Repairing the city water check valve - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 10-10-2013, 08:16 PM   #11
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Brian: yeah, I know my terminology was sloppy. I'm not familiar with plumbing terms. Thanks for the corrections.
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:37 PM   #12
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Great job explaining things, Doug.
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Old 10-10-2013, 09:13 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by daveandsandyclink View Post
I also had a similar problem with my city water connection. Mine came apart for some unknown reason preventing the water supply from entering. I too was told it was un-repairable but managed to get it to stay together using super glue to keep the spring retainer in place. The only other option seems to be to purchase and install a complete new water connection box.
I'm not sure how it could break in such a way as to prevent the water supply from entering, so I'm just guessing here, but...

The only moving part is the valve stem with associated spring and clip. I would guess that they're all similar. If you purchased the brass fitting (I saw one at a local RV shop) you can likely cannibalize it for the valve stem.
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Old 10-10-2013, 09:17 PM   #14
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Great job explaining things, Doug.
and to Brian B-P also...
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Old 11-16-2013, 02:46 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by daveandsandyclink View Post
I also had a similar problem with my city water connection. Mine came apart for some unknown reason preventing the water supply from entering. I too was told it was un-repairable but managed to get it to stay together using super glue to keep the spring retainer in place. The only other option seems to be to purchase and install a complete new water connection box.
I've had a problem with low pressure on city water with my Flagstaff. I'd like to fix it before putting it on the market, but replacing the whole unit isn't particularly appealing. We've just been dealing with a trickle at the faucet, or using the pump. Wonder if your super glue solution might work for me?

The pop-up trailer has been a lot of fun, but it has also been quite the money pit these last couple of years (winch replacement, broken lift cable, and wind damaged roof supports that had to be replaced).
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Old 11-16-2013, 02:50 PM   #16
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Is that valve really needed? Is it possible to remove and use the fresh water without it. It is a back flow preventer, correct. You can purchase them separately and attach to your hose.
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Old 11-16-2013, 02:53 PM   #17
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Is that valve really needed? Is it possible to remove and use the fresh water without it. It is a back flow preventer, correct. You can purchase them separately and attach to your hose.
That is a good question. Seems like that valve can be a real PITA.
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Old 11-16-2013, 03:59 PM   #18
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Is that valve really needed? Is it possible to remove and use the fresh water without it. It is a back flow preventer, correct.
You can use city water (from an outside hose) without it, but if you try to use your trailer's tank without this check valve, the pump will push your water outside through the inlet fitting.

Yes, it works as a backflow preventer, but that's not its primary purpose in a trailer with a tank and pump feeding the same faucets as the city water.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
You can purchase them separately and attach to your hose.
For using your tank and pump, I suppose you could leave a stub of hose with a check valve (or just any shutoff valve) on it hanging on the outside of the trailer... not my choice except as a temporary fix. Come to think of it, the check valve or a common inline shutoff valve could probably be screwed directly into the inlet.
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Old 11-16-2013, 04:09 PM   #19
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Yes, a good temporary fix and good to know, thanks Brian.
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Old 11-16-2013, 04:31 PM   #20
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What about just screwing the attached plastic cap in tightly enough? With the hose washer inside it should make a tight enough seal I would think.
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