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Old 05-10-2017, 07:22 PM   #1
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Replacement Aluminum Wheel Rim

Had a flat on the highway, the only damage, other then to the wallet, was the rim. Does anyone know the manufacturer of the aluminum rims?
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Old 05-10-2017, 07:33 PM   #2
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use your spare and I'll bring you home a new one from the rally if you like, contact ETI
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Old 05-10-2017, 07:38 PM   #3
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Bob, mine are Hi-Spec, 5 lug. I think they are available at E-trailer and a few other sites for around $75-80 a piece.

Edit: found them on recstuff.com. Might want to verify that they're the 4.5 on 5 and not the 5 on 5.

http://recstuff.com/trailer-wheels/a...trailer-wheel/

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Old 05-10-2017, 07:59 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
use your spare and I'll bring you home a new one from the rally if you like, contact ETI
Thanks for the offer Jim, I had checked with ETI but they are $200+, only come with the tire, which I don't need.

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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Bob, mine are Hi-Spec, 5 lug. I think they are available at E-trailer and a few other sites for around $75-80 a piece.

Edit: found them on recstuff.com. Might want to verify that they're the 4.5 on 5 and not the 5 on 5.

15X6 5-Lug on 4.5" Aluminum Series 03 Trailer Wheel - 356545

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Excellent, Thanks.
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Old 05-10-2017, 08:55 PM   #5
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... found them on recstuff.com. Might want to verify that they're the 4.5 on 5 and not the 5 on 5.

15X6 5-Lug on 4.5" Aluminum Series 03 Trailer Wheel - 356545
The Escape wheels are 5 on 4.5", definitely not 5 on 5". That 5 on 5" pattern is very strange for trailers; it's one of four available bolt circle diameters for 5-bolt hubs of Torflex #10, and several automotive brands have used it, but it would be hard to find anyone using it on a trailer... maybe if they were matching the trailer to a Jeep Wrangler or old GM truck so they can share wheels.
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Old 05-10-2017, 08:57 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
The Escape wheels are 5 on 4.5", definitely not 5 on 5". That 5 on 5" pattern is very strange for trailers; it's one of four available bolt circle diameters for 5-bolt hubs of Torflex #10, and several automotive brands have used it, but it would be hard to find anyone using it on a trailer... maybe if they were matching the trailer to a Jeep Wrangler or old GM truck so they can share wheels.
Good to know. Looks like that's the one then. Not a bad price.

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Old 05-10-2017, 09:38 PM   #7
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Here's the same rim at etrailer just for reference:
http://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-Wh...T/AM22627.html

Unless they are gouging you on shipping that price that rbryan4 found at recstuff will probably be hard to beat.
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Old 05-11-2017, 01:27 AM   #8
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Here's the same rim at etrailer just for reference:
http://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-Wh...T/AM22627.html

Unless they are gouging you on shipping that price that rbryan4 found at recstuff will probably be hard to beat.
UPS Ground shipping is $17.80 per wheel to my area. Assuming it's similar in other states, the net price per wheel is about $94.

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Old 05-11-2017, 06:54 AM   #9
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About the same on Amazon.
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Old 05-11-2017, 08:49 AM   #10
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About the same on Amazon.
Good find.

www.amazon.com/Aluminum-HiSpec-Trailer-Wheel-Capacity/dp/B008ODSC2S/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494506893&sr= 1-2&refinements=p_4%3AHWT+HiSpec+Wheel+and+Tire
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Old 05-11-2017, 01:20 PM   #11
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considering aluminum wheel option for trailer... for those who have had aluminum rims and with other variables the same...when getting a flat is damaging the aluminum wheel more likely versus having a flat on the steel rim (perhaps stronger?) ?
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Old 05-11-2017, 01:58 PM   #12
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considering aluminum wheel option for trailer... for those who have had aluminum rims and with other variables the same...when getting a flat is damaging the aluminum wheel more likely versus having a flat on the steel rim (perhaps stronger?) ?
I've never had a flat on on RV (of any kind or brand), but based on my motorsports experience I would expect a typical (street-use, not ultra-lightweight) aluminum alloy wheel to survive much better than a typical steel wheel.

I have heard of people worrying that an alloy wheel will crack and break because it is brittle, but in fact the ones I have seen run into potholes and curbs only bend. In the same conditions, steel wheels bend more. Neither is easy to straighten. Some of the concern about alloy wheels is probably based on wheels made decades ago, of different alloys and by different methods.

If the tire blows out and you hit a bump with no working tire, there's a good chance that a wheel of either material will need to be replaced. I've never had to replace a wheel due to a tire failure, but I haven't had enough tire failures (on any vehicle, trailer or not) to be a useful sample.
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Old 05-11-2017, 02:27 PM   #13
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thanks for the info Brian... no experience with a rolling flat on the trucks or the corvette with its supposedly "run flat" tires..knocking on wood.
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Old 05-11-2017, 03:07 PM   #14
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... no experience with a rolling flat on the trucks or the corvette with its supposedly "run flat" tires..
If the tire just deflates - the most common scenario for cars - the run-flat tire will do a much better job of protecting the wheel; that's what it is designed to do. If it's a "blow out" - which I've never seen on a car but is often reported with trailers - there may not be enough of the sidewall left to matter. I have yet to be stuck with run-flats on anything.
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Old 05-11-2017, 03:32 PM   #15
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I had a flat on my curb side front axle on my 21' Escape. I had been riding on it for awhile because the lugs were getting loose and the nail was worn down. I had 4 aluminum wheels and a steel spare. I put the spare on and continued to my destination. I returned home and purchased 4 new tires on the assumption that I overloaded the rear curb tire and could not replace one side without the other. On the new Escape I got a aluminum spare so in the event of flat, only one tire will need replacing as the 4 in use will match and will watch the tires more closely.
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Old 05-11-2017, 04:33 PM   #16
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got another question if its ok ...concerning aluminum rims and perhaps steel rims

have had multiple vehicles with aluminum rims.... can only remember one flat in many years and that was not a rolling flat. With the exception of rotating tires at recommended intervals there never seemed to be any other need to tighten the lugs.. why does there seem to be a need to be checking and tightening lug nuts on trailers so often or is it only the first few miles/months?
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Old 05-11-2017, 04:48 PM   #17
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Good questions...thank you for asking them. I also wonder about rotating tires. When I was working and had a company car, our national fleet guidelines included a provision that strongly opposed rotating tires on our cars. Ideas about that?
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Old 05-11-2017, 05:32 PM   #18
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got another question if its ok ...concerning aluminum rims and perhaps steel rims

have had multiple vehicles with aluminum rims.... can only remember one flat in many years and that was not a rolling flat. With the exception of rotating tires at recommended intervals there never seemed to be any other need to tighten the lugs.. why does there seem to be a need to be checking and tightening lug nuts on trailers so often or is it only the first few miles/months?
Modern cars and trucks have hub-centric wheels which means that that the centre bore (hole) of the wheel closely fits over a protruding lip on the hub, so even before you start to install the nuts, the wheel is properly centred. It can be a bit off in rotation, but installing the nuts finishes the centering on the first try.

Trailers usually have lug-centric wheels, which means that the hub centre is not precisely machined and the centre bore of the wheel clears it with room to spare - nothing locates the wheel on-centre with the hub other than the tapered seats of the nuts. When the nuts are installed, they usually get tight while not yet fully seated, so the wheel is slightly off-centre. With the weight of the vehicle and rotation, the wheel shifts and so comes a bit loose. When the nuts are re-torqued, the wheel gets closer to centred. It may take a couple rounds of this to get the wheel fully centred and so no longer coming loose... but then the nuts should stay tight.

Even with lug-centric wheels, if the wheel is centred carefully at installation, so the nuts are fully seated, it should only take one round - I never had loosening problems with cars using non-standard wheels that didn't hub-centre, but I mounted them a lot more carefully than the average person slamming nuts on wheel studs. The other fix is straight-shank nuts (only in alloy wheels, and sometimes called "mag seat") which accurately locate the wheel without depending on a tapered seat; they use a straight-sided hole in the wheel that the nut fits well, a flat seat, and a captive washer. I assume that's why Toyota traditionally used straight-shank nuts with alloys - their trucks were lug-centric (my Sienna is hub-centric, but still came with wheels that use straight-shank nuts).

I've read lots of statements about the relevance of the wheel material, with theories about differential thermal expansion rates and wheel thickness - and it makes some sense - but every car on the road with aluminum alloy wheels (which means most cars now) demonstrates that this is not a significant issue.
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Old 05-11-2017, 05:51 PM   #19
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When I was working and had a company car, our national fleet guidelines included a provision that strongly opposed rotating tires on our cars. Ideas about that?
My guesses:
  • fear of people messing up, such as by putting directional tires on the wrong side, or not tightening nuts properly
  • lack of care about tire life, if the company only kept cars for a couple of years
  • a manager in the fleet operations that was working on some outdated for just incorrect personal knowledge
  • a policy of replacing all four tires when any one of them wore out... perhaps to pad the pocket of a manager with a "special" deal with the tire supplier
.... but those are just guesses!

Most cars need the tires rotated in position to even out wear for maximum tire life, because they wear the tires unevenly (at least front-to-back). A properly set up trailer is less likely to wear tires unevenly, and tire wear (rather than failure or age) is often less of a factor with trailer tire life than with car tire life.
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Old 05-11-2017, 07:15 PM   #20
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Great info from Brian. Page 59 of the Escape Owner's Manual may help too. It appears the biggest concern with a retorque is within the first 50 miles of travel.

http://escapetrailer.com/wp-content/...nersManual.pdf
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