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Old 10-12-2017, 03:33 PM   #1
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Replacing the LP Auto-switchover Regulator

We're having furnace problems (fan runs, no ignition). ETI technician replaced sail switch, no joy, then replaced main circuit board, and the furnace worked - for one day. Then, back to square one.

So... some say a faulty pressure regulator can cause this symptom, and it's inexpensive to swap it out to see what happens. I will do it! But... someone else told me there is a "better" brand of pressure regulator than the standard Camco.

Does anyone have a recommendation for brand of auto-switchover pressure regulator?

Thanks!
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Old 10-12-2017, 03:40 PM   #2
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The Marshall Excelsior MEGR-253 fit the same mounting as the original. Get some yellow Teflon tape.

Edit: went ahead and bought their hoses too.
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Old 10-12-2017, 03:45 PM   #3
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Thanks, Ross!
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Old 10-12-2017, 04:07 PM   #4
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You don't say which furnace you have.

Ours had to be reset immediately at pick-up by a tech and we were told that the reset button was behind the grill. You would not have our furnace but maybe others have the same kind of reset.
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Old 10-12-2017, 06:09 PM   #5
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Ours is the "classic" Atwood furnace from 2014 and earlier. Yes, it does have a reset button behind the grille, and we have had to use it between attempts. It has not solved the problem.

Maybe a different pressure regulator will make the furnace happier; if not, I'll have a spare regulator for when the original croaks, if it ever does. Thanks!
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Old 10-12-2017, 06:20 PM   #6
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I would do some more troubleshooting on the furnace before buying a new regulator, especially if you aren't having trouble with other gas appliances (I am thinking the fridge!).

On my 8012 model furnace (2014 Escape), the circuit board has a red fault light which will indicate if the trouble is air/fan related, or a propane problem. I would guess a newer furnace should also have fault codes. I can't recall if the codes are listed on the board or not, if not, then google it. I recall one flash meant fan/air fault when my sail switch stopped working. I might have had to take out some screws on the circuit board to read the codes.

If the fault is for gas, then the next step is to try the regulator swap.
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Old 10-12-2017, 06:38 PM   #7
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The red LED (single blink, 3 second interval) we are getting says air flow or limit switch problem. But ETI replaced the sail switch and it didn't fix the problem.

Limit switch (as I understand it, something that only kicks in with overheating problems) doesn't seem right -- but maybe it is. Maybe the limit switch is defective. ETI didn't try this, as far as I know.

I'm not sure if I'm up to pulling out the furnace to try it myself with my voltmeter... but maybe I am. I will look into it.

Thanks for all these helpful comments!
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Old 10-12-2017, 06:57 PM   #8
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You might be able to access the limit switch without pulling the furnace. It might be at the front of the combustion chamber.
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:51 PM   #9
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Kirk, you were right (I'm pretty sure). Found this, seems to match all the descriptors / pix I can find for the limit switch. So I tested it across the terminals and the switch is... closed -- meaning it is functioning properly. Had I found it open I could have smiled and just replaced the limit switch.

So I have a new sail switch, just installed, and the limit switch works fine, yet I still get that "limit switch / airflow problems" fault code. Checked for air blockages or clogs, didn't find anything obvious.

Onward, I guess. Thanks for the info! At least I know how to check limit switch in the future.
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Old 10-13-2017, 01:02 PM   #10
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I replaced the sail switch on this model and found it very easy to brush against the new switch in such a manner that it did not swing freely. I am pretty good at pulling the furnace with two practice sessions.
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Old 10-13-2017, 01:49 PM   #11
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Tried the blast-of-air solution, from inside and out -- still no joy. Will try regulator swap -- long shot, I know -- and then board swap -- and finally will pull the furnace and swap the sail switch.

My back hurts just thinking about it...
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Old 10-13-2017, 02:14 PM   #12
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Fickle Sail Switches

Quote:
Originally Posted by drpaddle View Post
Tried the blast-of-air solution, from inside and out -- still no joy. Will try regulator swap -- long shot, I know -- and then board swap -- and finally will pull the furnace and swap the sail switch.

My back hurts just thinking about it...
After recently replacing the sail switch on our Everest 8012 our furnace is up and running. But when I checked the continuity of the "bad" switch, it checked out fine with the multimeter. Scott
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Old 10-13-2017, 03:46 PM   #13
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Did some more multimeter testing and staring at wiring diagram in the furnace. Able to determine with confidence that there's 12v going into the sail switch and almost nothing coming back. That means, I guess, darn it, I'm going to order a sail switch and have some fun. Thanks to you all for your help!
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Old 10-28-2017, 07:09 PM   #14
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Somewhere I learned that the igniter board single blink code -- the one that means airflow issues -- will show up in either of two situations: sail switch doesn't close (clog, bad airflow, defective switch), OR sail switch doesn't open fully when the furnace shuts down and the airflow stops.

Others here have mentioned this can happen if the sail isn't free to move around like a happy bird.

Thanks to guidance from you folks, I pulled the furnace today and found the sail switch -- recently replaced by ETI -- was jammed against bottom of the squirrel cage area. I removed it and noticed the sail drooped downward when it ought not to.

I straightened it, but I thought gravity and the rolling earthquake effect might pull it down again, re-creating the problem. So I just replaced the sail switch with the new one I had bought; it seemed a little sturdier and less likely to droop.

Put it all back together (except a last half-inch of getting it flush with the dinette wall again) and IT WORKS! I am so pleased I don't have to take it somewhere else.

We'll get that last half-inch solved tomorrow when we're fresh. Thanks to all of you (and to those posting in other furnace-related threads) for your help and encouragement.

Oh, and we have a new regulator, too -- the original is now a backup that goes into the spare parts cabinet in the garage.
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Old 10-28-2017, 10:08 PM   #15
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Congratulations Doug! That job doesn't sound easy which is why keep that switch on board as a spare hoping I won't need it.
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Old 10-28-2017, 10:27 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drpaddle View Post
Somewhere I learned that the igniter board single blink code -- the one that means airflow issues -- will show up in either of two situations: sail switch doesn't close (clog, bad airflow, defective switch), OR sail switch doesn't open fully when the furnace shuts down and the airflow stops.

Others here have mentioned this can happen if the sail isn't free to move around like a happy bird.

Thanks to guidance from you folks, I pulled the furnace today and found the sail switch -- recently replaced by ETI -- was jammed against bottom of the squirrel cage area. I removed it and noticed the sail drooped downward when it ought not to.

I straightened it, but I thought gravity and the rolling earthquake effect might pull it down again, re-creating the problem. So I just replaced the sail switch with the new one I had bought; it seemed a little sturdier and less likely to droop.

Put it all back together (except a last half-inch of getting it flush with the dinette wall again) and IT WORKS! I am so pleased I don't have to take it somewhere else.

We'll get that last half-inch solved tomorrow when we're fresh. Thanks to all of you (and to those posting in other furnace-related threads) for your help and encouragement.

Oh, and we have a new regulator, too -- the original is now a backup that goes into the spare parts cabinet in the garage.
Good going!
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Old 10-29-2017, 02:08 AM   #17
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Glad you got your problem resolved! Feels better when you fix it yourself.
Just take it slow and easy on the last half inch. Keep pressure on the vent from the outside so those rivets don't give out. Actually, the secret is just finding the right cuss word.

Having spare parts on hand never hurts.
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Old 10-29-2017, 11:38 AM   #18
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Great that your up a running. I was kind of intimidated when I pulled the furnace, worried about aligning the exhaust tube when reinstalling, but everything went smoothly. Now I have two spares and know that I can replace that switch on the road if needed. Scott

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Old 10-29-2017, 01:05 PM   #19
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The fix apparently was a mirage.

Well I guess I celebrated too soon. Went out this morning and got that last half-inch, buttoned everything up and... furnace won't light. Same single-flash red light.

Took it all apart. Sail switch looked fine. Put all together again and re-tested. No go.

Took it all apart again and tried the other sail switch. No go.

Out of ideas. Doubt I have two bad sail switches. Limit switch tests okay. Reluctant to buy another igniter board because I did that already and the fix (done by ETI) only lasted a day. Might have to take it to a shop... there's an Atwood "certified service center" about 35 minutes' drive from here.

Hate it that I can't solve this.
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Old 10-29-2017, 02:16 PM   #20
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Are you sure that the fan motor is coming up to full speed ?
If the motor bushings are dry (Lack Lubrication ) then the motor shaft maybe binding and not turning fast enough to move enough air and trigger the sail switch.
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