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Old 03-31-2018, 11:57 PM   #1
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Arcata, California
Trailer: 2011 Escape 17B
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Replaced vents

Just a quick post to note that I spent about 3.5 hours today and replaced the two tank vents and the bathroom vent (non-fan, simple opener) on our 2011 17B.

I ordered the parts off Amazon. The order included two plumbing vents, a bathroom vent, ProFlex, and butyl tape. Links to the items are included at the bottom!

Removing the vents was less of a chore than I anticipated. I used a razor blade to expose the top of each screw and found that the sealant was still very flexible. I had feared that this job would entail chiseling out the old sealant. Instead, I simple exposed the top and used a square drive bit to take out the screws. Once the screws were out, I slowly slid a sharp putty knife under the vent and eventually they all came off.

Once they were off, I used a razor blade and a putty knife to remove the old material. With the area pretty clean, I used mineral spirits to completely remove the old sealant. I dried the area and got it ready for the new vent. I didn't want to re-use the old screws because they had sealant on them and I didn't want to run the risk of having that material not adhere to the new ProFlex. So, I invested $4 and bought a box of 100 screws.

I fitted the vents to the appropriate sites and used a pencil to mark the exact location of a couple screw holes so that they would line up. All of the existing holes lined up with the new vents, so that was a huge relief.

I applied butyl tape to the base of each vent and ran a couple screws through the tape so that I could easily align them with the existing holes. Then I lightly screwed in the aligning screws so everything was in place. I pressed the vent on with as much forces as I could reasonably and safely apply (I was fearful of cracks; the reason this whole project started). Now that I had the vents in place, I added all the other screws and gently secured the vents in place.

With the vents in place, it was time for ProFlex. I applied the ProFlex to the perimeters first and then to each screw head.

This was a great little project and if nothing else, it gave me the knowledge that it would be a pretty simple job to replace any vent on the trailer in the future. That alone was worth the price of admission.

I'll be adding DIY videos to my YouTube Channel in the future!
Visit, like, subscribe, and comment at this link!

Don't Trade Years of Your Life for a Few Bucks.

Pro Flex

Butyl Tape


Heng roof vent


Plumbing vents
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Old 04-01-2018, 05:08 AM   #2
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Nice job and thanks for the pictures....
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Old 04-01-2018, 05:23 AM   #3
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I thought the roof fixtures used Dicor Lap Sealant as opposed to Proflex?

I did notice the bathroom vent is Proflex on mine, don't know why.
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Old 04-01-2018, 05:36 AM   #4
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I think they are interchangeable..
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Old 04-01-2018, 12:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
I thought the roof fixtures used Dicor Lap Sealant as opposed to Proflex?

I did notice the bathroom vent is Proflex on mine, don't know why.
I am not aware of that. Everything I've read indicated ProFlex as the stuff tinusem. If it doesn't hold up I'll definitely consider dicor
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Old 04-01-2018, 12:37 PM   #6
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Sealing under a flange (such as the plumbing vent base), filling a crack or joint, and forming a membrane over a joint (something done only in RVs, and no other type of vehicle) are different jobs with different products. I can't tell from the Pro Flex® RV Flexible Sealant description what it is really for, but my guess is crack/joint filling; Dicor Lap Sealant is mostly for membrane formation... and is intended for "rubber" (EPDM and TPO) roof membranes, although it is supposed to bond to fiberglass.

Any RV sealant should stand up to weather exposure, and both of these (Pro Flex and Dicor Lap Sealant) should stay flexible.
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