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Old 05-05-2014, 07:59 PM   #21
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Thanks for the pic Tim. Did you bring your trailer in to get it fixed? Since our leak started on our trip home last fall, I would think ETI would reimburse me. I am still waiting for a call back.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:49 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrn56 View Post
Thanks for the pic Tim. Did you bring your trailer in to get it fixed? Since our leak started on our trip home last fall, I would think ETI would reimburse me. I am still waiting for a call back.
I hauled it up to ETI because I hadn't yet figured out how to fix it. Valve should be covered by Thetford. I think ETI could send you the parts you need for the mod.
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:12 PM   #23
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How we fixed our toilet

Well, we finally fixed our toilet. There had been a leak of unknown origin the first time we turned on water this Spring. We suspect the flush valve had a small amount of water in it over the winter which froze and caused a crack somewhere. Luckily, we had already installed a toilet water shutoff valve (having learned from experience on a previous Scamp!) so we could continue to use the trailer and toilet by flushing from a jug of water.
Our dilemma was that there was no room behind the toilet to reach the connector to the flush valve and remove the toilet for the repairs. The extremely "close to the wall" installation of the toilet is well documented on this forum and a major headache when repairs are needed!

After lots of head scratching, our solution boiled down to the following:
1) Cut through the gobs of silicone on the bathroom wall where the pex water supply line comes into the bathroom.
2) Unscrew the bolts holding the toilet onto the floor.
3) Cut the pex water supply line inside the drivers side hatch very close to the elbow using a pex cutter for a clean straight cut.
4) Lift and twist the toilet off the base, pulling the pex supply line remnant through the wall.
5) Replace the flush valve and flange.
6) Inside the hatch, cut off the open ended elbow left after the first cut and replace it with a Sharkbite push fit elbow. (This was originally the same kind of elbow you see in the foreground of the photo.)
7) Put the toilet back in place, threading the pex supply line remnant back into the hatch and connect the pex to the other end of the Sharkbite elbow.
Voila!
The beauty of this fix is that the Sharkbite elbow can be easily removed with their little disconnect tool in case the valve needs to be replaced again or the toilet needs to be removed for whatever reason.
We will probably not re-silicone the hole in the wall where the pex supply line comes in...maybe we'll stuff it with some non water absorbing material and put duct tape over it to prevent water getting into the wall. We rarely use the shower so this is not a priority.

SharkBite 1/2 in. Brass 90-Degree Push-Fit Elbow
SharkBite 1/2 in. Brass 90-Degree Push-Fit Elbow-U248LFA at The Home Depot

SharkBite 1/2 in. Disconnect Clip
SharkBite 1/2 in. Disconnect Clip-U710A at The Home Depot
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Shutoff Valve and Sharkbite elbow.jpg (191.5 KB, 55 views)
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:14 PM   #24
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We know that ETI has since changed the pex in the toilet supply line inside the trailer to a flexible pex but for everyone who has the existing solid pex, this could be a solution.
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:25 PM   #25
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Nice work! Hope I never have to do it.
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Old 09-22-2015, 07:49 PM   #26
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Toilet water valve replacement in 17B

In the middle of a great trip to Yellowstone our toilet valve started spraying the back bathroom wall. Since we don't (yet) have a shut off valve we couldn't use the pump or connect to city water. Not critical to a good trip but it did get old.
So before I remove the toilet and replace the valve is there anything I should know before I dive in? I'm assuming it's like a household toilet except there is a flange instead of a wax ring. I can get to the supply line nut with my small hands but getting an exact fit during the replacement may be a pain. Why didn't they use flexible supply lines?
Thanks to Tim and Jon for the pics of shut off valve and flexible supply lines!

Eric
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:26 PM   #27
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Unless you can get your hand back there to reconnect you might want to consider cutting off the supply line on the other side of the bathroom wall and removing the toilet with the supply line still connected. Then use the place where you cut the supply line as the location for your shutoff valve....see earlier posts....
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Old 09-22-2015, 09:16 PM   #28
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Eric,
On my 2005 17 B I was able to replace my flush valve without having to remove the toilet. Took less than 30 minutes and was pretty easy if you study the removal instructions closely first.
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Old 09-22-2015, 10:38 PM   #29
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Thanks, guys. I will look into both possibilities tomorrow. I did take the seat off to see if I could access the valve but it didn't look possible. I didn't want to get into it too much while on the road, far from any repair shops (just in case I screwed up!). If I can't reconnect I will go the behind the wall. thanks!
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:52 PM   #30
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I went behind the wall. Why take a chance?
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File Type: jpg ToilVal3.jpg (150.4 KB, 32 views)
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