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Old 07-22-2018, 10:45 PM   #61
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Right. We always have our Engel cooler for the frozen stuff. I removed the freezer door compartment to allow for a colder interior overall, but also because I had added a panel of corrugated plastic sheet that acts as an interior barrier when I just need to grab a LaBatts off the door shelves.

The computer fan is on a piece of scrap angle stock that is screwed through a wood block to the screw holes attaching the fins to the wall. My second Accurite remote sensor seems to be working better than the first one did. Like that blue light.
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Old 07-22-2018, 11:45 PM   #62
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So we now carry several compact freezer packs that if fridge performance is weak we rotate the freezer packs to the fridge.

Great idea!!! Going to try this.
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Old 07-23-2018, 12:50 AM   #63
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Wow, everything is so clean! Great shots, thanks, very helpful. And, I knew it:- no two Dometic fridge rear configurations are built alike. Must give more thought to adding a second switch for my 2 rear fans.
Your welcome a Myron . I remember on same time frame and refrigerator some got 2 fans and some like ours only one . Kind of like they didn't know what the heck they were doing . I feel a big improvement was insulating the cabinet . Even the top and closing up the bottom with the silver building tape . Everything I could to keep the heat from getting to refrigerator . Like I made a extreme cooler with thick walls .the fans inside refrigerators are also always important . All the common sense things like not stuffing refrigerator but ok in freezer . I remember your vinyl strips to keep cold in .just a lot of common sense things . After everything checking the gas and I think we will be good . Pat
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Old 07-23-2018, 12:51 AM   #64
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Hey Pat,
I think our model fridge is RMD8555.
Thanks for the pics on the fan setup.
You got the 6 cu then . Your welcome . Pat
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Old 07-23-2018, 12:58 AM   #65
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Forgot one of the neatest things on the series 8 refrigerators is you can remove the freezer which if not needed we have done . It just unclips . Pat
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Old 07-23-2018, 01:25 AM   #66
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My Accurite thermometer probes only have wild swings when placed inside the running fridge, did yours do it all the time?
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Old 07-23-2018, 05:48 AM   #67
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I use the average system, between my Accuwrong sensors in both and the old style mercury thermometer in the refer section and old style metal coil in the freezer I adjust accordingly.
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Old 07-23-2018, 06:30 AM   #68
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We find the Accuride to work quite well, having checked the accuracy against a regular type thermometer. We have seen the most fluctuations while driving.

For the most part we were at 2°/-15°C in the fridge/freezer this past weekend. Can't get it much better.
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Old 07-23-2018, 08:14 AM   #69
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We find the Accuride to work quite well, having checked the accuracy against a regular type thermometer. We have seen the most fluctuations while driving.

For the most part we were at 2°/-15°C in the fridge/freezer this past weekend. Can't get it much better.
Hi: Jim Bennett... Accuride or accurite it doesn't seem to matter this summer. Our fridge just doesn't get cold enough for my beer taste, and can't recover over night either!!! Alf
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Old 07-23-2018, 08:41 AM   #70
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We find the Accuride to work quite well, having checked the accuracy against a regular type thermometer. We have seen the most fluctuations while driving.

For the most part we were at 2°/-15°C in the fridge/freezer this past weekend. Can't get it much better.

Ditto, to blame the thermometer is to shoot the messenger.
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:06 AM   #71
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I do not think of the Accurite as a thermometer, but an electronic gadget that is supposed to display the correct temperature. I think that a thermometer is non electric but operates off known physics of heat expands and cooling retracts, as with a mercury thermometer. The electronic model works as a thermistor with a display and we all know that thermistors do not always work in our refrigerators. Maybe I'm just "old school" or just old......
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Old 07-24-2018, 08:56 AM   #72
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Do yourself a favor and put a manometer on the fridge test port. Read your manual and adjust to get around 12” w.c. with no other loads. When they factory calibrate a regulator they don’t know the resistance of the system piping it is going on. You want the correct pressure at the fridge burner. I believe this is what made the biggest difference for us.
I just want to reiterate this for anyone with a fridge that may not be performing at its best. Test the propane pressure at the fridge test port with a manometer or have a shop do it if you are not comfortable. After our new regulator and proper adjustment the fridge has been operating much better. Manometers can be made, but thankfully I was able to borrow this one because buying it for very limited use would be somewhat prohibitive.

www.amazon.com/UEi-Test-Instruments-EM152-Differential/dp/B01J553RD2
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:42 AM   #73
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Can I borrow it next?
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:49 AM   #74
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Can I borrow it next?
Yes, if you promise to mail it back!
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Old 07-27-2018, 12:50 PM   #75
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Refrigerator Test

What Dave says is absolutely true with regards to setting the regulator to 11.00”WC while the trailer is operating at approximately 50% of it maximum btu capacity. I connected at the fridge gas port and ran the furnace then shut down the furnace and lit both stove burners, no discernible difference was noticed in pressure readings.
Here are the results that I encountered when checking/calibrating my gas pressure.
When I first checked my pressure it was at 9.73”WC after adjusting the regulator I was able to achieve 11.00”WC. Fridge seems to preform better.
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Old 07-27-2018, 12:54 PM   #76
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Fridge seems to preform better.
The water for your coffee with boil quicker too. Just don't go polluting it with any of that Irish Cream stuff now.
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Old 07-27-2018, 12:56 PM   #77
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The water for your coffee with boil quicker too. Just don't go polluting it with any of that Irish Cream stuff now.

Jim is it okay if its rum based[emoji6].

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Old 07-27-2018, 01:03 PM   #78
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Jim is it okay if its rum based[emoji6].
Yes, but only on the side. [emoji41]
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Old 07-30-2018, 08:37 AM   #79
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What Dave says is absolutely true with regards to setting the regulator to 11.00”WC while the trailer is operating at approximately 50% of it maximum btu capacity. I connected at the fridge gas port and ran the furnace then shut down the furnace and lit both stove burners, no discernible difference was noticed in pressure readings.
Here are the results that I encountered when checking/calibrating my gas pressure.
When I first checked my pressure it was at 9.73”WC after adjusting the regulator I was able to achieve 11.00”WC. Fridge seems to preform better.
Attachment 33013Attachment 33014

Our fridge performed flawlessly this weekend in some pretty good heat. Temperature was always in the 30's. I needed to turn it down at night to "2" or everything would have been frozen. Even during the hottest part of the day with the trailer in full sun I didn't turn it up past "4".
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Old 08-04-2018, 11:36 PM   #80
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Refrigerator test

Stayed at a lake for a week .Temps in the 100's . 106 then 104-103 . Midday sun on refrigerator side all day . Found 120 worked the best to keeping temps in refrigerator instead of gas . Fan inside on . Wired a little computer waterproof fan inside with a switch too. Both fans outside behind refrigerator and in the chase behind on . In my mods shows all the insulation I added to cabinet before . Cabinet is sealed tight with insulation. Fans running 24 hrs a day . Setting on 4 . Thermistor just hanging loose inside refrigerator . Of course AC running . Reflex inside all windows except kitchen and bath windows .for a refrigerator that isn't supposed to work above 80's outside temp . Pretty happy with results . Pat
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