Replacing Gas Line to Cooktop

[rbryan4]

I want to install the Dickinson Marine Cooktop, which will require replacing the copper LP supply line so it can reach the fitting location on the new stove. But, I don't know how to go about replacing the line. Where does it connect downstream and how is it accessed?

[PGDriver]

Robert just a guess but I would look under your trailer as most gas connections are on the outside.
Cheers
Doug

[gbaglo]

A gas-fitter would be able to do it.
At ETI they bring a licensed gas-fitter in to do modifications such as that.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by PGDriver

Robert just a guess but I would look under your trailer as most gas connections are on the outside.
Cheers
Doug

I thought so too Doug, but I've never looked. I'll have some time to track it down next week (I'm in Maryland on a business trip at the moment) but was looking for specifics from those who've done similar. Showed the wife a photo of the Dickinson Cooktop a couple of weeks ago. Big mistake...

[Brian B-P]

Escape seems to like to use copper line, protected by a plastic cover like that usually used for wiring harnesses - that might make it easier to spot underneath.

[Ron in BC]

The gas line runs from the front down the inside of the frame on the D. S. The first vertical tee goes up to the furnace, the next tee, for the cook top, goes to the the P. S. behind the rear axle and through the floor. It is located in the rear front corner of the kitchen cabinet. It goes up the corner, along the top corner to the mid-point of the stove and into the stove.

It should be usable for another range but if not a short ready made flexible line is likely available from a gas dealer if you don't want to make up your own.

If the replacement range requires a larger line then it would have to run from the tee in the main line.

Ron

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

If the replacement range requires a larger line then it would have to run from the tee in the main line.

Is it all 3/8" line, from end of the regulator's outlet hose to the fitting at each appliance?

For the Dickinson, there shouldn't be a size issue (although there would be for some other brands intended for residential use), but it looks like a new line (or extension if you're willing to do that) will be required:

Originally Posted by Chris R

The existing copper pipe is bent thru several 90s to connect to the cooktop stove thru a hole on the left side at the back. The Dickinson connection is at the back right side, therefore the stock pipe will not fit or reach even if it was re-bent. A new 3/8 pipe is needed. The connection on the Dickinson is standard 3/8 gas flare, same as the stock cooktop. As mentioned, the new pipe must be connected outside the living area of the trailer, so connecting it where the original was works well.

(from Want A Better Cook Top)

[currinh]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

I want to install the Dickinson Marine Cooktop, which will require replacing the copper LP supply line so it can reach the fitting location on the new stove. But, I don't know how to go about replacing the line. Where does it connect downstream and how is it accessed?

We decided to replace our two burner stove with an Atwood three burner slide in cooktop. It is larger than the two burner but is flat on top so "stuff" can be set there. I did make a stove cover for the two burner which helped, but the two burner is cheaply built. I'm in the middle of this having started the cut out today.

The gas line, in our 2011 19, comes up the left side (to front of trailer) of the kitchen cabinet. But our stove and sink are reversed. Yours probably comes up on the right (to the back of the trailer) beside or behind the drawers. If you pull the existing stove and drawers you should be able to easily access it.

I've cut the existing gas line inside the cabinet and plan to extend it. I'll put on a union flare fitting and extended the gas line long enough to reach the stove. I like flared fitting better than using ferruled compression fittings. I've had better luck with the flared. I'm convinced this is much much easier than replacing the whole gas line.

If you do as I am you'll need a flare union, two flare nuts to fit the union, and 3-4' of soft copper tubing. Check to see what fittings are needed to connect the stove to the line. I'm not sure what size the existing line is, I plan to take the cut off piece to the store and ask for that size tube and fittings.

You'll need a few specialty tools, but tools are always good to have around. You need a tube cutter (little ones work fine and better fit in the tool box), a flaring tool and likely a tube bending spring set. It's real easy to kink this copper tube without a bending spring. Lots of Internet sites showing how to use these tools.

Hook it up, tighten the fittings, and turn on the gas. Squirt the joints (union and at stove) with soapy water. If there are any bubbles there is a leak, tighten a little more and re-squirt. The process isn't difficult. Let me know if you have any questions.

I'll post some pictures of my retrofit when it's done. I'll take pictures of the gas line and post at that time, likely in a week or two. I'm also putting in a new faucet and SS sink, along with repairing the drawers. Might even put in soft close drawer rails. :-)

[currinh]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Is it all 3/8" line, from end of the regulator's outlet hose to the fitting at each appliance?

For the Dickinson, there shouldn't be a size issue (although there would be for some other brands intended for residential use), but it looks like a new line (or extension if you're willing to do that) will be required:

(from Want A Better Cook Top)

Putting a fitting inside the cabinet may not be to code, I don't know. There is a flare fitting at the stove, inside the cabinet, so I can't see that a union to extend the tube is any worse. I haven't had a problem with previous installations.

I found these "standards" and don't see a ban on internal joints. It does say they need to be accessible for future leak testing. The line to the stove should be accessible via pulling the drawers out.

[rbryan4]

Great stuff. Chris R also messaged me with additional info. I have what I need, so thanks all. Wife will be thrilled, and I get to sweat!

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by currinh

Putting a fitting inside the cabinet may not be to code, I don't know. There is a flare fitting at the stove, inside the cabinet, so I can't see that a union to extend the tube is any worse. I haven't had a problem with previous installations.

I agree with the logic. My Boler has shutoff valves for each appliance line in the interior (in cabinets), which functionally makes sense but adds two connections and a valve seal per line. I'm sure the intention is to minimize connections, and a union to avoid running a new line might not be justifiable.

Originally Posted by currinh

I found these "standards" and don't see a ban on internal joints. It does say they need to be accessible for future leak testing. The line to the stove should be accessible via pulling the drawers out.

That makes sense, but the linked page is just an outline - one would need to check NFPA 1192 (or a CSA equivalent in Canada), but you need to register for access, or buy it, or find it in a library.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by currinh

I've cut the existing gas line inside the cabinet and plan to extend it. I'll put on a union flare fitting and extended the gas line long enough to reach the stove. I like flared fitting better than using ferruled compression fittings. I've had better luck with the flared.

This is no better than rumour, but I have often heard that compression fittings on copper are not "allowed" (by whatever code, presumably NFPA 54/ANSI. Z223.1 National Fuel Gas Code and some Canadian equivalent) for propane anyway. Compression fittings make more sense for more rigid tubing, rather than the soft copper stuff that you need to use to make the bends.

Originally Posted by currinh

I'm not sure what size the existing line is, I plan to take the cut off piece to the store and ask for that size tube and fittings.

The fittings I've encountered in RVs are 3/8", but certainly this check makes sense.