to go.


Yes, really, please try thing. I really want to know how well it works.


Thanks.

Hugh, I've read a lot more about these now. Dometic makes one that should fit perfectly as it's almost exactly the same size as my current fridge. The compressor they use now is Waeco, no longer the Danfoss/Secop. I would just have to think about how much I might miss using propane for the fridge. Now that I have electricity at my southern MO property I am no longer boon docking there. I do have one solar panel and two 6V batteries but adding more might be wise if the current setup isn't enough.

This one gets great reviews:
https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/pro...-140s-_-136705

It's rated for tropical too and works in up to 109 F/43 C.

[fudge_brownie]

I can relate to refrigerator issues. A year ago my RMD 8555 stopped working on propane. After dropping $1,300 on repair we have had a good operating unit. Before the repairs I looked into replacing the entire unit. I could not come up with a better solution, mostly due to the door opening size. And the few options. Coupled with the installation cost and the cost of a new unit and the repair became a better alternative.

[cpaharley2008]

Paul,
Did you go with the Amish rebuilt unit?

[fudge_brownie]

No Amish unit, had to replace the main circuit board and when that did not work the whisker board also had to be replaced. The part prices were unbelievable.

I was not aware of the Amish rebuilds at that time. It appears the topic had some mention before last October but that was when it really was discussed at length.

[cpaharley2008]

So your problems were all electronic? Wow, it's a shame those circuit boards were so expensive..

[Jubal]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

No Amish unit, had to replace the main circuit board and when that did not work the whisker board also had to be replaced. The part prices were unbelievable.

I was not aware of the Amish rebuilds at that time. It appears the topic had some mention before last October but that was when it really was discussed at length.

What is the function of the whisker board ?

[wetzk]

Originally Posted by Jubal

What is the function of the whisker board ?

I wonder if he meant eyebrow board. Dinosaur electronics does carry replacement eyebrows and control boards for some Dometic and Norcold refrigerators.

I have one of their water heater control boards in mine. The original failed, bought a replacement myself as that was cheaper than multiple trips to the place that warrantied Suburban appliances. That failed so I bought the Dino board. Then Suburban responded to an email that they have an updated board and exchanged my failed Fenwal for the new one. I'm keeping it as a spare in case the Dino ever fails.
Looking at the Dino board compared to the Suburban part I'd say it never will.

[cpaharley2008]

Why do circuit boards fail? There is no moving parts, operates of 12v DC, I'm having trouble why they are so expensive and why they fail?

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Why do circuit boards fail? There is no moving parts, operates of 12v DC, I'm having trouble why they are so expensive and why they fail?

The quality of components differs over a wide range of reliability. I maintained theatrical dimmers that used the least expensive capacitors available. They dried up & died within 10 years. Replaced them with better quality (and, of course, more expensive) ones and they were still going strong when the theatre was rebuilt 40 years later.

Construction methods can also be a problem. One of the 120v - 12V RV converters had lots of failures of the filter capacitors (a fairly large component) because the only support was the wires. A bit of hot glue holding the body in place would have saved lots of replacements.

I once purchased some surplus capacitors that were manufactured for the Mercury Space program. Each was signed with the initials of the individuals that constructed & tested them. Somehow, I suspect that they could be on the high end or reliability!

[SFDavis50]

Another problem with failure is tin whiskers. Getting rid of lead solder in electrical components added major problems as lead will 'cold work' back to its original shape but the tin used in solder will create whiskers as it expands and contracts and they will cause shorts in the board and within the components themselves.

[wetzk]

Originally Posted by SFDavis50

Another problem with failure is tin whiskers. Getting rid of lead solder in electrical components added major problems as lead will 'cold work' back to its original shape but the tin used in solder will create whiskers as it expands and contracts and they will cause shorts in the board and within the components themselves.

And cheap electrolytic capacitors made with an incorrect electrolyte formula. That is the one I have been bit by more than the whiskers.

[fudge_brownie]

Originally Posted by wetzk

I wonder if he meant eyebrow board. Dinosaur electronics does carry replacement eyebrows and control boards for some Dometic and Norcold refrigerators.

Thank you, I stand corrected. The eyebrow board on the RMD contains the electronic controls. Is is the panel between the freezer and refrigerator that selects gas, electric or 12 volt and also controls the temperature. I do not think a refrigerator with a manual control will have one. I assume manual control would be a dial to turn for temperature and perhaps a button to push to ignite the gas.

Interesting to see what products Dinosaur Electronics has for the Dometic refrigerators. I saw nothing for any series above 7xxx. The RMD8555 is really an orphan in the US, not sure about the RM8551.

[wetzk]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

Thank you, I stand corrected. The eyebrow board on the RMD contains the electronic controls. Is is the panel between the freezer and refrigerator that selects gas, electric or 12 volt and also controls the temperature. I do not think a refrigerator with a manual control will have one. I assume manual control would be a dial to turn for temperature and perhaps a button to push to ignite the gas.

Interesting to see what products Dinosaur Electronics has for the Dometic refrigerators. I saw nothing for any series above 7xxx. The RMD8555 is really an orphan in the US, not sure about the RM8551.

They have the 2 boards for the RM2554 used in the 2017 19's.
Hopefully I will never need one but nice to know they are available.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I just emailed JC Refrigeration about our 5 cu. ft. RM2510. I’ll report back with what I find out.

I heard back from JR at JC Refrigeration and he confirmed that they do not make cooling units for the 5 cu. ft. and smaller refrigerators.

[currinh]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I heard back from JR at JC Refrigeration and he confirmed that they do not make cooling units for the 5 cu. ft. and smaller refrigerators.

RV Cooling Unit Warehouse indicates they have cooling units for the RM 2510. They are tied to JC Refrigeration but I don't recall how, maybe brothers? The cooling units may be manufactured by JC Refrig. and both are considered "Amish". I haven't contacted them to check availability, but it may be an option.


Thanks.

[yardsale]

Originally Posted by Nindy

Read about adding a fan last night. Did you do that and did it help?

Haven't yet.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by currinh

RV Cooling Unit Warehouse indicates they have cooling units for the RM 2510. They are tied to JC Refrigeration but I don't recall how, maybe brothers? The cooling units may be manufactured by JC Refrig. and both are considered "Amish". I haven't contacted them to check availability, but it may be an option.

Thanks Hugh. Good to know.

[Nindy]

Well, once I was at my destination last week, I decided to give the fridge one more try and it worked and kept working all week! I hadn't brought many groceries and enjoying eating out all week except for breakfast.

I still kept my trailer service appointment for tomorrow and that was a good thing. Of all the things to break, the little switch to turn the water heater on and off when using electricity is now stuck in the on position.

[wetzk]

Originally Posted by Nindy

Well, once I was at my destination last week, I decided to give the fridge one more try and it worked and kept working all week! I hadn't brought many groceries and enjoying eating out all week except for breakfast.

I still kept my trailer service appointment for tomorrow and that was a good thing. Of all the things to break, the little switch to turn the water heater on and off when using electricity is now stuck in the on position.

That little switch was part of the reason we did the mod on our trailer to move the 120v heater control inside. I originally added a separate 120v switch by the bed and spliced it into the system. Then saw a few on here were changing the tank monitor and controlling it with DC.

That was even nicer so I moved ours up to the tank monitor and replaced my original mod with a 120v/usb outlet. Now I leave the outside water switch on and use the inside easy to use switch on the panel with visual indication if the water heater is on.
Here is lots of info on the mod.

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f4...tml#post170983
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f3...tml#post226380
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...tml#post230056