Replacing toilet flush valve !?!?!? - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 05-04-2014, 07:38 PM   #11
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Hard to tell....the flush valve is near the top back of the toilet but if it is a small leak it could drip down and maybe come out at the base... Maybe it is the seal (closet flange seal) that the toilet sits on to connect to the black water tank...it might dry out and leak until it absorbs some moisture....just guessing here.

If you talk to Reace ask him how to disconnect the water supply line from the valve in order to get the toilet out!!?!?!
I will do that. I suppose I will need to figure that out too if I need to reseat the toilet. I have already put the water shutoff on my to do list.
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:22 AM   #12
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When I had to do the same thing, I cut the water line right behind the bath wall, and pulled the toilet out with the flush valve still connected. I just crimped a connector in the water line when I put it back in. Not sure if that is an option on other trailers.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:29 AM   #13
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When I had to do the same thing, I cut the water line right behind the bath wall, and pulled the toilet out with the flush valve still connected. I just crimped a connector in the water line when I put it back in. Not sure if that is an option on other trailers.
I'm thinking that is what we may end up doing too....
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:40 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
When I had to do the same thing, I cut the water line right behind the bath wall, and pulled the toilet out with the flush valve still connected. I just crimped a connector in the water line when I put it back in. Not sure if that is an option on other trailers.
This is the solution. The problem developes because ETI connects the valve first and then makes the connection BEHIND the shower wall before installing the cabinetry. When I had the problem last August ETI was concerned they were going to have to remove cabinetry until I suggested cutting and replacing the rigid PEX with flexible like what is around the pump. That is what they did and now supposedly use flex behind the toilet in new builds so it can be moved out enough from the wall to reach the disconnect nut. I will take a picture of mine and post.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:53 AM   #15
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This is the solution. The problem developes because ETI connects the valve first and then makes the connection BEHIND the shower wall before installing the cabinetry. When I had the problem last August ETI was concerned they were going to have to remove cabinetry until I suggested cutting and replacing the rigid PEX with flexible like what is around the pump. That is what they did and now supposedly use flex behind the toilet in new builds so it can be moved out enough from the wall to reach the disconnect nut. I will take a picture of mine and post.

Thanks...that will be helpful!!
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:55 AM   #16
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It might come to that.....I have an extension tube for the toilet water supply on order just in case it could be useful....
Amazon.com: Thetford (28962) Waterline Exterior Kit: Automotive

(It says Waterline Exterior Kit but it should say 'Extension' ... Amazon typo)
The problem might be with this kit is that the only threaded part is to the valve. The rest are PEX connectors applied with a special tool. If you add to the water line you will need PEX and PEX connectors or a conversion threaded part. Also the luxury of a shut off valve is not possible for 15's and 17's
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:19 AM   #17
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The problem might be with this kit is that the only threaded part is to the valve. The rest are PEX connectors applied with a special tool. If you add to the water line you will need PEX and PEX connectors or a conversion threaded part. Also the luxury of a shut off valve is not possible for 15's and 17's
I think we'll have to wait for the kit to arrive to see if it can be made to work...somehow.
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:58 AM   #18
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The problem might be with this kit is that the only threaded part is to the valve. The rest are PEX connectors applied with a special tool. If you add to the water line you will need PEX and PEX connectors or a conversion threaded part. Also the luxury of a shut off valve is not possible for 15's and 17's
I added a shut off valve in my 17B. It is in the front driver's side storage area under the dinette seat:
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:11 PM   #19
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I added a shut off valve in my 17B. It is in the front driver's side storage area under the dinette seat:
Then that leaves the 15. I will have to see if there is a place.
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:53 PM   #20
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Ok here is a picture looking up from where supply line comes in. Notice that the flex is attached to an elbow going down and then to another elbow and another piece of flex going up to the valve connection. They could not do one piece and confine it to the space, hence the two pieces. Look at "toilet leak" on old posting to see rigid PEX.
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