Removing batteries from E21 for the winter - Help please! - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community
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Old 09-10-2019, 12:55 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by islandr View Post
I too just recently had to alter the wooden bench/hatch cover to get batteries out. i too pondered on the dimensions that don't allow for easy battery removal
Send an email to ETI with your issue. Often they may make a slight design change to address the issue. Both Reace and the new owners have responded to design changes I've suggested.
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Old 09-10-2019, 06:49 AM   #22
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Send an email to ETI with your issue. Often they may make a slight design change to address the issue. Both Reace and the new owners have responded to design changes I've suggested.
Good policy....
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Old 09-10-2019, 08:47 AM   #23
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Batt box lid

Came on an odd thing this morning. I was under my dinette seat ready to change my Batt on/off switch and noticed the batt box lid off and lying next to the inverter.

I brought my batts with me to orientation for ETI to install (Trojan AGM's). It appears ETI put the lid on as there is sealant material where the cables exit the box on the case and the lid.

I have read other posts about the difficulty some have had removing the box lids because of the sealant. Mine has no sealant anywhere except where the cables exit the box.

I'm guessing ETI doesn't use it on the entire box with AGM's or maybe just neglected to seal the entire box.

I put the lid back on and I'm betting that sucker doesn't pop off again!
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Old 09-10-2019, 10:51 AM   #24
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We found that the solar did not keep our batteries charged enough in the winter as well. We can and have plugged our trailer in during winter. It's just in the driveway.
Seems to be a combination of things that gang up on the factory installed panels, things like panels not tilted, low/less sun hours, cold, snow, different shadows from neighborhood trees that move slower.
When we caught it, after about a month, the batteries were around 8 volts, I haven't noticed any lasting issues with the batteries.
I support your better safe than sorry approach.
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Old 09-10-2019, 12:18 PM   #25
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Since solar panels are wired directly to battery, how much trickle charge does the solar controller use when trailer is stored inside with no sunlight? My understanding is the solar controller is not effected by battery disconnect switch. thanks
It is of course depends on the brand and model, my victron charger's manual states a consumption of 30ma, this is 3,750 hours or 156 days until a 225ah battery setup is discharged to fifty percent, assuming no charge from the solar or other source.
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Old 09-10-2019, 12:46 PM   #26
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I installed a breaker on each side of the controller to perform any isolation we desire.
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Old 09-18-2019, 05:45 PM   #27
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Take loving care of your batteries. We ruined 2 new-ish 6-volts by leaving the refrig on DC while towing from Wyoming to Calif and back, twice. I guess the only way to confidently use the refrig on DC (i.e., not connected to shore power) is to park the trailer, disconnect power chord from tow vehicle, and rely on solar panel to keep the batteries charged enough to run interior lights and refrig. We run the refrig more on propane since the debacle. We're $700 poorer as a result.
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Old 09-18-2019, 06:42 PM   #28
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Wow, $700 for 2 six volt batteries? I only paid around $250 when I replaced mine, got them at Sams Club and yes, 12v refer operation can cause those issues. We only use propane while towing. I always thought 12v was like limp mode, just to keep the food from spoiling until you fixed the problem.
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Old 09-19-2019, 12:45 AM   #29
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I guess the only way to confidently use the refrig on DC (i.e., not connected to shore power) is to park the trailer, disconnect power chord from tow vehicle, and rely on solar panel to keep the batteries charged enough to run interior lights and refrig.

I don’t think you can fit enough solar panels on an Escape roof to keep up running your fridge on DC. DC operation requires a *lot* of juice, and anything less than an unusual whopper of a solar array won’t do it.

A Dometic 2355, for instance, uses 175W on 12V operation, per the owners manual.
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Old 09-19-2019, 06:53 AM   #30
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My fridge (Dometic 8551) draws 14 amps on 12V power. The 355W of solar panels on my trailer's roof would keep up when towing on a sunny day, but I had to remember to switch back to propane as soon as I parked the trailer again. The 12V system didn't seem to cool as well as propane, either. Eventually I gave up and switched back to propane when traveling and stationary.
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Old 09-19-2019, 06:54 AM   #31
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Sorry, my fridge is the RMD 8555, not 8551.
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Old 09-19-2019, 02:29 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by lloydjdorsey@gmail.com View Post
I guess the only way to confidently use the refrig on DC (i.e., not connected to shore power) is to park the trailer, disconnect power chord from tow vehicle, and rely on solar panel to keep the batteries charged enough to run interior lights and refrig.
Disconnecting power from the tow vehicle will only make the battery situation worse, by removing one source of charging current.
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Old 09-19-2019, 03:06 PM   #33
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Disconnecting power from the tow vehicle will only make the battery situation worse, by removing one source of charging current.
Must have the entire roof covered with panels
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Old 09-19-2019, 05:19 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by 75thRanger View Post
Must have the entire roof covered with panels
This has been well documented by many Escape owners.

The typical 'fridge in a E-21 or 5-TA requires around 14 Amps of battery power. To that, add a few more Amps for lights, fans, various outlets (usb, cigar, etc), pump, etc, and you are easily up to 16 or more Amps of drain - mostly over a 24 hour period. But your solar is only working effectively over a 10 hour period, more or less. The math doesn't add up.

And to make matters worse, many (but not all) tow vehicles will only supply a reduced voltage to the batteries thanks to the long wires between the alternator and the Escape batteries. I know my Toyota can only supply about 12.4 Volts to the back end of my E-21 where it is needed. So if I tow all day with the 'fridge on 12 V I will end up with half discharged batteries.

There are ways around this using voltage boosters but I personally just run the 'fridge on propane or 110 AC whenever possible (which includes driving in my case). (Propane; no, my cord is not 300 miles long.)

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Old 09-19-2019, 11:22 PM   #35
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If you do need to remove them, a battery lifting strap is a handy little tool, hooks onto the loops on top of the battery case so you can easily grab it and lift it out. You'll have to remove the first battery and then slide the other one over into the opening to lift it out.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You have such good ideas! I need to take you around with us camping.
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